On the bottom of the rock, there are several ways to get to the mantle shelf. This one is the most difficult that I am aware of. Start on the low holds (good right hand, and slopey left). Locate a half-inch X 3" wide incut for the left hand that runs horizontally approximately 16" above the starting holds. GO THERE with the left, now locate the 1/4" diagonal crimp, and go there with the right hand. From these two holds, (it is hard to just hang from them) go to the mantle shelf.

Magic Trick

Hank's Slab

Aretable Bowel Syndrome ABS

Finger Dimple

Spike Mantel

Cocaine Corner (submitted as Spike Arete)

Crimp variations

This may be a new route. It follows the lower arete on Spike Rock on the right side of the overhanging face. The lower you start the more difficult it is. Right hand starts on the right face, micro sidepull, left on regular starting hold. Right hand stays on the right side of the arete, left hand on the left (overhang) side. Many variations, harder and easier.

Video on Youtube

youtube.com/watch?v=ARCA2NN…

May be harder than V-4?

This is a narrow slab with small holds.  It climbs the slab directly. Don't use the arete or the blocky stuff on your right.

I dont know the real name for this route so I have used its prominent feature. Sit start, hands on the starting hold; LONG reach up and right to the arete about 2 ft below the top to a finger dimple just around the arete; dyno or static to the mantle top. The key is the left foot.

This problem is a sit start on the overhanging west face of Spike Rock next to the tree. A solid pull from the start leads to good holds and a fun mantel. It is short but enjoyable. The crux is actually first move. The mantel can be done by throwing a leg up right or left, but left is probably easier.

This problem would get more stars if it were any longer, but it's like 4 moves. Hopefully the flakes under the lip will hold out, as they are a little flexy. Once again on the name...I couldn't remember if there was a designated name for this thing, so feel free to pipe in.

This is the aesthetic south prow of Spike Rock. I decided to be a dipshit and call it the "Arete", not completely sure of a designated name.

Eds.

MP.com

users identified this as Cocaine Corner.

The true problem starts all the way at the bottom of the arete and actually makes a move around the corner to get situated on the arete, but many people start on the good lieback holds. Footholds are the key on this one, and if they cut, you're out of luck. A cruxy pull or two midway up the arete leads to good holds and the top. This is a worthy and extremely fun line. It feels like a highball.

Per

Greg Twombly

: this is a great classic boulder problem with a bad landing on a sloping slab. Start as low as possible on the left side of the arete, and follow it to the top. You get extra points for the sit start.

A video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9dXuL-aQVI

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Eds. This is a combination of two submissions for the same route. To avoid duplication and confusion, the 2nd submission's info, photos, ticks, stars are moved here, and that submission was deleted.

Sit start under the tree. Many variations possible - the best two are:

(1) V4 start with hands on the starting hold and reach to the horizontal sloper above and right of the flake. Match and go to the top;

(2) V6 start on the crimpers above and right of the big starting hold; to the crimp above left; then to the horizontal or straight to the top. The key is footwork.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Spike Rock