Run up easy but unprotected slab to the base of a headwall where the real climbing starts, fire in some good wires and launch up the featured face above. The climb wanders around a bit finding the best gear placements and holds and near the top peters out into unprotected (but easier) face climbing. Perhaps a little spicy but adequately protected for those solid at the grade. Two stars out of five.

Tarawassie Wiggle

Phelp's Chevrolet

Panama Red

The Bridge

Goodbye Mr. Bond

Sweat Band

Shaken Not Stirred

She Is Helga, I Am Sven

Date Queen

Quivering Savages

Leaving Las Vegas

Don Genaro Crack

Sweat Pants

Casino Royale

Uncle Len's Pot Farm

Plain But Good Hearted

Black Max (aka Corridor Crack)

Easy but unprotected climbing up a slab leads to a horizontal break and the first bolt about 30 feet up where the angle steepens and the difficulties begin.

A committing stand-up move getting to the 3rd bolt is memorable as are the thin crux moves just below the 4th bolt, which is a tough clip. Once past the 4th bolt the climbing eases considerably and it's a cruise to the top.

Climbing to the right of some bolts, as opposed to directly over them, may reduce the difficulty.

Decent climbing on this but the bolt placements are less than ideal and falling at several spots on this route are best avoided.

This route is located at the top of a corridor which is left of King Ottos Castle.  Phelp's Chevrolet is located at the upper left side of the corridor, and has one bolt down low, which leads to a small roof and a thin crack.  Anchors visible on top.   Short but good climbing.

Panama Red runs up the dark desert patina between Quivering Savages and Sweat Band.  Scramble up the initial slab to the base of a right-arching seam on the headwall.  A ladder of steep, positive crimps runs up the seam and the face above.  Originally a top-rope problem, it was retrobolted into a sport route in the early '90s by some of my compatriots as I stood watch on the summit.  Alas, this so offended a local (who had no involvement or history with the route) that he chopped it back to a toprope.  Thus, goes another stupid battle in the bolt wars.  Anyone interested in re-equipping the route has my blessing (I'll even subsidize the hardware).  Otherwise, I'll take care of the task myself next time I'm in the area.  Steep, continuous, fingery, positive climbing on bulletproof stone: it doesn't get much better than this.  Definitely worth a lap after running up Sweat Band.

A steep section down low is the physical crux with thin moves on small holds, but the somewhat poor rock and spaced protection up high can be trying on the nerves. Gear belay and rap from anchors atop Goodbye Mr. Bond or Sweat Band. One star out of five.

Given the same rating as

Sweat Band

in most guidebooks but it seems a little more difficult. Some tricky moves up steep rock at the start give way to balancy, sporty moves on a slab higher up. A 2.5" piece can be placed in a horizontal crack after the last bolt to lessen the runout to the anchors.

Typically given fewer stars than Sweat Band in most guides but the steeper, more varied climbing make this a better route IMO, and one to check out if in the area. Three stars out of five.

Begin about 15 feet right of Plain But Good Hearted and face climb up to a 5 foot long vertical crack (1.5 to 2 inches pro), traverse left (5.8, almost touching Plain But Good Hearted) then climb straight up a dike on a slab (5.7 R) to a crack (3 to 4 inch pro), then climb the slab above to join Plain But Good Hearted at it's crux upper section (2 to 3 inch CDs).

This route is pretty fun. Balancy bottom section on positive holds lead past a bolt. After that its a jug hall. If you lead it its probably 5.9 if you TR it its easier because you dont have to worry about protecting the flake crux.

The obvious wide crack that splits the right side of King Otto's Castle's south face is a good exercise in basic OW technique due to it's angle and some face holds outside the crack. A little short and grainy but you could do worse.

Climb up positive holds up to a mellow slab.

The next section takes an intricate sequence through excellent and closely-bolted off-vertical stone, ending on a ledge. Clip a bolt here and run it out up the easy finish to the anchor of Goodbye Mr Bond.

Climb the face between Tarawassie Wiggle and Plain But Good Hearted. More sustained than Tarawassie Wiggle with a string of novel moves.

You'll find this route 150' or so to the left of "King Otto's Castle". It's an obvious left leaning crack. Your stomach sould be empty before you head up. I had difficulty getting decent pro in to start. A tri-cam finally worked. Back up whatever you place; getting started will get your attention; and it doesn't let up.

Work up past an obvious hueco in the face to the 1st bolt then pull the bulge and continue up the gritty face above to anchors. Taller climbers may have an advantage on this particular route.

Begin by climbing Sweat Band to the second bolt. When your feet are just above the second bolt, traverse straight left past a bolt (10+) over to the seam on Panama Red. Make a tough move to gain the fourth bolt (11-) then follow the seam (10+) up to easier face climbing past 2 more bolts to the top.

Although fairly short this route features some good moves on decent rock with a minimal approach.

Easy moves up an apron of rock lead to a headwall with a high first bolt. Make the clip from a high, flat hold then power over the bulge (crux) and wander up the easier slab to anchors on a small ledge.

Two bolt anchor and walk-off to climber's right down easy slabs.

Easy climbing at the bottom leads to a wider crack in the middle then positive but somewhat runout face climbing on large rounded holds.

Best to be solid at the grade for maximum enjoyment on this route. Two stars out of five.

Corridor Crack is the overhanging fissure found in the corridor formed by the east side of King Otto's Castle. It is about 45 feet right of Plain But Good Hearted. You can't miss it on the left side when you walk into the corridor. Insecure overhanging finger slots to a hand jam. Then it eases off to being just hard up the vertical crack to the top. Ouch!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in King Otto's Castle