This route is toward the right end of the northeast face of Little Blair in the Goldirocks Area. It's the most obvious crack. It starts straight up and bends over to a platform after forty feet or so. WPW refers to Wolff-Parkinson-White syndrome.

Blind People Have the Hummin' Jones

Stress Fracture

Short Fuse

This route is very appealing when viewed from below.  The crux is the 5' roof about 5' up.  The roof actually downturns at the lip which makes it extra cool.  It appears as though it would take an offwidth master to pull it off, but a closer look reveals the bomber hand crack guarded by an offwidth.  Above the roof looms an offwidth that is very difficult to see.  The Upper OW is not bad.  I will leave it at that.  I did not want to haul up big pieces, so I didn't bring anything for it and was never uncomfortable.  If you pull the crux, the route should be in the bag.  However, if OWs are not your bag, you may want to bring a big piece.  This route is very enjoyable and, if you are somewhat tall, it is on the soft side of .12a.  .11+ felt pretty on.

Climb up a large flake into a right-facing, rattly, finger crack.  Pull the lip and the climb is done.  There are bolts on top for an anchor with rap rings.  Due to the crystalline nature of the crack, the gear is a little hard to fish in.  The gear is good, but you will have to fiddle with it to get it in nicely.

Short Fuse is a quintessential Vedauwoo route.  It is really short but totally in your face and harder/more awkward than you would expect.  It is a splitter, rattly finger crack with an inexplicably awkward topout.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Goldirocks