A fun variation to

Jerry's Route

and worthy of its own entry, this line follows a great left sweeping crack to a mini dihedral. Good gear, great movement, and a difficult to read crux are half of why this route is fun. Find out the rest for yourself...

Start on a set of blocks and climb up to a small, leaning mini-roof. Follow this feature to its end, veer left, and climb a face/sweeping finger crack to a stance and dihedral. Finish on a ledge at a chain anchor.

Jerry's Variation

Roy's Variation

Wide Crack

Cardiac Bypass

Strawberry Crack

Swenson's Theoradical

5.6 Crack

Rosebush Crack

Last of the Wild Ones

Babies

The Fiver

Wizards Well

Tangentially

Beginners Lead

Pinnacle Standard

Pinnacle Dihedral

Silent Rock

Last of the Wild Ones Variation

Cardiac Arete

Bird Woman

Theoretically

The Spiral

Jerry's Route

Slanting Dihedral

Tough Trip Through Paradise

Climb up through a somewhat akward, right-facing crack. Finish at the large ledge.

This is a direct start to the upper crux of Jerry's Route. Begin in the open book corner on the right side of the main face. Moderate climbing through the dihedral leads to a crux move pulling out of the mini-roof. Follow Jerry's route to the chains.

A really good line that crosses a

The Spiral

and finishes at the top of the

Cardiac Arete

. Scramble up to a platform below

The Pinnacle's

left/west face. Begin up a steep, featured face and climb to a bolt. Follow the face up and left placing gear, then cross over, above the roof of

The Spiral

, onto the buttresses upper face. Continue left past the crux clipping two more bolts. A fun mixed climb with great protection.

You can take this down a few notches by finishing right on

The Spiral

.

This route goes up the crack to the left of Rosebush. Climb up the crack through a small bulge. Work your way up and into a short chimney area. From here you can jam the crack straight up, or work out onto the face on good holds to the right.

Climb Theoretically (or any of the other routes) to the large ledge and continue up the arete on the left side of the ledge to the large roof. Lean out right on jugs to clip the first bolt (may be hard to clip and very dangerous if not pre-hung). Once clipped, launch directly into the crux clearing the roof using the holds in the seam and some very bad (and blind) feet. It may help to be tall and flexible. Once standing above the roof pull a few more delicate moves past the second bolt to better holds on the ledge above. From here you can finish left on Wizard's Well, right on Last of the Wild One's (recommended) or above.

Because of the serious consequences of falling getting to the first bolt, I would recommend top-roping this first or at least pre-hanging the first draw. Also, as a side note, I gave this a bit of an upgrade compared to the existing guidebooks. Still might be a sandbag...

This route follows the obvious, right-leaning hand crack on the west-facing wall at Practice Rock. Climb the crack up and right until you reach a ramp with an old quarter inch bolt. Continue up a few ledges to the bolt anchor above and slightly left. Alternatively, there is another bolted anchor to the right on the big ledge. This route is mislabeled as "Practice Crack" in the new Southwest Montana Rock guide.

This route climbs the broken crack system through the obvious bulge.  Rosebush starts out really melow at around 5.6 and climbs broken terrain, past a fixed nut.  Work your way under the bulge, place a couple cams and pull bulge/roof while placing a cam during or just before crux.  After this, the climb mellows significantly and climbs another 30 feet to anchors on the right.

Climb the right side of the arete to the right of the large ledge (described here as 'Last of the Wild Ones Variation'). From here continue straight up the face, placing one or two pieces of gear, to the two bolts high on the wall. The climbing starts easy, gets slightly harder past the first bolt, then punches you in the face at the second bolt. A very hard, very short boulder problem with multiple solutions and oodles of exposure will see you to the jug at the lip of the wall. Pull the airy mantle (gold star if you can make it look good), stand up, and clip the chains. Brilliant climbing, perfect rock and a memorable finish.

Climb the mixed line of bolts, while placing a couple cams along the way.  Start off with two cams, followed by a .5 camalot.  Just before the second bolt place a small C3 or alien, reach up high and clip the bolt.  After this, boldly move upwards on easier terrain with no pro for a good little jaunt.

This route follows the blocky, broken crack system to the left of Theoretically. Climb to a large ledge with rappel rings.

Drink of this and take thy fill for the water falls by the wizards will

While i didn't see

Merlin

while climbing this route, i was almost about to toss a couple of coins and wish for some non-human superpowers. Suspenseful and involved,

The Wizards Well

makes for an all-star extension to an already great route.

A continuation of

The Fiver

or

Theoretically

this bonus pitch is a magical ride into the unknown. This committing line breaks up and left off the large ledge and climbs up out of a roof towards a lone bolt on the face. Clip this and continue up a thin crack to the top of the wall. Fantastic movement, great exposure, good rock!  Walk off or rappel the route.

A worthy route with engaging climbing throughout. Fun 5.9 climbing with decent protection takes you to a ledge. From the ledge, clip the bolt just above and head straight up on good edges before a tricky move out left (crux) to series of pods in a crack. From the crack head straight up to the chains or continue past the chains up to the anchors or Wizard's Well (original line, pre bolts).

Note: The route was originally rated 5.9 R. Added bolts have made the climb no longer 'R' rated. The 5.9 rating seems to be a bit of a sandbag for the crux. Either way, a quality line.

Grade feedback to reach a consensus is appreciated and encouraged.

If you have  first ascent info or info on who put in the work to clean this route and add the chains, please message me so I can correct the page accordingly and make proper attributions.

Corrections to current description based on feedback from High Gravity. Thanks for your help and info.

Publishing this because this is probably the best beginner's trad lead close to Bozeman. Solid hand jams, ample other hands and feet, and short in length. Takes great gear too. Ends on a good sized ledge.

Descent:

Walk off right, 1-2 non-exposed down climb moves.

This is the easiest way to the top of the Pinnacle formation on the west side of Practice Rock. Climb the crack past the low crux to a good ledge. From here continue up the ramp. You can climb right against the main wall, but I prefer the crack system in the middle of the ramp. The last twenty feet or so are the best of the climb. It is a good hand crack to the finish. The top of the Pinnacle is a great spot. A small ledge with air on all sides!

There is a less popular 2nd pitch that steps onto the face, then a runout to the anchors to the left.

OW crack/chimney between the pinnacle and main wall (opposite side from the pinnacle standard route). Climb the lower off-width crack past some chock-stones then into a chimney to the top of the tower

A good, technical, face up a near dead-vertical wall. Thin, thin, edging on small chips and tip-sized crimps!

Begin on the

Pinnacle Standard Route

and climb it until you hit the 3 bolt face. Ascend the line over thin edges and past an odd, protectable bulge feature. Climb to a ledge and finish at a chain anchor. Great, delicate face climbing.

Begin this route by ascending on small holds past bolts on the face before a small traversing move onto a big, flat hold on the arete. Continue moving up the arete with big moves past another bolt, then back onto the face where the difficulty eases and a small crack system is encountered. Climb this crack/face on small to medium gear, exiting with a thoughtful move onto the ledge above, where it shares anchors with Theoretically.

Please note: this is the lower, moderate half of the Last of the Wild Ones. The full pitch continues around to the right of the Theoretically ledge and up steepening terrain past more bolts with difficult, powerful moves, trending back left to the top of the prow above the ledge. The route in it's entirety receives a rating in the 12b/c category.

It is also an option to continue up the final corner of "Tough Trip Through Paradise" as an addition to the lower half of the pitch. This would register the pitch at mid-range 5.11.

Start on the right side of the arete and climb thin, sharp crimps and pinches up and left following the bolts and arete to the top of the pinnacle. Thin and balancey.

The route begins about 20' up the Pinnacle Standard Route and climbs the face similar to Silent Rock. Stay on the face and clip bolts to a bolt anchor fitted with perma-links. If these get stolen or need to be replaced leave a comments. One may want to bring some gear to protect the short section of the Pinnacle Standard Route that must be climbed to reach the first bolt. An additional medium sized cam can be placed in a large flake in the middle of the route to protect a casual run-out.

Start this route with a reachy move to sustained finger jams. Next, shove your hands in the shallow/awkward hand crack and make progress towards the easier terrain above. Bolted anchor.

Starts on the North face of the Pinnacle, goes up a left facing dihedral to a roof. Pull up and through around the right, on to the west face. Finishes at the chains on top of the Pinnacle.

Another great trad line up the buttresses main face. Ample protection, great movement, and interesting features make this another must-do at the area. Start on a set of blocks and climb up to a small, leaning, mini-roof. Follow this feature to it's end and cross over on a slab to a vertical crack feature. Continue up into a shallow dihedral. Finish over a cruxy face at ledge with a chain anchor.

Route follows the obvious crack in the dihedral up to a ledge and then under the roof and continues to follow the crack and slanting ledge. Crux is traversing under the roof to the face.

Great rock, engaging movement, and good protection all combine to make this yet another classic Practice Rock outing. The route shares the start with Last of the Wild Ones. Begin here (Just around the corner from the start of Theoretically) and ascend upwards for roughly 15 feet, clipping a bolt before coming head level with a rightward traversing rail. A bolt above the rail protects this first crux. Pay attention to your feet as you move past this traverse and gain a seam, then continue upward on good crimps, past three bolts, to a good rest and lower angle crack system halfway up the wall. The bolts disappear here, but now you've got good gear. Climb through the steepening cracks, trending towards a steep, shallow, left facing corner system. Gain this corner and power through past a fixed pin (the second crux) to its top, with a stinger exit move. Above the corner you'll find a good stance with bolted anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Practice Rock