This route ascends the smooth and vertical varnished face about 15 feet right of Classic Corner (5.8). Expect a bouldery start and thin climbing throughout.

Eggs Over Sleazy

Hook Line and Sinker

Boulder Dash

Fine Line

Chin Diaper

Mavericks

Attack Dogs

Truffle Mac n Cheese

The Slab Dance

Ripcurl

Badger's Buttress

Rocky Road

Allied Forces

Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not In My Back Yard) Town

Classic Corner

Wow, this climb is pure joy. It is aesthetic, has fun jams, and good pro. Climb the prominent dihedral that first angles left, then angles right around a corner and out of sight. As you get near the top of the dihedral, you can step left into a bigger and easier crack/gully; or continue in the dihedral and escape with an easy off-width move. Belay at the top of the crack/gully using some smaller cams, or move higher and belay at the top of a flat ledge using a double sling around a big rock and some small cams. The total climb is about 100 feet.There are a pair of bolts to use for the anchor.  They are off to the climber's left and slightly obscured by some bushes.  A 70m rope will get you down with some to spare.Alternatively, you can down climb a short 4th class section and walk down the big ravine (South-West of the belay).GETTING THERE: From the 1st picnic area at Red Rock Spring head West up the hill and to the right of Jabba The Hut Rock (the first band of rocks). Then, turn left (South) and scramble up a blonde 4th class ramp. This will place you roughly at the base of the Classic Corner.

This line climbs up the impressively face of the buttress just left of Allied Forces. Its long steep and pumpy with endurance cruxes all the way to the anchor. Start up Rocky Road protecting with hand size cams and long slings. Or climb the start of Fine Line to the left to gain access to the starting ledge.

Boulder Dash climbs the right bolted line through the center of the face.  Pull a low roof and follow an easy section to a crack feature in the base of the headwall.  The crux comes in the first 10ft off the lower angle rock, so clipping the bolt after the crux maybe a little heady, but there is a good hold to do it from. 

  The climbing on the upper headwall is on small varnish crimps which is quite continuous.

Start down and left of Rocky road and at the bottom of the red buttress. Climb the arete and mantle onto the slab to access the ledge and the base of this steep climb. Climb a steep corner/crack to a big flat hold. Rest and then finish up on the steep technical thin face above.

A low crux with tricky feet will get you into crack out left then the perfect black rock above. 6 bolts to anchor 

An airy and varied line. Follows a zigzagging line of holds toward a seam that arcs through a steep headwall. Black slab with plentiful holds to a bulge initial crux around 10-, then up a slab to a vertical pocket and flake section, a good rest before the steepness,and then sequential movement up a reachy throw crux and pumping to the chains. A much easier red point than onsight.

Fun climb featuring really cool moves through a lieback past the second bolt!  The 10c comes at the beginning moving out of the smooth corner onto the lower angled face above and then is about 5.9.

A punchy low crux on side pulls after a couple bolts off the boulder. 

Start on a block just left of boulder dash. A thin, technical and sustained slab, thats more like a vertical face. Fun, insecure moves, shares anchors with boulder dash.

A funky line that is not for everyone. A wide layback with one bolt leads to an "a cheval" ride across the top of the flake, clipping 2 bolts, then steep pulling over a bulge to a gear-protected seam. This leads up crispy crack to a rest stance, some sketchball loose flake wrestling, a fixed thread, and a short corner leading to a roof with a downward-facing half inch bolt. Pull right around the roof, clip a high bolt, navigate through steep terrain to one last bolt, and make a final throw to a jug and clip chains at chest level. If you clip the chains before the throw, you wussed out.

This climb is located about 50 feet South (to the left) of the Classic Corner and follows the prominent low angled arête.  Start on the left side of the arête and climb up and over a couple of easy ledges.  Place some pro.  Then, move right and onto the arête with instant exposure.  Continue up the arête passing two bolts and several opportunities for small cams.  The climbing is more challenging then it appears from the base and is slightly run out in sections.  Belay at the top of a flat ledge using a double sling around a big rock and some small cams.  The total climb is about 100 feet. 

  To exit, down climb a short 4th class section and walk down the big ravine (South-West of the belay).

Rocky Road is a tough little OW. If you're a fledgling OW leader this would be a good candidate to break into the grade. The crux is, obviously, well protected and short lived. However, the remainder of the climb will prove to be a challenge if this is your first foray into the wonderful world of offwidth.  

  There are two ways to start the climb: one way would be to start directly below Allied Forces and follow a finger to hand crack and pull the bulge using face holds and fire into the meat of Rocky Road. The other option would be to start about 15 to the right of Allied Forces and climb up easy (5.7) terrain into a 3" crack up to the bulging corner/crack. The obvious bulge is what you're looking at getting into. From there fire straight up the left-facing offwidth corner for 100 feet of grueling fun.

The flare/OW formed by the left side of a huge flake.  Approximately 30m to the left of Classic Corner.  Good strenuous fun.

Really good and fun route to combine in a day with Classic Corner with fun movements over somewhat run-out climbing between the bolts.  The moves feel pretty so don't stress about the bolts too much!

Red Springs Rock is the rock group above Jabba The Hut Rock. Red Springs Rock gets morning sun and late afternoon shade.  The climbs consist of trad and mixed-sport.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Red Springs Rock