Diagonal Crack

All the Right Moves

Unknown Roof

Amelie

Fear of Flying

Fight Club

Stair Step Traverse

Angelica

The Constant Gardener

Unknown OW to Fingers

Project

Deception Crack

This is another cool route that is not in the guidebook. I'm assuming its been done before though I'd love to claim the FA. It seemed a little too clean....

Begin in the same right-facing corner as the

Unknown OW

, but cut over right as soon as you can to another short crack. Keep traversing past this to a big left-facing corner. A couple stem moves lead to the big roof. Sack up and fire it pulling the lip into baggy fingers (crux). There are enough feet and face holds that it's not TOO desperate.

Once through the crux don't forget to smell the flowers (there's a big cluster at face level), and enjoy steep, fun jamming to the top. There's  a weird OW-ish section guarding the top.

This might be 11- but I thought is was comparable with

Renaissance

. Who knows....

A little overhyped in the guidebook but still definitely worth doing. A good variety of sizes make this a fun, intersting line. The crux is a little spooky since its protected by blue TCUs and the rock isn't Unaweep's finest. I don't think it warrants a PG rating, though....

The chimney leads to great hands, then a fingery-face section moves left to a right-facing corner up high. No fixed anchor.

Amelie is a variation to the first pitch of

Fear of Flying

. It goes up the first 20 feet of

Fear of Flying

then instead of traversing, it heads straight up in a flared dihedral. The climbing in the dihedral is very reminiscent of

Flare Thee Well

in Vedauwoo. It stops at the belay stance for the first pitch of

Fear of Flying

.

Fight Club starts out in a stemming dihedral, then goes to funky, thin, slabby dihedral climbing. It is possible to exit out left onto the arete after the stemming corner. This makes the route a little contrived seeing as the crux comes right after the exit point. After about 35 feet of climbing it traverses into its neighbor

The Constant Gardener

. Either finish up with

The Constant Gardener's

hand fist crack or branch out left to finish on a fingers and tips crack. Both lead to the top of the formation.

Move, ledge, move, ledge, repeat.

Still a good warm up and one of Unaweep's few routes under 5.9. The crux is a little spooky so make sure you're solid at the grade before jumping on. The book has you traversing further off left, thereby maybe avoiding the hard move. But why suffer through that kind of rope drag, or break a descent pitch into two just to traverse? Top it out, methinks.

This is a must do if your crazy enough to climb at Juniper at all! It is a great warm-up before climbing the unknown cracks to the left.

An awkward, and chossy start leads to a ledge and then stellar double hand cracks in a corner.

The Constant Gardener starts out with unprotected face climbing, then goes into flared, poddy crack and face climbing. Then it finishes with an easy but fun hand and fist crack.

This is an aswesome route! It is definitely the best this wall has to offer.

Climb 30 feet of jungle leading to a right-facing corner. Climb fingers and thin hands to a good stance. You'll either love or hate the next 20 feet: a 5-6" splitter!  Crush it, bro. Once through the wideness, the crack suddenly turns into perfect fingers. Crank through a couple locks until it opens to good hands and the angle eases back.

Climb a bouldery, poorly protected start to peggy face to a roof to an OW. It is brutal. The crux might be getting both feet off the ground....

This is typical adventure climbing at Unaweep. It is probably a good practice route for when you get off route in the Black!

Follow a flared finger crack in black rock as it thins and cruxes before hitting a ledge and traversing right, then straight up. What looks like a great leaning splitter half ay up turns out to be choss and off route, pass it on the right. A tricky mantle guards the top!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Juniper Wall