From the col between Stuart and Sherpa Peak ascend up the ridge, generally heading towards climbers left. With a 60 meter rope, you can reach the first belay station in a cave feature, which has a platform that 4 to 5 climbers can stand in comfortably. The crux of the climb is the crack leading out of the cave (5.4-5.5). Continue ascending towards climbers left and to a platform where you can build an anchor next to a rappel station. From here, scramble down and across a gully to the third pitch of climbing, which heads to the lowest point on the summit ridge. After gaining this ridge, it is a short 4th class scramble to the notoriously airy summit block. Some parties elect to protect the slab scramble over to the true summit, or set a hand line for followers.

The descent consists of 4 single rope rappels down the ascent route.

West Ridge

North Ridge

The ridge has three sections, divided by deep notches, most start at the lower of the two.

The first section is supposed to be low fifth but the reality is there is a lot of class 2-4 and if you stray from the crest at the wrong point you can add on more than a couple 5.6-8 pitches. In general you want to stay just on the east side of the crest. Most report simul-climbing this section.

After rappelling or down-climbing to the second notch, scramble around a couple spires and then climb two 5.8ish pitches before a final low-fifth romp to the summit. Each of these are divided by stretches of class 2-3. Best to bypass the large gendarme with the diving board feature on the right.

On almost every pitch above low-5th, we encountered large detached blocks and difficult protection. This is NOT the north ridge of Stuart and the climbing is quite serious for the grade.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sherpa Peak