Hard moves over a roof (the crux) to a strenuous handcrack lead to a ledge with rap anchor. The upper part is seldom done but continues up steep and varied crack climbing.

Crime of the Century

Bakersfield

The Ridiculous Finish

Ulnar Nerve

Way of Life

Ulna

Hard Times

Don't Think Just Jump

Trauma Traverse

Global Revolution

Frankenwood

Humerous

Time in the Penitentiary (aka: Two Flew the Coop)

Knightshift

No Place for a Puritan

Young Tree

Fresno

Joyride

Thunderwood

Funny Bone

Norwegian Wood

Radius

This was originally done as a TR off of the Crime of the Century midpoint anchor. It now goes to the top of the cliff, joining the Crime of the Century chimney near the top.

Begin 8 feet left of CoC on a juggy, left-trending overhang to a bolt at the lip.

The climb then wanders up the face, paralleling the CoC crack for 80 feet, passing 6 bolts and supplemental gear, to the base of the COC chimney.

Either traverse left and lower off the Humerous anchor or continue up the CoC chimney to the summit. For the most bang for your buck, link this up with the 5.11b Ridiculous Finish.

Crux between 3rd and 4th bolts.

Can be toproped after climbing Humerous or Funnybone.

This is the wide crack at the left end of the N. Face of Snickers. I believe it is the last established route on this side of the cliff. It's been around for awhile now, but has seen very few ascents.

From the Humerous anchor, this direct finish continues straight up on slightly overhanging face climbing past 2 bolts to the top of the overhanging block, where there is a 2-bolt rappel/lower-off anchor (100 feet).

This three bolt variation to Funny Bone starts about 20' to the left of that route.  Climb past three bolts, with an optional small cam between the first and second bolts.  Continue on to Funny Bone about 1/4 of the way up that route (another possible exit to the left).

Still a bit scrappy, but could be a worthwhile diversion on a warm day.

Climb up 5.7 ramp to six bolts that traverse out right for 30 ft.  Straight forward movements until the end, beware of loose blocks and grit. Distinctly uncharacteristic of Joshua Tree climbing, worth doing.

A slightly harder variation can be done at the last bolt.

Start about eight feet left of

Funny Bone

at an obvious, vertical seam/corner. Climb up along the somewhat gritty fissure to the large ledge at mid-height. Finish as for

Funny Bone

.

Rappel with one rope from the anchor atop

Humerus

. The route can be top roped from that anchor.

Pulling down on sweet edges past the second bolt is fairly heady then move right on the ever steeping slab clipping bolts to the start of the crux. Layback the ear past 2 bolts clip another bolt off the horizontal holds above the ear then traverse left to the anchors.

Scamper up a short left-facing corner to a stance below a shallow, oblique corner which is stemmed to another small stance. From here make some thoughtful moves (5.10-) up and left to get established in the left of two slanting crack systems which ends at a ledge; at the crux shorter climbers are advised to take a hint from the name! Finish the route by climbing slightly left to join the upper half of Humerous, which has a few gear placements and two bolts and features fun climbing on incut edges up a steep face. Belay/rap from the Humerous anchors.

While easily overlooked this route should not be, as it presents the climber with an interesting variety of moves on mostly good rock. The route can be finished via the route

Funny Bone

but the newer finish up Humerous is much better, with less rope drag and more interesting moves. Two stars out of five.

First pitch is the crux of this route. Clip the first bolt of Young Tree, mantle onto the ledge then go straight up past some tricky 5.10 face climbing past two more bolts that gets you to the start of the traverse. Squeeze into the rest and contemplate eighty feet of straight left traversing. Clip a mix of cams and bolts until you clip the last bolt. Tricky moves into the Alpine Diversions crack (A little run out!) for gear then your looking at the crux. Start at No Place For a Puritan to do the easier last four pitches. climb up the crack about ten feet then start traversing left on the under clings and slab for the feet.

100 ft. right of hard times find this steep and well protected sport route. A left trending overhanging traverse past two bolts gets you to the business. Thin finger laybacking left trending climbing until your in a corner. Stays pumpy. Excellent rock.

The route starts with bouldery moves up a slightly right leaning dihedral. Pro looks a little awkward to place in the thin crack of the dihedral. Continue up easy scrambling moves to the base of a dike/lieback crack just left of a very easy finish. Lieback the crack past a crystal knob and a face move to the top. Easily TR'ed off the convenience anchor found at the top. Definitely worth climbing but maybe without the stress of being on lead!

Located on the North Face of Snickers. Begin about 10 feet right of the high point of the base of the rock (10 feet right of Funny Bone and left of Don't Think Just Jump).

Up the face past 2 bolts (10b) then up easy horizontals to an upper face past 2 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The upper section seems a bit contrived, but is OK.

Much like its neighbor to the left, Crime of the Century,

Time in the Penitentiary

start with difficult overhanging moves.  The first technical crux comes early, with a tricky set of moves.  Continue through the upper part of the roof and move left through some flakes to the level of the Crime of the Century anchor. Gear appears as needed, and you'll never get too run out.

From the ledge, clip a pin and set up for the second crux.  A bomber .75 Camalot protects another roof with thin moves.  Moving through juggy patina finishes the 2nd half of the route.

Climb the easy crack system to a ledge. Clip a bolt and pull  bouldery moves up to a hidden incut hold. Rock quality up to and past the second bolt is not very good but the roof is the reward. Use the crack under the roof to clip the bolt then go. Steep!

Just to the right of Global Revolution. Climb up the left side of a large shelf. Clip a bolt then do an awkward mantel on to the shelf. Clip the bolt to your right and keep moving right around the corner to a good stance. Lay back up then right to get you on to the shelf and the start of the crux on excellent rock.

Fresno has crack and face climbing past 4 bolts. This climb has been around for while, but just missed being in Randy's original guide, so it has remained " a sleeper " for all these years.  It has have very few ascents.

Begin as per Norwegian Wood, but head up and right on clean looking, greyish rock past 4 bolts (11c) to horizontals. Above continue up gritty rock past 4 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor; 90 foot rap/lower.

If the upper section of the route gets more traffic (cleans up), it would be a 2 of 3 star (or 3 of 5 star) route. As is 2 of 5 stars.

Starting just below and left of the predominate corner of Norwegian Wood you'll find the base and start of this experience.  Opening moves over green lichen gain you the first bolt in a small right facing corner.   Trending up and slightly left across a sharp dyke system and up through the face crossing over middle banding of this wall.  Bolts are nicely placed with only one section through easier ground that has a larger spacing pattern.   Moving beyond the 4th bolt is undoubtably the crux.  Leader and three other partners were unable to make the move beyond without AO assistance.  Grainy flakes and sketchy rock was not instilling confidence in any of the team.  A short flared hand-crack above leads to the final and probably best moves of the entire route before reaching the bolted anchor.

Rock quality is suspect.  Exfoliating doesn't fully describe the grains and large plates that are ready to detach.  Belayers beware and rocks from above could be headed your way.

Peer pressure and peer pressure alone is rating this route with 1 star.  Length is nice as well as bolt placement but the quality of this line is not desirable.  If you're into grainy ascents thinking it's part of the Joshua Tree experience you may walk away with some satisfaction.

This quality route is almost all on good gray varnish. Interesting moves past thin cracks lead to a ledgy area 1/2 way up. More interesting and steeper moves up thin cracks in a flared slot lead top a ledge just below the top. Rap off from bolts or continue up a funky thin crack (5.8/9), the chimney just right (5.9) or walk off left.

This long and varied route, first climbed by a JT local and some visiting Norwegians, starts with a bouldery move onto a ledge and then moves up a right-facing corner with a thin crack that gradually widens as the corner gets steeper. Higher, pass a section with some gritty horizontals (stay left) and continue above in a hand-size crack that turns into an offset fist crack/ow at the top - despite the sound of it good jams can be had in the back and footholds are plentiful making it less of a thrutch than it may seem - the crack narrows at the very top to hands and conludes with a pull onto the level top with a nice view of the desert below.

Gear belay and descend by walking off or making a single rope rap (100') off chain anchors about 40' to the right (above Frankenwood).

This is, for the grade, one of the better crack routes in the area with it's varied moves, good rock and length factored in. Don't forget at least one large cam (4") for the top. Three stars out of five.

Start just to the right of

Funny Bone

.

Climb the varnished face between

Funny Bone

and

Humerus

to the mid-height ledge.

This line can be top roped from the

Humerus

anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Snickers - North Face