From the parking area if you look to the SW, Ted Shred, is the left leaning finger crack in the slab. Climb the crack and numerous features on the face. The crack steepens and opens up near the top.

Ted Shred

Locked and Loaded

De Ham Bone

Sling-a-Ding-Ding

Haf & Haf

Slingshot Arete

Paul's Paradise

Wrist Rocket

Unknown (aka 'Platy Galore')

North Face

Sweet Pete

Gun Rail

Guns and Roses

Unknown 10b

Dress Rehearsal

Unknown (aka 'Filthy Peter')

Top Gun

Unknown (aka 'Bittersweet Feet')

Annie Get Your Gun

Climb the face under an arch or the right-side of the arch, then up past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

This is to the left of "Ted Shred".

Route (name and FA party not known at this time) established sometime in 2008.  Route is not listed in the new Bishop Area Rock Climbs guidebook.

This follows 5 bolts just right of "Sweet Pete".

Easy face climbing up plates (5.2) for about 25 feet, then another 40 feet of low angle slab (5.3 at first, then continually easier)

Getting into the crack is the crux. Climb the crack, then up grainy face past a bolt to the anchor.

Climb the arete of the free-standing "boulder" in the parking area just east of Paul's Paradise, passing four bolts to the anchor. The crux is near the top.  The route gets its name from the method we used to first get to the top of this pinnacle... I used a slingshot to get a light nylon line over the top of the formation. I then hauled a climbing rope over the top, whence Nurse Ratchet gave me a belay on the easier east face.  Established top down, hand drilling.

Start by stemming between formations and stepping onto the tower. Extend the first draw, then move down and around to a crumbly stance. Clip bolt 2 and make a balancy move up and into the crumbly, large "cutout". Bolt 3 protects another balancy mantle-ish move to the last good stance before the crumbly slab finish. Clip bolt 4, take a breath and crumble your way to the top. This route may need 50 or so ascents to clean up.

This is a fun route with slabby moves to the first bolt and wonderful thick plates that lead to one more bolt within the plated section.

The North Face route climbs the steep flared seam, right of center of Paul's Backyard. Climb the seam and features on either side to reach a high first bolt. Continue pulling plates and edges to the anchors.

On the far left of the formation, follow 5 bolts to anchor.

Start just below a somewhat large broken flake/hole and work your way up to the first bolt. Make a few intermediate moves to reach the second bolt. From here (the crux), rocker up and latch onto the "rail" above on the thin patina plate. Continue to work up, moving slighty right then back left to reach bigger holds. Clip the 3rd and final bolt...you're home free!

Standard pulling on some solid but grainy rock.  Nice addition to the crag.

Climb the slab to the ledge where the first bolt is, about 20 ft. up.

Face climb up the seam. Crux is at the 2nd bolt. The climbing isn't too hard, but clipping the 2nd bolt is kinda awkward. After that the climbing eases to 5.7

A shortie that has pretty good hand jams and foot jams. We used it as practice for gear placements and setting belay anchors. Definitely not one you need to do here but great for teaching a friend about trad.

This ugly little thing is to the left of 'Sweet Pete' (approx. 20 feet) and climbs the blunt arete on the slab to a pair of bolts (one with a mussey hook and the other a bolt with chain???)

Climb easy slab past five bolts up the center of the slab.

Start climbing on large positive holds to a 6" diameter hole ten feet off the deck.. Pull through the bulge to more large holds and a high step. The angle eases with more large flakes leading to the anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Paul's Backyard