Seven bolts protect steep edges/smears up this exposed and fun route with the crux coming early on. Well protected, but not quite a sport route. A bolted anchor/rap is on top (90'). Take care if using a 50 meter rope and rap down the center of the formation, not down the route, as it's more than 80' down the route.

A standout climb with a short approach, exciting friction and great position  make this a very popular route, so plan accordingly.

loooooooose lady... photo by Eric Horst

Loose Lady

Hidden Arch

Snap on Demand

Nasty Lady

Puss N' Boots

California Girls (aka Muffin Top)

Ladyfingers

Dummy's Delight

Climb the crux of Hidden Arch (11d), then move right and climb an intersting section of steep  face with "mini moguls" and slopers (11a) directly up to the finish of Loose Lady.

Face climbing past two bolts (5.10) leads to the base of the arch (small cams); a fixed pin used to reside there. Just above,  insecure chimney/stem moves lead up the flared corner until it widens higher and starts to curve left finally opening up to accept jams.

At the crux it is possible to exit the corner and climb the outside face of the arch to bypass some moves - the disadvantage is if you fall you will slam back into the corner.

Belay at top from bolted anchor. Rap or down-climb off to the west.

A real gem that is one of the many classic Josh routes involving some sort of funkness. Rarely done, perhaps because of it's "hidden" location, but well worth seeking out. A must-do for the grade and easily four stars out of five.

Technical and demanding moves are to be found on this route which offers decent but well spaced protection. As with many of the Hensel/Woodward routes at Josh one must be competent at the grade to fully appreciate them on lead. Two stars out of five.

Another seven bolt route but this one has steeper rock and smaller holds. The crux is getting to the last bolt and if you fall from a balancy mantle before standing up expect to take a healthy fall. Bolted anchor/rap on top (shared with Loose Lady).

Great moves on this route with a little fear factor but overall it's safe. Not done nearly as much as it's neighbor to the left, but for the grade a must do Josh face climb. This climb gets sun most of the day so it's an excellent choice on those cold days, but not the best choice when warm as this climb is somewhat temperature dependant. Three stars out of five.

The new J-Tree West guide gives this route two stars but I can't see why since the rock sucks.  Basically the route climbs a thin slab that has numerous loose and hollow flakes for holds that might break off at any moment.  I guess its worth doing if you already have a rope up, but maybe not.

Located directly under Dummy's Delight, Ladyfingers climbs patina flakes left to right to a shared finish with it. Begin by bouldering up the left side of Lucky Lady.  From the base of the buttress the route looks quite easy, and almost unappealing, as it never seems to get that high off the gully.

It is not as easy as it looks, however, and for all its positive edges, manages to require technical footwork.  As expected from Gaines, a quality route plucked from plain sight.

Fun jamming and lie-backing are to be had on this route with the crux a bulge partway with only smears for your feet. At the top set an anchor just below the top and belay; to descend walk right (east) and rap from bolts atop

Lucky Lady

with a single rope.

Yet another great route in an area stacked with classics; done in conjunction with several of the others in the area it makes for an excellent half to all day destination

* Be warned though that this area is extremely popular, so plan accordingly if your route of choice is taken.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Houser Buttress