This is the obvious double crack system on the top half of the right side of the southwest face of Cockroach Crag.

The bottom section is relatively rotten, but protects adequately if you avoid the really loose stuff.

The double crack system is wonderful, straight-on, solid, well-protected hands.  Like many climbs, it's main crime is being too short.

The Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks

R.S. Chicken Choker

The Leatherhead Arete

Classic Corner

Climb Of The Cockroaches

Roach Roof

False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina)

Thumby Bloody Thumby

Roach Motel

A strenuous and engaging thin crack over a roof on the south face of the crag. Expect hard pulls off thin jams on this short but enjoyable route.

This is the obvious line just left of

Classic Corner

which offers steep and continuous balance moves up an arete which is capped by a small roof. Well-protected with fun moves and a nice view of the surrounding desert. Gear belay and an easy walk-off from the top.

Not much ambiguity here.  It's a clean, right angle, right facing dihedral, into a roof, which you pass with the handcrack on the right.

There is (or was, as of January 1, 2003) a loose block a few feet up in the crack.  You can choose to either crank on it, thereby changing the lower section of the climb and possibly injuring your belayer, or carefully avoid it, thereby leaving the climb intact.  I recommend the latter.  :)

There's a downclimb to climber's left.

a steep route with some fun face/flake moves, but some large loose holds detract from the experience

Left of

Classic Corner

(5.7) and across from the blocky

Cockroach Crag

is this left-facing corner system/ramp. Good jams on clean rock make this a worthy tick if in the area and a sunny location makes this a good route to do on those chilly afternoons, although there is little to no protection from the wind. Perhaps one star out of five.

Make a few height sensitive moves to access the higher of two horizontal cracks just right of a scary looking loose block. Traverse right making a few cruxy moves when the lower crack ends. Then ascend a flake which leads to the summit. Belay via small cams under a flake on the formation’s summit.

Fun and interesting climbing past several horizontal cracks that gains a thin crack near the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in Cockroach Crag