Perhaps the best stemming route at Paradise Forks.Very powerful for the arms and legs.Used to be a bold lead on Lowe Balls. C3's make the gear great. One of the all time Fork's sand bags. Originally rated 5.12-.

The Egg Timer

Tiger Bomb

Hocus Focus

Pandora's Box

Moonrise Kingdom

Duke of Lizards

Fork’s Flyer

Prudence

Perfect Beast

Popeye

Meat Puppet

Another Day in Paradise

The White Rose

Skull Digger

K.C. Crypt Keeper

The Little Prince

Apache Rose

The White Narwhal

Sage Against the Machine

Cactus Fingers

New Kid On The Blocks

Billy the Kid

Exquisite movement on Perfect Stone. 5 Stars anywhere! Getting to the first bolt proves a battle of its own with a bold clip-point at fifteen feet off the deck; an alpine draw in its extended position is intended for the first bolt. Dance right across insecure smears to reach a triad of large angled edges just below the second bolt. Clip it, then drop back into the no hands rest at the shared holds of Tiger Bomb and The Egg Timer, the last rest before the top. Pull deep onto a series of small crimps to gain a crisp gash hidden just out of sight at the left (the first crux). Clip into the final bolt before being presented with the true grit of the Tiger: crush down on small hands to gain a high in-cut right foot, drive your left hand to your waist, FIGHT GRAVITY to a jug, and achieve the start of the gear section of the climb. Full value eliminate-style bouldering and endurance climbing guide you to the top.

Hocus Focus climbs the center face of the Zebra. Great movement and a wild crux will make you Hocus Focus.  

  Not dangerous but very specific gear at the start makes for a heads up onsight or a tumble.

There is a little bit of everything on this route from delicate face climbing to powerful pulling. Excellent rock with a thin seam roof leads to a slab, below twin cracks in a corner. Previously only Top Roped, this classic takes bits of gear the whole way.

A route that came to be under the full moon of the Summer Soltice, Moonrise Kingdom is a powerful love story about thin cracks, thinner protection, and fierce boulder problems that, for once, may favor the short.   

  Start Moonrise Kingdom on unprotectable terrain to a stance for your first piece 18ft off the ground (V3+ R). After finding tiny pro move under the shield. Place your fragile tips just so and then try to pull them off. After some slab campusing move into the steep thin boulder problem to the finish stance on a ledge.

Thought provoking and powerful moves through a corner on great rock, I originally stayed in the corner and thought it was quit a bit harder than the given grade, climbing to the right of the corner may or may not make it easier according to the second ascent, let me know what you think. Envisioned, cleaned and equipped by Tony Schwartz 

Not your typical .12 at the Forks and one of the harder off widths in NAZ. Climb the crack which simply widens the whole way and gets steeper as well. The burly crux is near the end.

Steep and broken face moves to the sweet corner. Very cool tips to second digit leaning layback locks to a steepening good finger section to the rim. 

  Again, good rock and good movements...

Named because it was a Perfect Beast to test out new Wired Bliss camming prototypes back in the mid 80’s.

 Climb the left trending crack through funky jams and a long reach to a distant finger jam. After the crux there are two variations, the left of which is far better. Climb up and left in the crack to the top and a rap anchor.

Excellent and dynamic climbing up face/seams with small corners to a two-finger pocket, and the cranky crux...  Big move! Climb steep face to top.

More fingers and stemming?? Can we get some variety, please?? 

  Yet another one of the cool "white" panels on the wall... 

  Face climb broken rock to a thin finger splitter, straight in offset. Continue with good stemming along the continuous sized crack to a funky top out.

Another Day in Paradise consists of multiple cruxes, solid gear, awesome holds and just a bit of spice! Boulder out of Sedona up big ledges to gain the actual rock. Solid gear is had once at the stance below the roof. Puzzle your way up to the roof and some jams. Swing right and giggle up heroic section of thin hands. As the crack pinches down, fussy but good gear will see you into the cramped stance below the final roof. A blind nut can protect the final section, but only if you get it right! Engineer your way up positive choss through the 'ball pit' to the top.

The White Rose is now the best (only) warm up on the White Wall. Like its black counterpart, The White Rose is fun climbing on great rock. Expect some smaller gear and a short bouldery crux in a way that only a rose could grow on the White Wall. 

  Start up towards a short roof using the puzzle piece block on Billy the Kid to Forks Stem into a dihedral (5.8+) climb much easier but quality terrain to a stance.

With your first gear placement being a ball nut 15+ feet  off the deck, and the following three pieces being slider nuts as well, the mental battle with feeling safe evokes tenuous movement. Succeed through the opening sequence of exaggerated highstep-stemming before formatting your personal barn door solution. Gun it to a pair of straight-edge jugs at the obvious #2 Cam slot, recharge your battery before making a tough nut placement, then execute a few reachy moves on small but positive slots, surmounting the large ledge via a lava-esque basalt topout.

Long moves on cobble-like edges reach a rest several meters up at your first well earned placement; a glove-fit offset yellow stopper. Execute an easy mantle to gain an effortless no hands rest on the large ramping ledge. Oppose the offset seam and establish your left foot on a greasy yet positive imperfection far on the left face. Press where you can with the right hand and take advantage of the mediocre left hand crimp to assist upward movement. A high right foot smear on B-B sized protrusions proved the only solution to an otherwise impossible crux. Levitate into the featureless flare and will yourself into lying back off to the right of the seam. Balance through powerful open handed laybacks, walk high on slick foot smears, and sink a strenuous kneebar at the Green C3 placement. Grasp the only jug on the route before performing the final hard moves: bumping the right hand up gaston crimps and pressing into the hand crack below the roof. Weasel out of the roof onto an arete, ascending good holds and and a small scramble to a big ledge with a Juniper.

"One sees clearly only with the heart. What is essential is invisible to the eye." -The Fox (Antoine de Saint-Exupéry) 

  The Little Prince is a nice line that climbs on an arete on the far right side of the Zebra Face. A line that looks improbable and almost impossible from the ground opens itself up with just enough face holds and tricky beta to make an exceptional "moderate". Potentially a harder onsight, be ready for small gear and some classic basalt face climbing. 5.11++? 

  Start on easy terrain to a thin crack and a stance. Bust a move and gain the horizonal seam. Traverse right and under the crux boulder section. Plunge through and to a stance under a small roof. Traverse right out onto the final headwall on the arete. Blocky  holds to a topout.

While we find it hard to believe that this is a FA we will claim it til someone states otherwise and if it's an old route, well it's a gem that deserves to be climbed!  Anyhow start as for Perfect Beast and traverse right under the roof, crossing the choss into a thin seam.  Small gear and great moves take you up to a great stance below the crux tips section... Plug some tiny gear and enter hero mode up to a bomber lock and then ledge system.  Head up and right to belay for White Rose.   Thin climbing that's easier, (not easy), than it looks.

Part mythical/magical bouldering beast; Part White Wall tradtastics. The White Narwhal is the unicorn of The Forks, and worth chasing. Be like H.M. and get "tormented by an itch for things remote."   

  Several sections of the climb are unprotected, the top runout being the most serious. Caution riding a beast with a magical horn.

Climb the flaring offwidth to a sit down at the base of White Wall "power spot." Execute a couple finger crack moves over highly textured terrain before beginning an exciting sequence of bouldery moves protected by bolts.

A chest height mantle starts this short but engaging voyage through sparse imperfections: a stem corner with face holds out left leads to tight finger pods and an 'almost TOO good' hand jam. A couple more moves on perfect fingers and big jugs take you to the rim. Short, but super sweet.

A nice moderate(for the White Wall) line that serves up pretty casual, fun climbing. Lots of face holds and rests make this quite a bit different from the sustained Forks jam fests that you came for. Climb a slab to a hollow block in the initial bulge. Follow the leaning ladder up and right,  crank a few finger locks. A boulder problem out right gets you under the improbable looking roof. Stuff in a variety of gear and float crux sport moves up into the ball pit. Tip toe to the top a few body lengths without gear.

Billy the Kid is a short little rowdy route on the left side of the Zebra Face. A wild tradyno crux sequence will force you to be quick on the draw. 

  Start up towards the puzzle block and through broken face climbing into a flare pod. Get creative and move through some mantels into easy terrain to a stance.  

  Not dangerous but specific gear and climbing above said gear required. No one has taken "the whip" yet...

The White Wall (or The White Wine Wall) is the furthest established cliff down the canyon on the north side and is very easily seen from atop the Prow. The lines are a lot less traveled than the rest of the Forks and may require a little more time to rig because of the slopey top. Despite the choss on top the climbing here is good with hard face/seams and beautiful cracks set at eye catching angles. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The White Wall