There are 2 cruxes the first is the start climb the roof and flake when you can stand on the top of the flake climb left past a bolt then strait up through horazontals finshing with a bolt (second crux) up a trough to the anchors. Amazing! We did a first pitch to this climb starting from the gound. Its 5.9 and uses all gear I do not recomend climbing this. Instead approach left of the Jelly Stone wall then continue up another short gully to the top of the Satori Wall. turn south (right) and walk 100 yards. on your right you will see some bolt anchors and chain that can hang down in the upper trough on Satori. Either rap to the starting ledge or continue walking south to the end of the Satori wall then decend to the the starting ledge and travers over to the big ledge, roof and flake. Enjoy!

Satori

project 2 Bonzai wall

Bent Tree Camo

Double Pane

Solid Eight

Double Pane Direct

Unknown

Down Spout

Rain Delay

Q.F. (quartzite fun)

Hard Rock Minor

Mr Ranger Sir

Lichen Sorbet

Unknown 1

Pine Cone Cafe

Sharpie

Right Y

Decision time

Sport Mining

Bonsai Wall Project 1

Putty Knife

Bonsai Crack

Tempered Glass

Gun Dog

Jelly Stone

Hunter Orange

Black and Tan

Diving Board Chimney

Wing Shot

Pincone Top Rope Lines

Boo Boo

Aspen Arete

Tailings

Yogi Bear Flake

Squaty Body

Coal Crack

Left Y

Aspen Undercling

Extra Large Pine Nuts

Sweet and Sour

To the right of boo boo is an unknown route 5.10 or 5.11 would be my guess.

Another Project 5.12? right side of bonzai wall.

Great tchnical face climbing starts off with bolts then climbs past horazontals for Pro.

Start on the easy left facing corner then follow 3 bolts to the top.

Getting off the ground is the crux. This climb was free soloed by Boone Speed after we put it in and he said it was 5.8.

Thin sustaind face climbing up the lower face then continue past the big ledge up double pane to the anchors.

5 feet left of Hard rock minor follow crack to the top. use hard rock minors anchors.

P1 Start on a nice finger crack on a slaby smooth face. Go up the crack and to the left of a big roof, then continue strait up to the top of the wall. Belay at anchors next wall is short 30 ft climb up a crack just right of the anchors. P4 scramble up to the to wall then take your pick there are lots of climable cracks they just have a lot of lichen on them and need more trafic to clean up. Walk of to the north.

crux is on the face near the second bolt. Our first assent was all pro and we were rained off at the crux so we added the bolts and finished the climb.

Climb a really nice finger crack about 20 ft then step left to join sharpie or step right and continue up the face protecting the climb up through varius cracks and horizontals.

Hard Rock Minor is the first and only bolted line on the first carg of the west side crags (South end of west side crags), its on the Three Aces Wall.

Climb straigt up to the anchors past 3 bolts.

good moderate climb. climb past 4 bolts past the left side of the roof then continue strait up through horizontal cracks for Pro.

Start just right of the pine tree on pine tree ledge climb bolts over the black roof then continue strait up past horizontals to the anchor rap the route. Really Fun!

The crux is going right of the first bolt if you go left the climb is a little easier. This route is named after a sharpe shin hawk flying over head during the first ascent.

On the Pine cone Wall scramble up to the ledge with the big pine tree. At the left end of this edge you will climb to a bolt then up to black Y crack, take the Right line.

A bolt was added after the first ascent that is where the crux is but the climb is still runout a bit and gear placment is very tricky.

Descend rap route

The crux is the crack at the very top 5.10 if you go right and finish on sport mining the climb is 5.9. Fun easy climbing befor this.

I usually lead this with just the bolts but you can place a tcu or small cam to lessen the run outs (Run outs are not bad). I love this climb a classic for the area, Climb it every time I'm up there.

I am still working on this one. 5.11 sustained climbing.

This climb will only get better with more traffic as it cleans up.

This Crack goes up the center of the crag to a bonsai looking tree then climbs up to bolt and angles left to a set of anchors. This was an onsight first assent with out the bolt but we decided to place the bolt at the crux because it was tricky to find pro.

This is an ok route. It has an awkward crux at the second bolt.

Short but fun. Climb the arete in the middle of the wall.

crux is in the in the middle by the orange and black streaks well protected by bolts The final roof is challanging as well takes gear. Amazing sustained climbing, if you take pictures from the top pulling the last roof in october the backdrop is golden aspen.

Start from the ground on a seperated face (from the main wall)cross a bushy ledge then climb the sustained black and tan face above.

We have always just soloed the climb to access the top it is actually a fun climb. Down climb or rap a near by climb or walk off the the south.

Short but fun.  This is a steep wall that climbs a black streak in a small gully.

Climb just right of the pine tree on pine tree ledge for the 5.8 and 10 feet right for the 5.7 you can place a directional pro peace to Tope Rope both.

Climb the face and crack to the right of Mr Ranger Sir.

Aspen Arete climbs the right most arete on the long wall start right next an aspen tree. The first ascent was done with pre placed gear, the second attempt I could not find the gear place ments and bailed left to sport mining. I will bolt this some day the middle face is 5.10 the upper face is 5.ll but you can gor right around to corner and climb to the top to avoid the 5.11 part. there is a spot you can place pro for a directional at the top of this climb and use the sport mining anchors for a top rope.

fun climb will be beter with more trave the midle face which is the crux has alot of green lichen on it but still climbable.

Origianally a trad climb and 1 pin now bolts and pin.

Climb the left facing corner to a bolt then climb the roof 1 more bolt. use gear to to the top.

On the Pine cone Wall scramble up to the ledge with the big pine tree. At the left end of this edge you will climb to a bolt then up to black Y crack, take the left line.

A bolt was added after the first ascent that is where the crux is but the climb is still runout a bit and gear placment is very tricky.

Descend rap route

this was a great onsight first ascent I have debated on placing a bolt in the black streak let me know what you think.

Not a good climb but I did an onsight first ascent on this one and the pro was really bad. The crux is where the crack ends and you have to climb aways to the horizontals for decent pro however Derik (owner of the provo climbing store) climbed this and cliped the last bolt on calico camo which did not exist for the first axcent and said it was'nt to bad.

Originally done as a trad climb bolts were added latter. free soloed by Boone speed he probablly thought it was 9 or 10. short but fun.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mary Ellen's Gulch