Start with a couple of bouldery moves past two bolts on a short steep wall with a detached flake. Move up trending left on a lower-angle section, and back right for a vertical finish on great holds, to the right of the sharp arete.

Reach for the Sky

Short Fuse

Seasonal View

Choo choo

Trepidation

Washed Up Hippie With A Handgun

Golden Slippers

Life of Brian

How Green Was My Valley

Thin Line

Menethesis

Lichen Runs Through It

Dukes of Hazard aka Three Gems

Bear

Torch

Alice's Ballroom

Simple Samba

Contentment

Moonriver

A Bolt Too Far

The Spinach Arete

Lost Boys

Bear Crossing

The Flying Jib

go up a slab past a small diagonal bulge to gain the bottom of a short steep wall and a right-facing corner. Climb the corner and the face to its right.

Start just 10' feet right of the start of Torch (the bolted corner/roof), and climb diagonally right up the easy corner/ramp to the thin, overhanging crack on the left wall. Excellent and difficult jamming lead up the enjoyable set of finger and hand cracks to a tree anchor. 

  Rope anchor probably needs replacing if it hasn't been since '99.

Climb the delicate slab up to the vertical finish.

This is the first climb encountered and maybe the easiest on the cliff.  Head straight up the slab following an obvious line of 4 bolts.  Straying into the off-width on the right probably lowers the grade a bit.  

  You'll understand the name if climb there long enough in the summer months.

A somewhat pumpy and sustained mixed route that will test your balance and footwork. 

  Pitch 1: Climb a series of horizontals with good gear to a bolt. pull through the bolt (crux move) into the obvious handcrack. Climb the crack to the top trending left over the bulge as the crack runs out (watch the loose blocks on the right). Delicate moves lead you to a ramp, second bolt and rest. Fun face moves and one more bolt will gain the two bolt anchor. *Gear is possible between the last two bolts on the right. (90)

Someone must have climbed this in the past, it is too good of a natural system yielding an interesting summit of the first cliffs. Start in offwidth to the right of choo choo. Do not use any bolts. Keep inside offwidth until the very top bumping a #4 or #5 to protect upper portion, making transition to climbers right onto a death flake. flake protects well with micros and nuts up to 0.75 cam. However, it is hollow and flexes and could potentially break in a fall. Regardless, this is an interesting climb, and needs no bolts. Climb to end of flake to quartz vein. 2 bolt belay shared with 'Golden Slippers'. 

This a really nice moderate climb up one of the taller sections of the cliff.   Positive holds in the lower sections gradually peter out leading to a fun thin cruxy section before the angle lessons.  The top section is easy but a little runout.

Varied face climbing with smears, crystals and knobs.  There is a big slot between the third and fourth bolts, not visible from the ground, that takes a medium cam and offers secure jams while reaching the fourth bolt.  Moderate climbing to the first bolt, twenty feet off the ground.  For our friend Brian Skelding.

This is the climb just to the right of the off width on the larger main wall near the approach.  Follow the line of bolts up.  Once you surmount the bulge protection runs out.  You can place smaller pro in an obvious flake or just run it out to the top.  Your choice.   

Difficult and thought provoking moves past the first and second bolt lead to a steep and unrelenting slab protected by two bolts and gear at the midway-point. 

  Pitch 1: Climb past three bolts to a vertical crack/pocket (gear up to .75) midway up the slab. Continue straight up the slab on thin but fun chips and smears to a bolt. The route continues on to a nice balcony where you can get a well deserved shake before the final moves past the last bolt to a two bolt anchor (60) 

A fun, well protected route. Crux moves are clipping the anchor.

A nice well protected climb on good rock with thin moves at the last two bolts.

Climb the bouldery start to a delicate layback up a thin left-arcing crack.  Come face-to-face with the crux bulge and pull past two bolts on steeper terrain to a two-bolt anchor.

Fun climbing straight up the slab just right of the presently heavy lichened Bear Crossing. The 4 bolts above the dike seem a little left of the best holds and the natural line so the clips maybe a little awkward. If you lead the route straight up by the bolts it feels 5.9, if you use the better holds to the right it's 5.8.

The bolted line up the right hand dihedral and roof system. There is an optional small TCU placement between the first and second bolts. Face climb and stem up the corner, then pull up and right over the roof before stepping back left to the anchor.

Climb up, two bolts, to large ledge.  Continue up through crux to 3rd bolt and into corner.   Clip the bolt on the arete and head up and right. Pass two more bolts to the anchor (two bolts, with rings).

Climb a short, blocky section to a horizontal crack (cam), climb right to a welcomed bolt about 20' up. Pass a 2nd bolt to a beautiful left trending flake. At top of crack step right to a bolt. Climb pass 2 more bolts on a steep face to a 2 bolt rap anchor.

Climb the face, through a bulge midway up, passing seven bolts along the way.    Generally moderate climbing with occasional thinner moves peppered in.  Finished by the light of a full moon on a warm July night.

Thin, delicate, face/slab climbing up past 8 bolts.  The bolts gradually peter out as you reach an odd quartz vein that can be followed easily but a little iffily to the top.  Very fun climb some call 5.10, some call sustained 5.9 without true crux.   

The route actually begins in the obvious undercling flake to the right of the first bolt. I suggest clipping the first bolt from directly below it before getting onto the flake. Make strenuous moves traversing directly left past the bolt, then follow four more bolts around the arete and up the steep face to an anchor on the right.

A bouldery start gets you to the first bolt. Easy moves to the second. Very balancy and perplexing moves get you past the first crux and to a good stance. A second crux awaits you after clipping the fourth and final bolt which lands you onto a nice stance. From this stance it is roughly 20' to a two bolt anchor with rings.

Start directly in front of the large oak tree, about 15 ft Left of "Bear" and 10-12 ft Right of "Golden Slippers".

 The current guidebook designates this a "trad" climb...perhaps the bolts are too far apart to qualify as "sport". The book also lists it as "5.8". I thought a bit harder and posted it as such. We'll let "consensus" determine the grade.

 Climb up the bolted line (holds brushed 2015), passing the place where a flake broke off (before or after the grade of 5.8, per guidebook, was established?) cross over "Bear" and finish in the "groove".

 2018 update - currently the abundance of oak sap from the huge tree has given the lichen plenty of food and the climb is in need of another brushing, although the holds are cleaner than the surrounding rock.

Angle up the dirty slab from the right to reach the base of the obvious flake. Clip a bolt, then pull up into the flake and follow it to two more bolts which protect the final, crux face moves. 

  This thing was thoroughly cleaned ten years ago; dunno what it looks like now.

This is the main original cliff band at Attitash.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Main Area