The Gorgon route is directly nearby and somewhat similar to

Turn To Stone

. The bulge/roof up top is split by cracks and has a few jugs that limit the difficulty of the climbing to 5.8, however. It is surprisingly easy relative to its initial appearance from the ground, and jugs abound.

The Gorgon

Turn to Stone

Turn to Stone is a moderate climb with a few bulges for cruxes. Good protection is available most of the way if it is sought out by a skilled leader.

This climb goes up and right diagonally through a crack system to the top of the rock on the South side of upper Medusa (see the attached photo).

To descend, continue to the summit and off the back (scramble, or do a second pitch).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Medusa