This is the longest sustained route to be done yet at the quarries... The first time i climbed it i was terrified and adrenaline played a big part in the ascent... I want back and did it again and though it was still nerve racking it should be safe if you land feet first... 

  Climb straight up under "the cunt" (thats one of the jumps) to a little ledge, try to dry off then head left toward the corner on little edges to a good top out.... A hold broke about 2/3 of the way up but it didnt look like it would effect the route too much...

The Grim

Don't Walk the Plank

Cement Shoes

Pinetree Slab

Casey's Crimpers

Cold Blooded Corner

Walk Off

It's been a while so it's a bit vague but basically there is a slab on the far left with some good holds here and there leading up to the trees.... Probably dont want to fall if you are soloing unless you get a good jump out from the wall...

Really just a couple boulder problems stacked on each other... You don't want to fall if you don't have a rope but you do have a ledge under each problem from what i remember...  

  not the best route in the area but something to do if you get sick of the normal scamble...

Climb/Walk a ramp feature up and left from the start of Casey's Crimpers... When you get to a roof feature pull over it and head up in to the woods.... You can avoid the crux roof to the left if i remember correctly... 

I toproped this line with my family many years ago, 1990's... But i called it Casey's Crimpers cause the first time i took Casey Jessman soloing here i looked over and he was calmly picking through the crimps toward the top like he owned it... 

  Climb the wall left of Cold Blooded Corner past the pot leaf painted there... Easy getting out of the water but harder up high on the crimpy blankish wall... Easy top out...

I havent climbed this one out of the water yet but i did do it on TR... The walls are very smooth and slick when you are wet so that makes it really hard... There is a jutting rock under the water that makes falling a bad idea... 

  Basically climb the corner to the top.... Lay backs and fingerlocks abound... The climbing gets easier as you go... 

  The name comes from when i fell through the ice while aiding the route...haha good times...

This is the traditional way to get back up when you are swimming here... If so many drunk people have done it over the years it's gotta be pretty cruser...

This place can get a little crazy at times. I have narrowly escaped getting in fights with drunk dudes (and a crazy chick) more than once. I could tell you stories, but I won't because I'm here to talk about climbing. So here is the deal: 

  Cliffs up to 40+ feet that host a handful of lines. The water isn't as clear as the little quarry but the cliffs are bigger and that's just cool. I put up a line up the highest part of the cliff about 10 years ago i later called it The Grim (hard to grade but I'd say 5.11) this is still my favorite climb there. There are a few others as well but i don't think any have names yet.  

  Come here have some fun. Chill out on the county seat, a cool pile of rocks overlooking concord and the surrounding area. Just give the drunk locals some room and you will be fine.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Big Quarry aka "Tadpole Quarry"