I wanted this to start on the lower of the two ledges at bottom of the arete. It ended up being to scrunchy for me. Alternatively,  I started full sit with my left hand on the lower ledge and right on the right side of the upper ledge. Pull up and follow the arete up and left until you can rock onto the face and top out on the ledge. Continue up the boulder to the top.

Sifting the Sands

Prospectors Booty

Fools Gold

Gold Rush

Thrash Box

Gold Digger

Sluice Box

Don’t Lose Touch

Aurum

Thrash Unreal

Easiest climb on the boulder. Start low under the boulder beneath the big roof. Left hand on a sloper, right on a cool bulge at the same height. Make a couple hard moves in the beginning then top out straight up on huge jugs. Use a really big pocket out left at the lip of the roof to access the top jug. Once on the ledge I would suggest topping out the boulder instead of trying to drop off. Really fun! 

Sit start on two crimps in the crack at the top of the bulge. Make fun moves left until you the reach the arete. Figure out how to turn the corner and work the arete to the lip. Once on the lip surf up left to the big point and top out. Fun, varied climbing. 

This start shares the same starting holds as FG. Pull off and go left to a great slot/edge. Move right hand up and position to make a long reach left to a crimp rail low on the boulder. Find some scrunchy feet and fall into a really cool rail on the left side of the corner found in the middle of the boulder. Top out straight up using a couple crimps and a two finger pocket. Top out the boulder.

Start on Thrash Unreal and finish on Sluice Box

 Stand start on the under cling in the middle of the over hanging face on the left side of the boulder. Climb up and left using crimps and pockets to the right side on the big ledge. Mantle and catch your breath, and get ready for the 5.7 slab to the top.

A good warm up. Sit start on two incut rails. Make a move straight up to a big, solid flake. Find a sequence that works and top out straight up using crimps. Fun!

The only problem I rehearsed a couple times on top rope. Sit start on the right side of the small roof. Make easy roof moves to a couple of jugs on the face. Pull up onto the nearly vertical slab. Once established, make two or three sketchy moves on the slab using small quartz holds until you hit the lip of the ledge. Very Scary! Once on the ledge either drop off to the right if you have a spotter or make some heady 5.7 moves up the short head wall to the top of the boulder.

Sit start with left foot under the roof and right foot out on the face. Climb straight up using a crystal sloper/crimp. A few more crimps lead to a juggy lip and an exciting top out on the ledge. Climb exposed 5.7 to the top of the boulder.

Sit start with right hand on a half moon feature, left hand in a two finger pocket. Make a move up and right to a half pad mailbox slot. Stand up to a small left hand three finger pinch. Jack the feet and dead point to crimp ten feet off the ground. Make a heinous match and set up for another big right hand move. Bump the left hand and top out. Super classic. Definitely harder for under six foot people.

This is the really big boulder that sits at the base of Prospect ledge. Over the last few years I have cleaned and sent each one of the ten quality lines this boulder has on it. If you live north of the notch and are looking for a fun day out bouldering while the notch is closed it’s worth checking out. It gets full sun and drys up pretty quickly. The rock quality is really good schist. It took quite a few hours to clean this boulder, so go climb it and enjoy!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Prospector’s Nugget