Make a slightly committing slab move off the ground to clip the first bolt and reach the shallow dike groove. (Alternatively it is possible to stand on the block just right of the start to clip the first bolt) Hand traverse left across the slab until you’re just below the second bolt. Mantle up to stand on the small groove and clip the second bolt. From here trust your feet and friction and head straight up to the anchor. 

Uncle Garry had to Work

Stretch Mark

Sunset Gun

Gone Fishing

Mediocracy

Mind the Gap

Dark Side of the Moon

Priapus Verde

Sun Burn

Mosaic

Frigid Air

Start on the big rock just outside of the wide chimney. Step across and into the chimney climbing up the left face, and staying close to the arête. Look for gear in small horizontals. Clip the bolt and stem between the two walls until it’s possible to place another small cam in a horizontal on the arête. Once you have good gear, make the cruxy committing move to get from a wide stem between the two walls in the chimney to fully established on the left slabby headwall. From here it’s not quite over, continue up the exciting and slabby arête past one more gear placement to the top.

Climb the face to the left of Sunny Side of the Moon past some small cracks in the large triangle shaped flake, leading to a thin crack and break in the overhang. Pull the overhanging finger crack through a brief but tall crux to a good jug followed by a crack in the slab that leads up to the anchor.

Burly and powerful, under cling your way up the small left leaning overlap flake until it ends, then make your way past a series of desperate lock offs and dead points that finishes with a slopey dish top out. Originally it was rated 5.12a/b but key flakes have since broken off making it harder. 

Begin in short broken crack. Clip bolt and traverse left into 2nd short crack. Work up and left into 3rd overhanging left leaning crack.

A view not to be missed! Don’t let the 5.4 R start deter you from climbing this gem. Climb the runout start to a good gear placement in a horizontal, then stand up and clip the first bolt that protects the crux slab move. After the crux, move around the arete to the second bolt. Followed by a second runout section of 5.6 climbing along the arete and the shallow dike that leads to the anchors shared with stretch mark.

Get off the ground in the Refrigerator crack corner, then step right and follow the bolt line up the dark and featured slab to shuts. Stays nice and cool on warm days.  Easy to toprope after climbing the crack.

A short but interesting climb that works its way up a series of flakes past 3 bolts to a cruxy top out sequence on slopey dishes that ends at a bolt anchor up and right.

Do you like micro-face?  Follow the bolts up the slab and over a small but engaging roof pull. Fun.

Make committing move off a boulder into a thin left leaning corner. Work up shallow corner by shuffling hands and pasting feet on numerous slabby footholds. Exit up and right at 3rd bolt.

Fun overhanging offwidth / lieback crack up the obvious corner.

Right below the Upper Sunset Wall and above the Lower Sunset Wall

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Middle Sunset Wall