Second route from the far left. Nice, well protected route for the 5.6 leader. Low angle, with pockets on black rock.

Mini Wheats

Ritual Roof

Keardo

Receiving Handshake

A Walk in the Park

Sending Data

Frosted Mini Wheats

Rain Dogs

Los Crozzlepusses

Papperoni

The Balance of Power

Infection Protection

Bizarre Ritual

The InBetween

Ergo

Stewed Prune

Cyclic Loader

Los Gastones

Fatigue

Branching Out

Paradox of Choice

A37 Crack Route

Cherry Pickin'

Leprosy

Bag of Sand

Bolting The Molting

A short but nice slabby route at the far left side of the crag. Crux is from the middle to the top.

Four bolt extension that pulls around the roof above Bizarre Ritual, then continues up and left to join the two bolt anchor with Receiving Handshake. The climbing is very entertaining on wonderfully positive holds and is currently a bit mossy. The large block that begins the traverse out right appears to be connected but it sounds hollow. It wouldn’t budge with two foot bar... proceed with caution.

As the hardest route at Area 37, Keardo is likely the most overlooked route at the crag. (I know I passed underneath it countless times before giving it go.) It's a fun line with unique movement down low to a tough, bouldery and sharp crux bulge past the last bolt to the anchors.The lower portion of the route involves sneaky moves between nice, positive holds past the first six bolts to a good rest. Get psyched and ready to bust out committing and difficult moves through the bulge above. Clip the last bolt next to the shallow groove and gun it up into the sharp finger crack. Crank hard as you leave the mental safety of the last bolt up a few moves to better holds above and the anchors.If you're looking for a fun 5.10+/5.11- (a.k.a. Keardo Lite), move right at the seventh bolt and clip the brown-painted anchors off to the right.

Four bolt extension to Sending Data that pulls the roof, with a brief crux, then continues up a few more feet on easier terrain to two bolt anchor. Lower off with a 60m

This fun climb is on par with Leprosy with harder individual moves but not as sustained.  Very enjoyable moves on cool holds if you can overlook the difficult start. 

  Pull off the ground with extreme difficulty, using a bad 2 finger pocket and a pinch to obtain a good hold several feet above.  Head up on slopers to obtain a good shake on a horn below the roof.  Pull the roof on good holds and clip the anchors.

A crux comes off the ground when you overcome the small bulge in the black, lichen-covered rock to positive flakes up past the third bolt. The flakes are thin and possibly dubious. Use your judgment and don't crank super hard if you're worried about the flake's strength. 

  A thin crux comes right at the fifth bolt leading to fun, juggy climbing past two more bolts to the anchors.    While leading keep an eye on the rope between bolts 2 and 3 so it doesn't go behind the large flake and cause unnecessary rope drag.  

  The route name is derived from the text that is displayed on-screen when one submits a object to MountainProject.com.  Members of the FA party spend a significant amount of time on said website.

Start on top of the rightmost platform that definitely was not built by the Civilian Conservation Corporation. Pull a couple of moves with good hands, but not the best feet. Clip the fixed wire draw that was included to assist with cleaning the route. Easy routes can have fixed draws too. Grab the muddy hueco jug and with your best Tom Waits imitation, sing "Inside a broken clock, splashing the wine, with all the Rain Dogs." Work your way up on good holds covered with lichen and moss and instead of complaining, brush the holds off. Make your way to the last bolt where the jugs run out. Pull to the anchors on thin hands, but good feet. Celebrate with beer and blueberry pie.

Jump start to a pair of graveley slopers to gain a few thrutchy moves to the crozzlepuss pocket. Three independent bolts. Joins Balance of Power and four more bolts to the anchor.

Start in the gap left of Leprosy. Pull on good holds to the big ledge. Make a committing move from the ledge to the arete at the second bolt. Just above the third bolt, make a big move to an awesome pocket. Follow the arete to the top.

Once again pull of the ground with difficulty, using some variety of the slopy "knobs" to get on the wall. Continue up on progressively better holds to a nice rest at the half way point. Rest well as some trickiness awaits passing the next bolt (fifth). Beta alert (it may be possible to skip this section using a lichen covered jug far to the left, that is difficult to see from below) Pull over the bulge and set up for the final steep moves to the anchor. There is a final bolt here that seems out of place and difficult to clip, (the clip would be as harder than making the one more move the anchor) so I skipped it.

Start in the obvious mungy crack atop the debris mound. Trend right past the first bolt onto gradually improving rock quality to a neat crux from the third to fourth bolts. 

After passing a bulge low down, follow 6 bolts angling leftward on a slab to an anchor below the high roof. The easiest line is not always obvious- consider stepping off the bolt line at times for a few moves. This climb has more pockets and smaller holds than others at Area 37, but isn't as steep.Because the climb angles left, tram in while lowering to clean or have a 2nd follow through the draws.

The shortest route on the center of the wall. Heads right in between Bag of Sand and Keardo to the anchors midway to the top. 

  In June 2017 two widowmaker trees leaning against the cliff were removed. In the removal, one of the trees knocked off the large, featured plate down low on this route.

A mostly-independent line of mainly 11-ish climbing with a tougher crux. The route is named after a not very positive but extremely ergonomic left-hand hold just before the crux at the bulge. After the crux the climb shares the diagonal roof seam of Branching Out for a couple moves but continues up the seam to left until its end. From there the line takes a more or less obvious way to shared anchors with Branching Out. However, since the top section after the diagonal roof seam and bulge is not that obvious and the climbing not that exciting there is a separate anchor for this route at the end of the roof/bulge leaving the top section to those who can't get enough and may want to add some additional, but slightly contrived, climbing to the Branching Out anchors.

A 5.8++, this route probably feels a little harder than the grade. Starts left of center of the crag, on the left side of the gap next to Cyclic Loader. The route starts at the gap and wanders left, then straight up to the anchors. There is large pine tree behind you as you are climbing. You can start on the left side face for a 5.10c variation.

Begins just right of the gap left center of the crag. Follow the bolts through some mantle moves and up through the tricky overhang at the top.

Three days of bolting, hammering, prying, scraping and brushing have yielded a fairly high-quality route between "Cherry Pickin'" and "Branching Out".  The route starts on the typical Jemez grit and launches into cleaner and steeper dark rock on a variety of holds (with many gastons).  A good rest precedes an interesting last crux (heel hook?).

Fatigue is the extension/second pitch to the fun Cyclic Loader route following a blunt arete to the top of the formation. Despite a 20' bit of less-than-quality rock on the 100' pitch, it's still a very fun pitch to the top of the 150' wall. The exposure, position and views more than make up for the short bit of dubious rock.  

  Climb Cyclic Loader to its anchors. Rest up and hope your muscles aren't feeling the effects of cyclic loading. When rested, climb lichen-encrusted rock past a couple of bolts to some cool holes and the first crux bulge. Pull the bulge and head directly into the next bulge. Bust through the second bulge and into the lesser quality rock for about 20 feet. Test your muscles' strength by working through the third and final crux of the pitch by snatching a big flake. Enjoy easier moves on the great rock of the nicely exposed blunt arete to the top.  

  The Cyclic Loader/Fatigue link-up is best done as one long 150' pitch but can easily be done as two pitches if desired.

Another newer climb right of Cherry Pickin' and Gastones - Branching Out is easier than it looks, for a climb of its steepness.

 Crank through a easier-than-it-looks steep grooved section with a height-dependent move to a strange bulge, then move left under the diagonal roof. Turn the roof and move right onto the licheny face.

Like the other routes on this wall, start with a tough boulder problem. Choosing which holds to use and whether or not to use shared holds with the starts of the two neighboring routes may be your personal crux. The start is likely more difficult for shorter climbers. Once you arrive at the second bolt the holds get better and better in nice, water-weathered rock. Climb through the small roof to sharper & dirtier rock (could use more brushing if you're so inclined) to the anchors.

The crack route at the far right side of the crag at Area 37.  This is actually a pretty clean, fun crack and was probably first climbed by the party who installed the anchors for "Bizarre Ritual".

Beautiful, steeply overhung route at the far left side of the crag. Not as far left as Frosted Mini Wheats, or Mini Wheats, however. Sustained! Crux is near the top of the route.

Moderate climbing leads to a difficult mantle move, leading to a blank face then a thin finger crack at the finish. 

  In June 2017 two widowmaker trees leaning against the cliff were removed. In the removal, one of the trees knocked off the large, featured plate down low on this route.

Call it molting, ecdysis, shedding or sloughing, the rock on this wall changes form more often than any other wall in the Jemez. In its current stage, after some agressive cleaning recently, the line offers up a bouldery start leading to a pumpy finish with some cool movement in the middle.  

  The rating on this one is highly dependent on the climber's stature. Shorter and much taller climbers will find the 12a rating spot on while those in the sweet spot of height will find it easier for the grade.  

  Start off in the cupped hole and boulder up to a good crimp and the first clip. Stay tight and crank through the crux to the route's best hold and the second bolt. Some side to side climbing with cool moves leads past the third bolt and to the fourth clip, a fixed chain. Hang on through bigger holds out left past the bulge above and the anchors. 

  The fixed chain on the fourth bolt not only allows for an easier clip but primarily serves to keep the lowering climber out of the way of the two young aspens growing at the base of the route. The lowering climber should clip his/her rope through this fixed chain while lowering to stay closer to the wall and keep the aspens from getting beat up.

A nice little crag about a mile east of the Las Conchas climbing area. This small crag has many good routes on the same type of rock as Las Conchas. Though the crag is small, there is a nice range in levels from 5.6 to 5.12b/c.

Description

Protection

Routes in Area 37