This great, fun and challenging route on the East Face of Moro Rock, was established back in September of 88' by Eddie Joe and Dave Hickey. It consists of 5 full on stiff pitches of free climbing and intricate clean cam hooking/riveting and overhanging thin blade/beak aid work. It is a great mixture of both and will most definitely give any party a day or two of worth while challenges. It doesn't see too many ascents and will most likely require some leaver gear i.e. heads and rivets. There is a awesome bivy at the top of P-4, in order to enjoy the atmosphere and scenary. Beware of both poison oak and roaming black bears that are very prevelant on the sloping 1 hour gulley down hill approach.

Full Metal Jacket

Arc of a Biner

Guitar Man

Flight of Stares

There's always room for Jello

Direct East Face

Bear Damage

Ladies on Top

Stair Trek

A sporty route up a sustain but featured face. Knoby face climbing past bolts to a two bolt anchor. The route starts on a narrow ledge, you'll step out left and make for the small right-facing corner 10 feet up, after this climb upward through balance-e climbing from knob to knob, following the bolts for 150' to the anchor. Continue up 5.6 slab for the next pitch and one low-fifth pitch upward to the stairs as the Finish. Rapping off would result in having to down-climbing the 4/5 class sections below the climb.

This route is the one that is immediately left of the route  "passing the left side of a very small roof" (the description of Flight of Stares on

sekiclimbing.com

).

It is just right of the last bolted route, "Bear Damage". This may or may not be Guitar Man, but it felt distinctly harder than the other routes graded at 10a, so maybe not.

There are two crux moves, one at the first bolt and another at the second. Both involve smearing very high feet and mantling up onto smallish but positive knobs. There is a very long run out to the anchors on ~5.7 ground. Keep a cool head and you will have fun on this one.

Climb the face 30 feet left of Stair Trek past four bolts. Belay from the communal anchor.

Start to the left of Stair trek under a large and very thin flake.  Find your way onto the ledge(don't pull to hard on the flake!) and traverse right past a bolt and to a tricky mantle (crux).  Follow the easiest way up to the two bolt anchor (5.7).

4 bolts, chain anchor.

You can also keep going past the chain anchor and run it out and belay at the railing, turning it into one 120' pitch, and then simply walk down the stairs.

P1: 5.8 Climb a crack to a right facing shallow corner. (Center of photo) Build anchor on ledge.

P2: 5.7 scramble left up ramp to nice splitter. Build below splitter or hanging belay above splitter will set up better for the traverse.

P3: 5.8+ traverse right on the obvious crack that thins to slab to gain the large ramp, ledge. Follow the large ramp to its end then climb straight up on more run out slabs.

Start down left from the stairs that lead to the top of Moro Rock and just left of a mossy, left facing corner. Climb the face past two bolts to a communal anchor just under the pathway.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Face