Ladies Man

The Big Chill

JenEric Stain

Iron Man

Mark’s Arete

Sole Man

Iron Man .8+, 2 stars 2 pitches. 300  BBn, MC 99    The lower half of  Iron Man and  Ladies Man are easy and less appealing, however the upper sections are great rock and great climbing. 

  Climbs dark water streaks. Crisscrosses and shares belay stations with Ladies Man.   1st bolts   2nd left up weakness then traverse right, then up to Rap station.

Follow a thin seam to a bushy ledge with a small rock arch that can be threaded for the pitch one belay. Pitch two follows a wide crack system that angles left. Easier climbing leads to the top of Exit Dome.

Two and half stars, a really good climb! I think we approached it wrong so it took some extra effort to arrive at the base of this climb… we approach it from the right (east) side of the wall and had to scramble up the wall a bit… you could probably avoid this by approaching it from the left (west) side and navigate the fins to arrive at the base of this climb which is easily identifiable because there is a large oak tree which marks the beginning of this climb. Scramble your way on-top of the fin to the tree. Step across the fin and onto the main wall and almost squeeze up as if you’re doing a squeeze chimney through the branches to get the first bolt. I plugged a medium (either purp or green) cam as I made my way to the next bolt and then follow bolts through a water stain. Good climbing through grainy dishes and bolts further apart then you would like to the anchor 140 ft 5.9 bolts one med cam slings for a tie off From the anchor head up and right clipping a bolt and crossing grain surgery. Continue up and right following plates, they will disappear as the angle eases and then up into a patch of plates ( about here you will see a anchor on your right… for the rap) continue up low angle to a bolt and to the anchors 150 ft 5.7 Double Rope Rap Sole Man… careful where you place your rope on the rap there’s more than a few chicken heads up thereIf you wanna get to the summit pitches of entrance squeeze under the arch (just good fun) and head up towards the summit 

This is a 2 1/2 star route each pitch has some fun climbing and a defined crux. This can be a good way to add some pitches to your day climbing the wasteland or you can continue up to the top of entrance dome. Climb the right arete of the alcove on exit dome. This alcove breaks the south face from the west face of exit dome. From the ground you can spot a bolt about mid-way on the arete. Pitch one: We start at the base of some Boulder with a wide-ish crack, past a dyke band as it turns vertical. Clip two bolts and pass a small roof on gear. Then a bit of runout slab to a two bolt anchor. 150 ft more or less 5.8.Pitch two: In the book (Tanya’s) it shows the route going through the waterstreak. From the anchors I couldn’t see any gear that would be available going through the waterstreak and couldn’t find any bolts. So I followed the gear up and left through a crack with a bulge, which was some good fun and probably harder then the listed grade in the book… like 5.9. Pass another bulge and then a step over right to some boulders where you can set up an anchor before it domes-out.To get off we followed the dome back a bit and to the west face and found a tat anchor for the big sleep. I left some wedding and a locker so we could double rope (70’s) rap to the ground. One rap 

This wall faces east and is good on days 75 degrees or less.  You can climb there if it is warmer on a breezy day.  Nothing spectacular at this crag but a full day of fun climbing. Most of the routes are face routes but there are a few cracks and a small rack is a good idea.

Description

Routes in Exit Dome