We started cleaning this route during the height of the Caldor Fire, the air quality was constantly changing from bad to TERRIBLE.  We spent many hours cleaning and climbing in the purple (AQI over 200) haze.

If you're looking for some quality trad/crack climbing while at Indian Springs, look no further.  A small step up from Grizzly crack in difficulty, Purple Haze offers two distinctive starts:

Standard (left crack) 5.9 - this line goes up for 15-20 ft. then trends right and meets up with the direct line.

Direct (right crack) 5.10a - climb straight up until the anchors, crux is down low in the first 10-15 feet.

Chain anchor w/ rings.

Purple Haze

Pappy Smear

Quarantine

Mandate for Dummies

Juniper Tree

Climb up the slab past one bolt. Above the slab, there is a tricky mantle over the head wall. This mantle is the crux and is protected by the second bolt. Go a few feet right then left when above the head wall, then follow a thin crack system past a piton. From here go straight up over the small overhang, which protects with good gear placements.

Pappy Smear is a pure face and pure sport route which starts on the left side of Middle tier under first bolt found about 8' up.  Although you don't see the second bolt, it is there!  The third bolt is right near the top of the pitch and nicely protects the crux move getting to anchors.

Quarantine starts up Juniper Tree but quickly takes a right turn to some interesting features.

Work your way up a lie-back arete where you'll clip the first bolt.  Shoot for the largest part of the roof system clipping four bolts on the way.

Varied and undulating line comprised of the crack system leading to the large juniper tree. Not a sustained angle. Many easy stances and obvious pro. Runners can help with rope drag. A fun and kind of odd climb. Walk off or rappel twice on questionable bolt anchors of neighboring routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Cliffs, Middle Tier