This line starts on a thin, right foot on the face and two wide, inward hands. This first move and half is the crux and is probably where the name comes from. Once you attain the large jugs midway up, the gritty of it is over with. Follow the jugs to the single bolt 5 feet from the TR anchors.

Wings of Steal

Hole in One

High Me

Morning Glory

Seappage

Stonehenge Slab

The Hobo's Chimney

Scotty Bones

Ray's Picture

Andromeda

Happy Feet

Laughing Gull

Wink Van Ripple

No Steps

Swayback

Velcro

Why Me?

Broken Ankle

Midnight Train

Toe Jams

Chimney

The Plank

Steps Direct

No Bolt

Roll the Bones

Frosty The Boulder

Excuse Me

Offwidth

Rip Van Winkle

The Wizard's Hat

Steps

Slip Van Winkle

Zits

Slab n' Jab

Y - Boulder

Zipper

Black Streak

This is a fun, moderate climb, independent of the routes on the main wall, providing a nice alternative when those routes get backed-up. 

  Climb the left-facing corner/flake using good foot ledges, then pull onto the upper slab/face.  Follow the features on the blunt arête (right side of the face) using dishes and knobs, past a wide crack, moving slightly left at the top to good finishing holds and the anchors. 

  Please do not top rope off the ring anchors, which decreases their lifespan and safety.  Instead, place your own draws, and have the last climber in your party thread the rings and rappel (not lower).   

This is the short line on the last decent slab, right of "Slip Van Winkle."  Despite the name, it is actually par 5 or 6!  Grab the obvious hole, pull up, hand-foot match, clip the bolt, levitate up the slab to the crack, anchor off the tree at the top.

Make thoughtful moves up the fun slab on the left side of the little triangular buttress (crux).  Exit at the weakness under the tree, traverse right on the ledge, and then lay-back up the the corner.  Exit right at the top of the corner towards a small tree.    

  This may be the tallest climb on the cliff.

Move up the left-leaning ramp. Step right to bottom of Steps crescent. Move up a tall move to a short dike. Mantle and move to the top.

Follow up the arete to some cool little rails, follow up the the short hand crack left of the tree. The bottom half may be wet for a while after a good rain.

Move up the slab either as a starting variation for the Stonehange Boulder or top out the same as Seappage. The crux is getting off the ground.

This is one of the best overhanging problems of Redrocks. Follow the corner crack up to the top using rock features to balance out with your feet. The crux is mid way up the corner. The crack tapers out and there's a big step/reach up for a good hold.

Follow up the easy bottom half of the slab. Step up into the horizonal crack and make delicate moves up the slab just left of the center.

Start below Toe Jams to the right of Laughing Gull. Smear your way up to the right of the crescent dike of Laughing Gull and up to the left-leaning crack.

After 10 feet up Zipper, head out left from the flake. After about 8 or ten feet (3 or 4 steps) head straight up. There is also a direct start which is 5.12.

Start on a THIN crimp and pull up (crux) to balancy moves on cool features.  The line wanders a bit, so don't think "straight up."  The side wall on the right is in for the start and if you get to the Toe Jams crack, you've gone to far left.  This line was probably soloed years ago, and in fact a Toe Jams variation exits the crack half way and finishes on the upper slab of Happy Feet.  The bolts were added in the summer of 2011 after the line got a good cleaning.  Enjoy.

Start on the placed flat stone just right under the first bolt. Smear up to the left towards the cresent dike. Hand foot match on the right leaning crimper on top the dike. Smear straight up towards the "peanut". Once you are standing on the "peanut" you can traverse right towards the second bolt, across a nice, scoopy plank and make your way up the left-leaning crack. Follow the crack to the top.

Wink Van Ripple is a really nice little slab line.   

  This is listed on MP as a variation to "No Bolt," but, having cleaned it off recently, it really goes as an independent line and is worthy of its own page.   This may be the hardest route on this small section of cliff.  There are several small holds but none are very good.   

  The lichen has been scrubbed, but it's still dusty and could use more scrubbing.  The mossy bottom in current conditions (dank, muggy July) is rather slick.

Climb the entire slab just right of Steps.

This is a variation start for High Me, Zits, Morning Glory, or Steps. It's the short slab right of the right-leaning ramp which is listed as the start of Steps in Boston Rocks.

Smear up the entire length of Zipper a couple of feet to the right. Using Zipper at any point is considered off route.

This ascends the very blank arete and face to the left of High Me.  It is very thin starting out and requires Herculean body tension as you smear on the face and grope and undercling the arete.

This line is the same as Laughing Gull, but after you make your way up to the second bolt, take the slab right of the top crack of Laughing Gull to the top.

This is the crux of slab climbing. Start on Ray's Picture and traverse over toward Steps, across Morning Glory, past Zits, take the horizonal crack halfway up the slab next to high me and smear up the left side of the Chimney.

Toe Jams climbs a toe-width crack on the far right end of the main wall. From the bottom, scramble up and right over blocks to the base of the crack. Belay from here or the bottom, bottom recommended. Hand and fist jam with ease up the low-angle crack until it becomes shallow and face holds appear. Bolts up top for anchor.This crack is a wonderful introduction to jamming for beginners. The crack itself isn't long or sustained, but offers quite a few moves of compulsory hand- and toe- jamming.

Start on the leftmost flake of the south end of main wall noted by a streak of moss which currently has a little man carved in it. Smear up the slab to the second horizontal crack and follow it to the base of the chimney. The chimney is kind of awkward till the halfway point, this is probably the crux of the whole route.

Head up Zipper, about 8 feet from where the flake jets out left, head straight out to the right where the left-leaning crack from Laughing Gull tapers out. On delicate feet on good scoops, make the traverse across the q   Y d nugand head up the crack of Laughing Gull.

This is the direct start for Steps. Smear up the slab directly underneath the main crack of Steps.

Pull up on the right-facing flake, grab the arete, and shimmy to the top. The 5.11 variation moves straight up the slab the under the arete. The arete is off.

Start low directly below the top boulder. Pull up on a small crip and go for the top.

Start on the left-facing flake of the slab that High Me starts on, also just right of Chimney. Follow the flake up to the left-leaning crack which tapers out halfway to a large flake. Where the left-leaning crack tapers out is the crux, so protect well. Go left around the flake to the top... there is also a nice crack on the left side of the top boulder which the TR anchors are on top.

Cram yourself in the low-angle offwidth, then get up it however you can. You know you want to!

 This can be done in part or in full as an alternate start to any number of the climbs around it, or you can finish at the pine tree and walk off.

This is a nice bit of friction on the smaller face to the north (right) of the main face. It is essentially a one-move wonder. Climb the Zipper-like flake at about 5.5. Protect well where it ends, about 8 feet below the top. The climb consists of navigating this blank section. Smear and trick your way through to some uninviting slopers (only one or two moves of .10a) and top out. It is scary above the gear!

This is an awesome beginner's trad spot. There are a multitude of was you could make your way up this rock on nice cracks.

Climb up the ramp at the left end of the crag, and then make reach up and into the left-facing flake/crack (sometimes there is a bolt), and follow flake to the top. The step over into the flake is 5.8, and the rest is only 5.5-ish.

Starts just right of Rip Van Winkle on obvious ripples then moves up onto the super rounded arete on the merest of features, then head left to anchor of Rip Van Winkle.   It is definitely thin but all there.   Good intro to hard smearing.

Go up the left-leaning ramp and step right to two vertical seams. Make thin balance moves past three widely spaces bolts.

This is a sweet, short line. Wedge between the slab and the ledge.

This is a fun little boulder problem. Just climb the crack to the top.

This is one of the finer routes here. It ascends an obvious crack that is typically laybacked. It just begs to be climbed. The crux is mid-height where it jogs left. Continue up. Enjoy. Zipper is one of the nicest short routes in New England, IMHO.

Start on the obvious flake of the Zipper. After about 10 feet, smear out left past Andromeda, toward the black streak. Smear up right of the black streak to the top. This route also has a A3 or 5.12 direct start from the bottom. If you aid it to the top, it's an A5.

This granite wall arguably offers the best toproping in eastern MA. There is one true classic (Zipper), several excellent slab climbs, and some decent crack climbs. All the routes have bolted toprope anchors.Though there a few bolted lines here and there, please avoid bolting established lines. There is a long history of climbing in this area, and if you look closely, you will find the scars of the bolts wars.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Red Rock Main Area