Face to cracks.  Moves right in to the larger crack for a bit then back left.

Wonder Crack

Last Line of the Story

Post-Op Therapy

Farm Team

Back In The Shadow Again

Micro Slab

Senior Saga

Microcephaly

Fire Breathing Craggin'

1,2,3 Stop

Crack to Chimney

Micro Classic

Minarete

Amateur Hour

Slabs Of Bakin'

Slightly overhanging orange face with moves to a huge jug.  A move or so up the arete then back left and over the roof. A lot of movement on a very short route.

This is one of the last routes Jim Scott helped establish. I remember him telling me that he and Doug had top-roped a line and that we should go bolt it. I wasn't too inspired when Jim told me about it but Doug ever since Jim died has felt like it was unfinished business. Today we went out and worked out the crux which is about 10 feet up and hard to read. Unfortunately this hard steep section leads to fun but much easier climbing so it is no classic but worth doing if you are there. You can easily TR the crux from the anchors on the route to the right but please use your own draws so you don't ruin the fixed lower offs.

A short bit of chimney leads to good face sustained face climbing. Move left out of the chimney at the 3rd bolt.

This climb stays left of the crack that leads to the large chimney that splits the crag until you get into the chimney for about 15 feet.  The step back left out of the chimney has a bit of chossy rock but is pretty cool as is most of the climbing on this moderate route.

This climb is very sustained and the climbing keeps you interested to the anchors.

Fun little face climb with some good edging in the middle.

Multiple roof moves and a thin face finish.  Clipping the last bolt is a little spooky feeling even though the bolt is just under your feet.  A little working around to get into the right position will make the clip pretty straight forward.

Short and in your face until the end.  Good moves on great rock.  Climbing this low at this time of year might lead others to question the size of ones brain or if you even have one.

Climb past 5 bolts to right side of hole in the rock. Up past 1 more bolt to engage crack that widens and angles right to 2-bolt belay/rap anchor.

This is the main feature you can see from the parking area. It's a bit dirty in parts but fun to do if you're out there... and you like chimneys... and loose rock... and dirt. 

  Avoid the dangerous stuff in the last 20' by stepping out left to the belay/rap bolts on top of "1,2,3 Stop."

The crux starts a few feet up and ends when you move left to clip the anchors.  Sustained climbing on good rock with a few thin finger locks along the way.

Climb past a bolt along right-diagonalling dirty steps to a small overhang. (The new Direct Start is better.) The original route steps right under the overhang then up along a thin crack to right side of small ledge with a bolt. Up and right to another bolt, then straight up into a crack that leads to the top. 

5.9R var. : At the small overhang, move up and left to nice crack leading to left side of the small ledge. Continue up runout face to engage left leaning crack then wander to top. (SG, JJ, 1982) 

"Running Man" direct start (5.8) Start on right side of face in a wide crack by tree. Diagonal left past bolt to tiny gear placements, then straight up steep face past another bolt to intersect A.H. just after "small overhang."  (Derek Anderson, Aaron Marks 2012)

Uninspiring to look at but turns out to have some good climbing on it.  Stays right of the weedy gully until it is easy to move left without any gardening.  Rock gets better and better on the second half.  You will be surprised at the amount of climbing even where it looks like it will be a cruise.

NW facing white rock with grey bands seen from the Molino Overlook parking circle. It is a short distance SW along the ridge from where the trail to the Ruins meets the ridgeline. 

  If anybody knows the "established name" for the rock or has a better idea, let me know.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Amateur Hour Crag