A daring first ascent, with little payoff by my friend Matt. Lots of raining rock and near misses. This boulder still needs to see lots of clean up! Be careful if you dare to do the SA.

Starting just left of the cactus patch make your way up the red stained rock.

Turd Ferguson

Buried Trashure

Sky High

Bippity Blobbity Boo

Fight or Flight

Just Another Inch

Diarrhea Smash

Penguin Traverse

Sticks and Stones

Pocket O' Water

Pinch a Loaf of Bread

Tombstone Nintendo

What Goes in Must Come Out

Step Up

Little Tooth

Oh Deer!

Beached Wales

Billy Goat

Temporary Name

I ended up bashing my left knee pretty good when a large food hold broke off on the first ascent. During the second ascent my friend broke of a large hand hold. Moral of the story is be careful while climbing. I thought I had the route totally cleaned up.

Starting on the East face right next to an old Juniper make your way left between the two boulders and around to the south side. Continue making your way far left until you get a decent hand hold on the far left side. From there mantle up and over. It's not as easy as it looks.

When I first came across this boulder there was a large hole just underneath the route. So I filled it in with all the broken bottles, beer cans and other things that were smashed and thrown into the fire right next to the rock.

Sit start on low obvious pocket and left pinch. Throw for the left gaston and go up.

I did my best to clean up the route, but there will still be some lose rock and lichen on top for a bit, Be careful.

Start with your right hand in obvious pocket and go up. Easy walk off descent. A pretty easy warm up problem. The ground is angled a bit but not to much of a worry.

A simple straight forward boulder problem. Use the large cobbles and places where cobbles used to be to get yourself up to the top. There's still a bit of loose rock so be super careful of what you are grabbing on to.

Start low with left hand in shallow pocket, right hand on painful side-pull. Go up straight up! You can either "fight it" and take the technical way (probably better for shorter people) or take the "flight" and dyno it! Just make sure you hold on when you grab the hold!

Still some lichen and moss on this route so it can be a little slipper still in the upper section. Careful!

I figured with such a lengthwise boulder there was plenty of room to add some traverses into the mix. Start on Sticks & Stones, traverse right until you reach Pinch a Loaf of Bread and then finish off on that route. You'll feel like you need just another inch to complete this one to reach the good holds.

I did my best to clean the route, but there will still be some loose rock and lichen. Please be careful.

While doing this routes FA a large boulder came down and smashed my friend in the hip. She apply named the boulder the Shite Boulder, because lets be honest, it's not the great. Still lots of loose rocks if you dare to climb so be careful. Also watch out for the cactus. It's actually critically endangered in Utah.

Starting of the far left side go up and trend left and up.

Standing start on two side pulls and go straight up. Be careful of the rock, although I have done by best to clean these routes, there will still lichen/moss and loose rock that will take time before they are totally safe. I didn't have a name for the route so I invited some friends over to do some second ascents and my friend Matt came up with the name.

Starting on two larger cobbles on the far right side make your way left towards the arete and go up. Make sure you find the desperate small holds to help you pull yourself up and over. Kinda a highball but once your pull the roof it gets much easier.

I did my best to clean up the route, but there will still probably be loose rock and lichen. Please be careful.

Sit start low on small crimp then throw for the pocket and go for the rock that looks like loaf of bread. Hence the name of the route.

I've tried my best to clean the route, but it will take some time before all the lichen and loose rock are fully safe. Please be careful.

Easy trad climb with short and adventurous approach and descent. Perfect for teaching trad and movement in various types of terrain.

Multiple starting belays possible. But we belayed on flat rock on the right side of climb, just below descent gully. This avoids possible rock fall.

Climb nearly to the top of the first pinnacle. Traverse right and back to an enormous rock plate wedged between first and second pinnacle.

Build Belay here to break into 2 short pitches or continue upward for one longer trad pitch.

Climb to the top of second pinnacle. Watch for loose blocks. Sling secure boulders and/or build gear anchor for belay.

To descend go down and right to a class 3 gully that returns you to starting belay.

The rock quality is much better on this one. Grab onto the rounded cobbles and make your way up. Bit a of a highball with not a great landing!

Even though the rock quality is much better on this one you'll still need to be careful of loose rock. I did this as an on-site by myself, a little scary!

Basically Starting on the ledge in the middle make your way to the top without using your hands! Named after the Movie Franchise. Original, I know...

Sit start. Left hand on crimp and right hand on side pull. Find some good feet and throw for the dish. Find your way to the little sharp "tooth" that will help you achieve your goal. Once your at the big maroon colored cobble your just about done.

A harder challenge if you are up to it. Using no hands Make your way to the top of the boulder. Named after the dead deer I found laying next to the route while doing the FA.

Just mantle up! Harder than it looks!

The name.. Do you get it...

Using no hands make your way up the top! My friend Matt named it after I had no good ideas.

Fun easy route that greets you just at the mouth of Wales Canyon. Rock is surprisingly bullet proof for most of the route. Bolts look relatively new so it couldn't have been established more than a few years ago. Hopefully the FA party will come around and let us know that the name of it is.

First bolt is quite a bit up the route but it's easy climbing to get to it. It's pretty cruiser up until that last bolt and getting over the bulge (crux). Once you get over you'll be greeted with chains. I've added a quick-link and two carabiners for easy lower off. Expect a little rope drag still.

Just like with Maple Canyon I would wear a helmet to protect from the inevitable falling rock.

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Routes in Wales Canyon