On 7/3/99 I climbed this route.  Desperate slab climbing without a dihedral or crack.  Dennis Horning said it had not been climbed yet and offered me the FA after he was unable to climb it a couple of times.

Astro Glide

Mystery Express

Park Politics

Up In Smoke

Buster Cattlefield

Digital Extraction

Deadwood Express

Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset)

Spank The Monkey

No Holds for Bonzo

Carol's Crack

Tulgey Wood

Avalon

Way Layed

Harkness variation

Carl's Face

Jerry's Kids

Scottfree

Mr. Clean

Zen & the Art of Route Development

Burning Down the House

Blotter is my Spotter

Dead Point

Pee Pee's Plunge

Brokedown Palace

Good Holds for Godzilla

Captain Ingram's Partisan Rangers

California Dreaming

Livin' the Dream

Billie Bear Cranks the Rad

Bloodguard

McCarthy West Face (Variant)

Double Feature

Man Without a Planet

El Matador

One Way Sunset

Some Like it Hot

La Vaca Solitaria

Lack of Enthusiasm

Out of Sync

A Bridge Too Far

Fractal

Heatwave

McCarthy West Face/Hong

Approaching Lavender

Steal Away

411 Southwest

Very nice face climbing along a grassy seam.  This is a great direct start to the all time classic finger crack of One Way Sunset.  No fixed gear with this start and a pure line.  Well worth doing.  Crux is near the top just before it joins the regular start.  Insecure and foot intensive for several moves at the crux. Books all say 12a.  May be soft for the grade.  The Wrong Way start by itself does not warrant 4 stars but when combined with the finger crack on One Way Sunset it is a super classic pitch.

Climb the arete right of Tulgey Wood, following small crimps and footholds up the most prominent column on the west face. This route is sustained, with multiple hard moves and thin climbing throughout. Some flakes on the right face are loose, but most holds are solid. This is the hardest established route at Devils Tower.

Starts by climbing a thin slab and crack that leads to the obvious roof. Pull the roof, and follow the thin crack to a 2 bolt anchor. 130'.  Although run-out during the lower and easier slab (5.9ish), the crux is well protected with small and offset cams

This is a very worthwhile route to do if in the area.  It makes a great warm-up for one of the super classic W. Face routes.  Nice face and arete moves on good rock.

'Buster Cattlefield' is a sustained stemming route with no real crux.  lots and lots of stemming and palming, with a traverse at the top.

This is an excellent climb with lots of places for small gear (hence its original name "Made for Aid"). First pitch gets you started with a thin layback/tips crack with crux sections separated by incuts for stances.(11c 110 ft). Second pitch starts out spicy with a bad button head, a pin, and small cams/nuts for protection. The crack then opens to unrelenting fingers/tips with no real rest until the last 20 feet, after the rest fire the crux(11d 140 ft). I have not done the third pitch, looks like hands? Can be rappelled with a single 80 meter rope.

'Deadwood Express' starts directly above 'Raindance'.

P1: climb either 'carols crack' or 'raindance' (5.10a); although carols can be clean aidied 100'.

P2 climb up the right facing dihedral on direct aid using mostly bugaboos and blades, (although small tcus and nuts are useful) (A2-), until possible to traverse right on a horizontal to the 'approaching lavender' anchors.

rappel

Steve Gardiner's guidebook says "Destined to become another short West face classic".  INDEED!  The first half of the pitch is a fun 5.8 hand crack that many consider "tricky"... and the second half is nothing short of incredible.  Face moves and a thin crack in the dihedral really mix it up.  Keep your head... the crux moves come in the final 20 feet.

Bonzo might not have had much, but you will. No Holds offers a variety of finger jams, stemming, face climbing and even some possible chimneying all in one pitch. Rarely climbed, but definitely deserving of more attenion. Climb over a bulge and into the corner, following this to the top of the pitch. Unfortunately, this route is often grassy. It can be cleaned on rappel from the Potatoes Alien anchors.

One of the finest routes we did at Devil's Tower, and it even remains open when the rest of the West Face is closed for Falcons!

Approach this route via the West Face trail and skirt the left-hand edge of the trial towards to great routes, One Way Sunset and Carol's Crack. Both of these 3* routes are near the north-most edge of the West Face.

I could tell you to look for a primarily right facing corner system that starts low angle and gets progressively steeper as you climb upward. That describes 1/2 of the climbs at the tower though. The other half are left-facing. In any case, this is the 2nd right facing system to the right of where the major broken recess is on the NW corner.

Until a picture is directly associated with this description, owning the guidebook may be necessary to find the climb.

P1: (100' 5.10a)  Climb a thin hand to finger crack to fixed anchors in the corner.  A set of cams protects this, with the crux being near the top.  A good pitch, but not a great pitch.

P2: (160' 5.11a) Sustained. Climb a thin crack for a long way- my partner placed 20 pieces of gear on this lead. 1/2 way up there is a step out to a no-hands rest on the Arete to the left. Near the top the crack gets wider and easier.  Belay at fixed anchors.  This is the classic pitch!

P3: You can continue up through 5.7 corner territory (80') and then on chimneys and cracks to the top (150').  We did not do so, as we had seen a falcon near the top and did not wish to agitate it.  In either case, the rock is not as good now, and the fun part is over.

An excellent route which will test all of your crack climing techniques.  This route starts in a left facing dihederal on the south end of the west face just right of a tree and 2 cracks to the left of the 5.10 version of Mcarthy West Face.

The first pitch (10a) is fun and continuous with thin fingers & liebacking up the corner to a belay on top of the column on the left.  Pitch 2 heads up a short corner (10a)to another ledge.  These pitches could probably be combined with a 60m rope.  The third pitch is the meat of the climb.  Continue up the obvious crack in the left-facing corner.  Although it is "easier" at 5.9 it is wide, continous, and gets more steep as you go for a long 160+ feet.  From here you can do some poor climbing up chimneys to reach the summit or do two long raps on double ropes form bolts.

Mark Morehouse

Climb any route to get to the large ledge at the base of the obvious huge roof (Avalon/Brokedown Palace) near the left-center of the West face. Of the usual options, Jerry's Kids is the most even and well-protected. Avalon takes the left-hand crack up and out the left side of the obvious roof. The section off the ledge is the crux (11d), with a small fingercrack and face edges leading up to a (surprise) no-hands rest below the roof. The climbing eases here and continues above the roof to a semi-hanging belay. The next pitch (11c) continues above on the nice finger crack, with rests, for 2/3 a rope length to a belay below the choss.

Avalon is one of the finest hard-11 routes on the Tower, with outstanding rock, superb moves, and very good protection.

FA Eric Rhicard and Mark Smedley 1981

Another beautiful stemming pitch. 2 stars at the Tower, 3 stars anywhere else.

This pitch climbs the right side of the pillar directly below the fist crack pitch of Tugley Wood. It is the crack directly left of the 5.9+ first pitch of McCarthy West Face. It's a long pitch, but what else is new at Devil's Tower?

Set a high belay, and stem the thin corner. There are many difficult sections on this pitch with good stances from time to time. The guidebook calls the small roof at mid-height the crux, but it really isn't much more difficult than the rest of the climb. The crack eventually widens to hands... another good rest follows before some more cruxy business exiting the corner.

A double 60m rope rappel will, just barely, deposit you at the staging area at the start to El Matador.

This is the huge left-facing dihedral on the right side of the west face, clearly visible from the parking lot. Begin by climbing "Conquistador" to "Abject Cathexis", a crack system on the right side of the massive left facing dihedral.

I soloed this in June '05 and removed what appeared to be the anchor at the high point for the FA party of Abject Cathexis (A3). I'm not sure why they decided to bail at this point, but the route continues up through the obvious crack system that eventually deteriorates into the typical choss found at the top of all routes. Some loose rock, but otherwise a fun route. I could see this route possibly going hammerless; maybe even free.

Two routes right of Carol's Crack, Carl's Face climbs the obvious arete.  Balancy face climbing.

Although probably not a route that you're going to roadtrip to the Tower to do, this pitch is pretty worthwhile, especially as a warmup for MR. CLEAN (if TULGEY WOOD is occupied).  Some stemming (can ya believe that?), a small roof or two, and generally "cerebral" the whole way- not just a stem-it or plug-it pitch, but one to get those neurons firing...

Climb over a bolt-protected bulge just right of the anchor. Another bolt gets you to a rest beneath the corner. Stem and jam the tips crack that slowly widens to big fingers and some thin hands. This route is relentlessly sustained, with thin moves throughout. The bottom of the crack requires careful placements with small gear.

This climb is unbelieveable.  You will want to lick your fingers when you are done just to make sure you got it all.  Begin about 20 feet left of Tugley Wood.  Look for the obvious small, bright yellow roof about forty feet up.  Begin with a short, enjoyable approach pitch that brings one to a stance with chains below the roof.  Pitch 2 is the crux.  Fire through the roof (single crux move) then continue for a full-value pitch up the incredibly sustained fingers and thin-hands crack.  This pitch is probably about 165 feet long with no truly great rests.  The are chains at the top of the pitch.  Keep your eyes open for feet out on the left face, they will save you.  Pitch 3 looks fun and goes at .10a, but most parties rap at the top of the second pitch.  Another great .11a testpiece very similar to Carol's crack, but slightly easier

Begin on 'Blotter Is My Spotter'. Be carful on the opening move as you start on a small detached block. Climb up until you reach the fracture system on the right hand column. Climb the fracture to its end and move right to the anchors. 5.10a 125ft

Well protected & varied. Zen shares anchors with 'Park Politics'

A fun addition to the 10a circuit on the West.

The arete between Fractal and P1 of Synchronicity. Start up a slabby shallow dihedral (5.7) up to a small roof on the arete proper, climb left and up onto the steep headwall. Scale this on good squarecut slots and crimps with decent cams in the slots. At the top of the headwall the holds disappear for a bit, forcing you into a cruxy step right and then back left and into a small corner. Continue up the runout slabby upper arete (5.7 R) directly to the anchors on Fractal.

Good climbing and adequate pro. Led on-sight, ground up, cleaned on lead. With a bit more cleaning and some traffic this should clean up nicely!

P1. straight foward aid leads to a thin section requiring beaks, rurps and stacks. (A3+) 140'.

P2. as many blades as you can bring, a marathon of a pitch. (A2+) 165'.

P3. Thin aid mixed with a few larger pieces in bad rock lead to a point where one is forced to free climb. (5.5, A4-) 100'

P4. 'The Kor Chimney', shares the same exit as 'Saber'. Follow the left leaning chimney right side in. (5.6) 100'

If you're getting bored with all of the immaculate 5.11 finger cracks on the Tower, give this little anomaly a try. Although its diminutive stature seems inviting from the base, it provides full value! It's definitely not the locker finger crack it looks like, but rather is flared and shallow. Dial in your footwork and get creative, cause this thing will have you cranking all sorts of strange sequences on insecure flared jams and lots of techy feet. Stays on you to the anchors.

This Devils Tower forbidden classic is often overlooked in favor of its many mediocre neighbors (like Mr. Clean).  This route forces you to use all of your finely honed Tower skills, including wide stemming, face climbing, and desperate jamming, all while using gear you would not want to hang your grandmother's underwear off of.  Fabulous movement with 5-star tenuous stances.  You just might pee pee your pants.

Do not miss this route!  Beware: Devils Tower Rangers have been known to ticket climbers who ignore this ultra-mega-classic.

"Brokedown Palace" follows the line out the right side of the big pentagonal roof in the middle of the west face. The second pitch is the crux pitch and offers some of the best hard,steep corner and roof climbing on the tower,it is very well protected with small nuts and cams. The third pitch is beautiful 5.11c crack climbing. The first pitch is not stellar at all but a way to get to the next ones, and I never did the last pitch. The end of the third pitch had no fixed anchors when I climbed it.

This is a wickedly hard and varied route offering everything from finger crack climbing, wide stemming, and hard crimping.  I TR'd this route from the No Holds for Bonzo/ Potatoes Alien anchor with a directional.  This route is described in the NPS route index as "3+ out of 3 stars."  The anchor for this route was replaced by Gabe Skiera in August 2021.

This is the first pitch of the original aid line "Luck of the Draw" FA Frank Sanders & Pat Kingsbury.

Climb the crack one left of Mr. Clean. Use face, crack & stemming to reach the anchors. Gear can be tricky.

This is a very enjoyable & safe single pitch on the West.

Can be top roped when rappelling down Mr. Clean.

CALIFORNIA DREAMING (aka Kernal Sandfly) is a sweet route.  A little easy face climbing to get started, and then it's a full-on stem-fest for most of the pitch.  Although no single move approaches .11b in difficulty, the grade takes the "Tower enduro factor" into account (not a long pitch by Tower standards, but the calves will probably be talking by the time it's over).  Interesting features on the right wall and a good rest at 2/3 height help keep the difficulties manageable.

Do the amazing first pitch of One Way Sunset to get warmed up.  From the bolted anchor traverse up and left into the beautiful right facing dihedral.  After about 10 feet you can clip the first of six bolts.  The next 60 feet is unrelenting stemming with no real hand holds or good rests.  The bolts are very well placed and the falls would not be too bad.  After the sixth bolt you can get a good rest out to the right on a nice little ledge.  The upper part of the pitch is easier and protects with gear.  Rappel from bolts back to the One Way Sunset anchor.  We made it easy with a single 70m rope.

Climb pitch one of Oneway Sunset. At the 1st belay go left onto California Dreaming. At the chains for California Dreaming keep going up to the big roof. Stem your way out the roof out onto the face. A #1 WC Rock mid roof and a 3/8" RB at the lip protect the moves out the roof. Follow the thin crack up to the crux and a two bolt anchor. Continue up the crack using a combination of stemming, jamming and face moves. Follow this corner crack system to the top. A belay could be set at the Cali. Dreaming chain anchor but running it all together makes for one excellent long pitch. Rap the route.

Fingers! Billie Bear climbs a thin crack at the bottom of the huge dihedral on the West Face's right side. Pick your way up the delicate climbing down low on Abject Cathexis until you reach the horizontal break. Traverse right into another finger crack that steepens and leans slightly left. Follow this to the top of the column that makes up the left side of the South West Buttress. Clean, sequential, pumpy, and difficult, but with excellent pro. Crank it!

This may very well be one of the best hard finger cracks in North America.  Rated anywhere between 11c to 12a in the various guidebooks I've seen, I'll post it as 11+.  Even then, it feels like somewhat of a testpiece at hard-5.11.

Begin just to the left of the starts to Jerry's Kids and Avalon (just left of the pentagonal roof at mid-height in the picture below) .  Scramble up to the finger crack which becomes increasingly difficult with height.  A long rope stretcher pitch with the last 15 foot crux section consisting of desperate tips jamming and/or offset liebacking.

A super-fun route on the west face.  This is apparently a good way to summit on the west face, but most parties do not climb beyond the 2nd pitch.  The description here only includes the 1st 2 pitches.  The 1st pitch is very popular.

This climb can be identified by the prominent roof on the first pitch.  The 2nd pitch is directly left of the column forming the left wall of El Matador's stem box.

P1- beginning just to the left of the start of El Matador, scramble easily up to a flake below the obvious roof.  The right-hand variation around the roof is the HONG VARIATION (11b) while the left hand variation is 5.9+.  Climb the thin hand crack on the left over the bulge (crux).  Continue upward past some fun stemming to a bolted belay.

P2- From the belay, the crack heading directly upward to the top of the El matador column is 11c.  The W Face Variant takes the crack on the left over a large roof to the steep, endless hand crack above.Climb up the left hand crack and pull the very-difficult roof (crux)... a stem-rest comes right afterward.  The roof is protected by a bolt though excellent gear can be placed in the crack. Now that the crux is over, continue more easily, though relentlessly, up the hand crack.  This is a long and very-sustained hand-crack... stemming helps.

Continue upwards to the summit (my guess is this isn't done too often) or 2 double rope raps to the ground

Double Feature begins in the first crack left of the obvious Vulture pillar/crack and two cracks right of Jerry's Kids on the West Face. This is the same start as Pee Pee's Plunge, but quickly steps left into the next crack system. Protection is good, but this route does not lace as easily as most Tower lines. The main crux comes at about 2/3 height, just above a locker nut and good rest, and involves splayed stemming and face moves that ease a bit at a bolt. Depending on the season, the crack just below the bolt can be grassy, hiding some decent HB placements. The route then angles up and left, across a superb shield of rock, passing two more bolts and one milder crux to the JK belay.

This is a high quality route that would be 3 stars anywhere else. At the Tower, there is just too much competition.

Certainly not a classic West Face pitch, but it's close to Fractal and Deli Express and worth a spin if you're over here and looking for one more pitch in that grade range. Tends to be a bit mungy, but much of the route is face climbing so the overgrown crack isn't too big a problem except for gardening out gear. Like most of the face routes on the Tower, the climbing is provocative and creative.

This is the classic box stem on the far south end of the west face easily visable from the trailhead at the parking lot. Expect tourist gawkers on this route. There is good reason for them to stare, this is one of the most unique and classic climbs in the country.

Pitch 1, 30m: Climb the ramp and short section of 5.8 to get to a big ledge on top of a broken column at the base of the box.

Pitch 2, 38m: This is the pitch you've heard about. Climb up setting gear in the crack on the left when ever you feel like it. There are some good jams and fingerlocks on your way, but you must stem your legs and in some places pure stemming is the only option. Move fast and fight the burn. Easier for taller people, but the box narrows as you get higher. Belay at the top of the lefthand column. They say no move is harder than 5.9, but endurace and pain threshold are the keys here!

P3, 13m: Climb the near-vertical hand crack directly above the belay 40 ft to large ledge with two bolts. (5.8 fun)

P4: Jam the left crack on the ledge (you do not step off the ledge to reach this crack) for about 15 ft until you can clip a pin on the left wall. The pin looked marginal so I placed a bomber large stopper. Traverse straight right on good feet to the right crack. Now place some small wires and balance up to the roof, place a small cam and crank over on finger locks (10a crux). Climb over one more small roof and a short #.75 C4 crack (5.9) to a stance with two bolts. ~90ft

P5: Climb the rotten chimney directly above (5.4) until you reach a large ledge directly below the summit. Be extremely careful not to knock any of the loose blocks in the chimney down as they will funnel directly into the stacked up climbers waiting to climb the first two pitches! From here you can climb the easier looking chimney to the left(5.4?), or the hard-to-protect crack/face directly in front of you (5.7) to two bolts. Once again be very careful what you pull on. ~150 ft

The loose rock on the last pitch is avoidable, just something to be aware of.

The standard rap descent is on the far side of the tower. It would be possible to rap the route with 2 60m ropes but you would risk dropping your rope or rocks on someone climbing below.

Most people only climb to the top of pitch 2. From the ledge on top of pitch 2 you have 3 options to descend: (1) with 2 70m ropes do a clean 68m double rope rappel back to the packs, (2) with a single 70 rap down McCarthy West in 2 rappels, or (3) descend  El Matador in 2 rappels with 2 ropes (2 60s or 2 50s are fine) or a single 80m rope.

Another fine route at Devil's Tower, and with more balanced difficulty- fun for everyone and in a variety of sizes!Like Carol's crack, this remains open when the rest of the West Face is closed for Falcons!

Approach this route via the West Face trail and skirt the left-hand edge of the trial towards the north-most edge of the West Face.  You will see a double hanging roof where two pillars are broken off from below.  This route ascends the system that goes up between them after a few hundred feet.  Until a picture is directly associated with this description, owning the guidebook may be necessary to find the climb.

P1: 150' 5.10c From the face below this system, traverse out and up right to a near-splitter finger crack.  About 90' up or so a long crux sequence begins.  This is more technical than physical and is not terribly pumpy. The crux protects on TCU's and stoppers.  Climb to fixed anchors on a sloping ledge below a small roof.  A 3-star pitch by its own merit.

P2: 130' 5.9 Jam up on hands and thin hands through the bulge above and get into the splitter which gets wider in some spots- this is where the bigger cams will go. You will arrive at a ledge with a good fixed anchor after over 1/2 rope length of sustained good climbing. From here you can get great photos of teams on Carol's Crack. This is a two or three-star pitch as well. Most people rap from here, as the rock does not improve. if you've taken enough gear though, and a 70M rope, you can run this right into the next pitch!

P3: 70' 5.9 You can continue up through 5.9 crack territory (70') to reach another ledge with another fixed anchor. If this pitch was done independently, you can run it into P4, if you like.

P4: 80' 5.8.  Worm up the overhanging chimney above. It doesn't look to appetizing, and we decided not to do this pitch and rap off instead.  If you do P4, you can once again hit the summit, however, via P5...

P5: 70' 5.easy Reportedly a traverse left and up various cracks deposits the climber atop the rock.  This makes descent complex, however, and the climbing doesn't look spectacular.

Begin on the west face, left of Mr. Clean. Climb One O'Clock Demo or the first pitch of the Howling to a ledge with bolt anchors. Climb a crack just left of the anchor for 15 ft, then traverse into a second crack with a small bulge, following this to a ledge on the right and a bolt anchor. This route involves thin fingers, stemming, and face climbing.

If you still have gas in your tank... and feeling in your calves... complete this variation to El Mat.  Very thin fingers and (surprise) stemming beckon you  to step right off of the El Mat ledge.  Climb to the gray roofs and traverse left to rejoin the El Mat line to a "lovely" (note the sarcasm) bolted hanging belay.

This arete was bolted on lead and does have some enjoyable movement for the first 9 clips.  The crux comes at the end with a traverse to the left and the anchors.  The guidebook says that it is 12a if you are short, but I found it very difficult being tall.  There are poor feet with polished rock.  The bolts are closely spaced, so you could swing over to the adjacent crack if you can't figure out the moves.

There is a mix of interesting hangers on this route, but overall it is a safe lead.

A good, long pitch of mostly clean placements that will require some typical Tower gardening to excavate. Almost entirely bomber gear, with a few thinner spots. 3 pins were placed on the FA, but this should go without them using some more clean-aid ingenuity.

Follow the crack directly above the left side of the roof over the belay atop Fractal. The first bit is the thinnest. At a distinct horizontal break where the crack ends, move left into the stembox of Synchronicity, clean aid up it 15' or so, and again cut left with free moves along a blocky handrail/crack into the belay atop P2 of One Way Sunset. Rap that (can swing back over to Fractal anchors if you leave things there) with double 60m ropes.

A remarkable stem problem that Steve Hong claimed would be, "impossible for people under 5'6"". Don't know if this is true, but most of the pitch requires splits-style stemming between the good corner on the right and incipient features on the left...flexibility is a must! A bolt protects the crux section at about 1/3 height. The upper bit eases off as a shallow corner-crack materializes on the left. Those legs will be worked by the top! A proud lead or a great TR from the anchors on P1 of Tulgey Wood.

This is a VERY enjoyable pitch with excellent protection.  Another Tower dihedral which utilizes stemming and a few face moves.  The crux comes about 20 or so feet below the anchors.

P1. climb either 'man w/o a planet' (.10a) or 'lack of enthusiasm'(.11?) 125'. P2. follow the straight in crack on thin aid to a 2 bolt anchor. (A2+), 75'.

P3. Follow the now right facing dihedral on sustained thin placements including peckers and heads until possible to pendulum from a fixed rurp right 10' to a two bolt anchor. (A3), 165'

This route takes the typically combined Hong Variation to McCarthy West Face, and is yet another brilliant route that graces the West Face. Begin two cracks left of the start to the obvious El Matador, and pass two cruxes on the first pitch: a layback/finger crack over a roof (11b), and then just below the belay ledge is a slightly easier (11a/b) mantle/face problem. The stunning second pitch (11c) takes the much-photographed splitter on the right, starting with thin hands and then stemming out left and up the thinning crack to a final crank up and right (crux) to the top of the column. Bomber gear the whole way. A beautiful and extremely fine climb.

Another challenging 11 at the Tower, and right in the middle of a classic sector. Excellent gear.

P1

(11c, 140')

Climb the first 40' of One Way Sunset then go left where One Way goes right (just below two skecthy, jutting pins). Traverse left across the face on good holds to gain the main crack at a slight bulge. Work the funky, off balance angles to a good rest at 2/3 height. Get past a punchy crux then continue to the hanging, bolted belay on the right wall.

P2

(11b, 80)

Keep the sustained stemming going to the yellow, subtle roof and find the anchors on the left.

Variation;

The Rosen Variation is a direct start to the first pitch, tackling the overhanging, right facing dihedral. This goes at 5.10d and looks a little hard to protect.

Steal Away is a bolted face route that starts from the Southwest Buttress, a prominent ledge feature at the south end of the West Face.  Climb up a small ramp to the right, and then meander up toward the overhang above.  Step right and face climb(crux)past the overhang to a two-bolt anchor.

One can also climb directly through the overhang (bolts) and then traverse back onto the original route.  This variation is called The Lander Girls, and is 5.12a.

The route consists of high quality, and somewhat sustained face climbing.  Rock quality is very good and the protection is excellent.  It was hoped that the route would continue higher but the rock quality deteriorated dramatically.

411 Southwest starts one crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route.  Start up this crack and then traverse left past a bolt to the next crack.  Now use the crack, and edges and flakes on the face and arete to the left, to climb past 4 bolts (first crux).  Continue up placing small gear until you reach the next bolts, passing a two-bolt anchor on the right.  Climb past these bolts (second crux) and then continuous 5.10/5.11 climbing will get you to the upper anchor, a bolt and a fixed pin.

All in all the climbing is thin and sustained with few good rests.  Beware of a loose flake on the left, near the top of the route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Face