Moderate slab climbing leads to a crack. This is the first crux. The next section of climbing has one big crux move on steep rock with big holds to a juggy top-out.

Insecurity Never Wins

Screw That, Tell Her to Eat Ramen Alone

Butterfingers

Stranger Danger

Flatten the curve

Social Distancing

Sunday Funday

White Streak

The Whitewall Route

Blazing Saddles

Shelter in place

Three Musketeers

Cougar face arete

Night Stalker

What Day Is It? (aka Sweet Child of Mine)

Unknown Boulder Face

Stahn Solo

Wind Rider

Sidewalk Danger

Santiago

[Redacted]

Bloody Monday

Enter Slabman

Route 76

The route starts with thin feet, but good pockety hand holds and goes into a tight fingers crack as the rock angle lets up. After clipping the crux bolt you pull the thin bouldery crux. The climb finishes with an exciting mantle over a sloping rail.

Not sure the history, but this is the most obvious line on the rock.  Probably top roped a bunch of times, but reasonable to lead on gear. Happy to update if anyone has more info about it, just picked a silly name for it. Follows a crack in between Three Musketeers and Butter Fingers and finishes up at the top of Butter Fingers. A couple fun finger locks and slab moves down low leads to an easier top.

Slab climb, low crux to second bolt then eases way up.

Start at the bottom of the central face pull up on to the face and follow edges up to a nice red point crux. careful after rains this face gets covered with sand and dirt.

Toprope right leaning crack next to Shelter in place sharing same anchor.

Possible trad lead with sketchy small nut placements.

Up the face to the roof then traverse right feeling the exposure finish up the corner.

Two bolt anchor set 3 feet back at top will require extending to minimize rope drag.

Walk off decent to climbers right may be easier than cleaning via rappel

The crux is right off of the ground. Its a high reach to a crimp and slopper up to a good edge, get your feet up and make a clip.. A few more crux moves and the climbing gets easier as you go up.

Little harder at start but all there for a 5.8

Climb starts on the pedestal of a giant chock stone just at the second tier of the gully.

This is the best boulder on the hillside. It starts on a rail with good holds and ends slightly right. There are several variations. The original route went straight up and was V4. A hold broke making for a slightly different finish and bringing the grade down a bit. Overall a beautiful, steep boulder problem on positive holds!

Low boulder like moves off the ground well protected to slab finish

Just to the left of Stranger Danger, climb up the arete.

What Day Is It? I say 5.11c. It is just across from the white wall. Approach up into the gully and start the climb on the middle boulder face, climb up into the overhang make a clip, then you're in it! Go up to a jug haul finish.

Start matched on a good jug at about face height. Get an okay high right foot, and throw up left for a  bad crimp. Get an okay left foot and reach up and hit a poor side pull with your right hand. Bring both feet up on the starting jug and its an easy top out to the immediate right (there will be a bush in your face though), or a committing top out all the way up (Both are fairly easy)

It can be pretty easily bouldered, but there are bolts on top for a TR set up.

Just though it was such a fun problem that it deserved to get put up on MP. If any one has any further info on it please let me know!

Crux at bolt 3 and 4 rounding over ledge coming off crimpy face to next head wall with high 5 bolt to prevent rope drag during slaby finish

Enchains the cruxes of both Stranger Danger and Social Distancing. Climb Stranger Danger for most of the route and then cut right for the fun bolted roof of Social Distancing. The lower slab dries out quicker after a rainstorm then Social Distancing.

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor with quick links. Entire route is bolted with 1/2” powers stainless steel bolts and stainless hardware torqued with a torque wrench for accuracy. I attempted to make the bolt spacing logical and well protected. Bolts protect more commiting moves and are within reach at good clipping stances.

Crux is going above second bolt. Good route for a new leader but maybe not a first lead.

A fun climb on good holds up high to an old bolt with option for not so great pro up to the bolt, runout after the bolt to the top. crux is at the bolt.

Start left of the boulder climb up to the first bolt make a reach for the clip and pull through the crux the rest is easy low angle until the last 8ft, it more vertical up to shuts for the anchor.

Climb up the arête of the slab that is near the entrance to the crag.

"Enter Slabman" on left "Santiago" on right.

No visual of climber at anchor and loud highway noises make these routes difficult to belay.

Shout loud and clear calls for safety!

The obvious flaring crack that starts in the cave.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cougar Crag East