This is an ultra-fun single pitch line that starts off on steep face climbing and ends up traversing out underneath a huge 30'+ roof crack/corner!  A very unusual type of climbing for whitesides, more reminiscent of Moores Wall.  The name is a reference to a stellar yet underappreciated route at Moores...  I know of several people that have looked at this thing for years, but for some reason, never climbed it.

P-1  Climb steep rock past 2 bolts and a hidden .5 cam (left) just shy of the ledge. A funky mantel up onto the small ledge gains an awkward but useful rest.  Once rested, step up to clip bolt in dark streak, and continue to the roof.  Getting established into the crack is a bit cruxy, but after that, the crack is excellent all the way to the 2 bolt anchor above (and right) of the roof.  Note: watch the rope drag/partner-swinging potential at the end of the crack.

Zombie Spoof

One Pitch Wonder

Treat

Sailor Moon

Save the Shrimp

Unknown 2

Crimpers delight

Lucky 13th (CRS) pitch 1 - 5.10c, pitch 2 5.11+

Seam of Dreams

Scarecrow

Esoteric

Unknown

Spooktacular

On second thought

Trick

Start on the face about 20 feet left of the arete. An excellent juggy face leads to a ledge rest below a shallow overhanging right facing corner. Bomber gear and fingerlocks take you up to a two bolt anchor (there used to be a rappel tree but it is now dead)

There are 2 lines that share the same start.  The left one is aptly named "Trick" and this one is called "Treat".

Start on a small shelf just right of a small rhodo growing out a of crack.  Move up and right on good holds past a decent small cam (hybrid alien works well) to a bulge and good gear about 20 ' up.  Follow the weakness through numerous bulges to a seam and a bolt at the last one (crux).  There is an anchor at 90' -- below another 100' or so wall of easy looking terrain.  Note: The low bolt is the start of "Trick".

Good route which climbs features left of one pitch wonder. Climb face past fixed pin? and bolt? and gear to a headwall above a roof protected by several bolts.

This route has friction, cracks, traverses, overhangs, water grooves and more and is an absolute blast.  There are some areas where the route is run out, but at most of the critical areas there is sufficient pro.  You can easily exit the route at pitch 2.

Pitch 1 is primarily friction - 5.7Crux

Pitch 2 is friction, a dihedral crack, face climbing and overhang finish into a cave-You can walk off the route from here if desired. Crux5.7-5.8

Pitch 3 is 3 progressive overhangs with great rest points - Crux5.8

Pitch 4 is friction - Crux5.8

Pitch 5 starts with a 15ft crack to a water groove and then huge ledge - Crux5.8

Pitch 6 starts with a overhang off the ledge and then follows a water groove with face climbing, ending with another overhang and face climbing. - Crux5.8

The crux of the route is about halfway into the route transitioning from the lower face to the upper face.  The 4th pitch has a traverse with little pro (at least back in the 80's).  I would assume by now that some bolts have been added to key areas of the route.  The entire route was originally done with sparse pro, sparse bolts, tricams and stoppers.  Modern gear makes it much more enjoyable and protected.

This is a great face climb if you can overlook the slightly dirty middle section.

Look for a line of bolts that leads up and right through the crux headwall. The second bolt has a quick link attached to it. Make some fun technical moves on the face passing two bolts. Continue up and right. Some gear can be had out left in between bolt 2 and 3. There is some marginal gear more inline with bolt 3, but the rock was suspect and the placement shallow. Below bolt 3 is a hollow block. It looks mostly attached when you get a better view, but avoid it if you can. Use caution clipping bolt 3 as it is steep and a ledge fall is possible. Continue above bolt 3 using the seam for jams, laybacks, and slopers (FUN!). Get a few more pieces before you reach the last two bolts. There is an easy way to clip the last bolt, I will let you discover it. Pull up onto the steep bulge and fight your way out. This section is not truly over until you are standing on the slab higher up. Clean falls if you blow it, good luck!

This route was led yo yo style at second bolt due to a tenuous clip.  I may re-locate the second bolt.

Climb up and right on white rock via thin crimping past 2 bolts.  The second bolt is reasonable to clip if you manage to find the best stance among the crimpers.  From the left facing corner above, climb up and left through the overlap and past a bolt to easier ground.  Continue up a crack and face to a 2 bolt anchor shared with the route to the left called "Scarecrow".

The first pitch is a fun 5.10ish route in its own right.

P-1 Start up the grassy ramp near a gully. Climb past 3 bolts to a fork. Move right here past one more bolt to a stance out right (the left version is a different route). Wander up the face past well spaced but adequate pro to a 2 bolt anchor at 165'.

P-2 Climb the steep wall up past a small foot pedestal.  Continue up past gear and 3 bolts up higher on the face (crux).  Continue up to a 2 bolt anchor on a grassy broken up ledge system.

Either merge right onto Bloody Bolts, or rap.

Amazing all gear protected seam 10 foot left of sailor moon. Lower off the 2 bolt anchor atop Sailor moon.

Climb wall past .75 camalot to get you to first and only bolt. climb past a fragile jug hold to horizontal which you can load up with cams from .75 to #2 camalot, then step 5 feet to the left and decipher a tricky crux sequence to get to easier terrain. Continue up the well protected fun moderate  vertical face past lots of medium cams in horizontals and a few nut placements. 2 bolt anchor shared with Crimpers delight.

This namesake pitch was established by Shannon Stegg by accessing the corner from the Indian Ledge. Upper and lowers pitches have been made creating a top to bottom route.

Pitch 1 climb up crusty dark slab to a ledge with a short face. For easiest to build belay here.

Pitch 2 I have climbed through this face two ways by crimps and jugs on the left or the water groove on the right. From here climb up to the Indian ledge near large pine tree.

Pitch 3 The pitch you climbed up here for. Work your way up the huge corner with a thin crack to a ledge out left and belay.

Pitch 4 Pull the bulge with thin cracks right of belay and climb slab above to another steep face and belay.

Pitch 5 Climb steep face through bulge and groove to trees.

Bush whack through some trees and hike the main trail off.

Great face climbing! This is one of our favorites on the Red Dog buttress.

Start about 20' right of Treat. An easy ramp leads to a steepening face below a line of bolts. Plug some gear as you head up the ramp. Pull an easy bulge to get to the first bolt. Follow seams, slopers, and some good ledges to a few more bolts until you reach the final "headwall" bulge. Be sure to get a piece before the 3rd bolt on the original start. Plug some gear and make the funky mantle. You can either finish slightly right to a set of anchors, or go left to the anchors on Treat.

An alternate start is down and to the right at the face where there are two bolts, and the second bolt has a quick link. After doing the move at the second bolt, continue up, get a good finger sized piece and cut hard left, then up to get to the original first bolt. Adds about 30' more of good face climbing. Lots of extensions to make it run smooth.

This route was finished on Halloween day so the name seems fitting.  This is an excellent and plumb line on amazing holds (except for the short and thin crux).

Climb past 2 bolts and a thin crux that can be done 2 ways.  It is probably 11c/d straight up, or 11a/b by going around left.  From second bolt, make a slightly exciting mantel up to clip the 3rd bolt.  Move right then back left and climb straight up the wall passing great holds and great gear to some finishing bulges.  Lower from a 2 bolt anchor at about 100' at the top of the bulges.

This is a great climb with lots of variety.  It has a short and bouldery crux that can easily be aided at 5.11 A0.  Be sure to sling much of the gear in the middle of the route (under roof) long.

P-1. Climb up to a bolt in the ramp that leads right past a pin and another bolt.  Face climb on wild crystals to a stance below left facing corner and get some gear ( small nuts).  Climb past a small/med cam (offset works well here) to the bolt and then up to a stance below roof.  Move left past possible .4 camelot (sling long) and clip bolt above roof.  Continue left then make some funky delicate moves to gain the face above.  Climb past 2 more bolts and some balancy mantel moves to an anchor at 100'.

Start same as for "treat" but move left instead.  There is a bolt 25' up.  Follow the obvious weakness up, passing the moss pad on the left and gaining the cool seam at the top.  Follow this past a key yellow alien size piece to a 2 bolt anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Left of main southeast face