Short, but clean face climbing past 3 bolts to anchors.

Sneak Preview

IMAX

Held Over

Roll Credits

Alternate Ending

Anonymous Bolter

Bust a Move

Coming Attractions

Cult Classic

Exit Stage Left

Featured Attraction

Little Crack

Bonus Features

Director's Cut

Brief Intermission

Off-vertical face. Good beginner/easy climb

Climb the crack that is also the start of "Bust a Move" past two bolts and move left through a rounded bulge/flake and pockets to a delicate move to exit the steeps. Take a shake at a big incut (shared hold with "Director's Cut") and move back right to exposed & sustained climbing on a rounded arete to a delicate crux high on the prow.

A full value 10c with a hard start and some tricky business up high.  I thought the cruxes were not as marked in the book (c. 4th bolt) but rather at the beginning and between 6th & 7th bolts

Top-rope variation: Climb the right side of the flake that Leads up and left to "Bonus Features". From the good stance on the right side of the flake climb straight up  on fun edges & eyebrows between the routes. Crux is at the top.

From the platform climb past the first two shared bolts with "Cult Classic", then cut left through a fun series of irregular eyebrows and pockets. Slopey tech. Well bolted for the length.

This route climbs out the center of the roof on the Big Tower.  The crux comes right at the lip of the roof and is quite brief.  It is followed by wandering 5.10 climbing up the face and arete.  The crux can also be toproped by climbing the first two bolts of Big Screen (10b) to the right and then move left to connect with the upper part of Bust a Move.  Since the crux is basically a one mover, this climb feels light for 12a, but its a hard move nonetheless.

"Cult Classic" takes the right line of bolts (after the second bolt) through engaging pockets and edges to a left-angling finish. The route also shares the last bolt with "Alternate Ending".

Descent Beta:

The 6th bolt is a fixed draw. This makes cleaning easier (as a directional) and keeps the rope out of the dirty gully to the left when clipped for the final rope-pull.

This used to be a variation from "Big Screen", but someone with a good eye (not me) found a fun line left from the initial dihedral. Climb through steep jugs left to a fun and exposed buttress. Slink through a series of techy face moves to a fun ending with great position.

This route shares the upper bolts and anchors with "Bust a Move" (5.12a) which one can top-rope easily.

6 bolts on a lowish angle slab, Crux is moving past the last bolt.

Fun and easy crack leads to a ledge with lots of loose rock then continues up to a chain rap anchor

Then crack to a ledge, then face. Lots of loose rock on the ledge. Anchors are shared with Coming Attractions. Then crack can easily be protected by a single mid sized nut, as the first bolt is only 20 feet up or so.

Just to the right of "Held Over". Start on the lower detached buttress past two bolts to gain the main left buttress of Big Tower. A longer draw for the third bolt reduces rope drag. 3 separate cruxes and enjoyable climbing on clean pockets and edges make this a fun outing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Big Tower