Difficult start leads to a good rest then a scary move up high...don't worry, you won't crater unless your belayer's an idiot.

Sex Farm

Third World Lover

Fresh Meat

Fast Food Christians

Infectious

Relaxed Atmoshere

Table of Colors

Unsportsmanlike Conduct

Brother Stair

Maypop

Trad Boy Go

To Defy The Laws Of Tradition

Stunning the Hog

Aquaduck Pocket

The Dinosaur

Henry

Mercy the Huff

Table of Colors Direct

Mr. Bungle

Wild Yet Tasty

Too Many Puppies

Face Up To That Crack

Wildly overhanging route with long moves to pockets & slopers. A tough 3rd clip will set you up for the crux...then just hang on for the ride.

This climb is a little harder than it's nearby neighbors, and perhaps significantly so.  More than pump is a factor here.  The start feels quite hard and it took me a few tries (1994) to get going.  Get a spotter and an attentive belayer at least until you clip the second bolt.

Like the nearby routes to the left, once you pass the overhang, the difficulty is finished.

Start on a low shelf with the band of pockets. Work through some thin crimps to gain a good sidepull and gun for the top.

A bouldery, reachy crux leads to much easier climbing above.

45 Foot Boulder problem on a rope. Rad. Move through hard moves on crimps, slopers, slopey sidepulls and pockets. Big move to an obvious slopey rail about three quarters of the way up.

Another route with a tough start on smaller holds. Head up the line quickly to beat the bulge and then cruise to the top.  This climb used to have some fairly sharp holds on it, but has probably worn down.  With comfort, it may have gotten more difficult however.

A classic, aesthetic route. First 13 established in the Red River Gorge. Start the same as Mercy the Huff, but head left after this first bolt. Flow up the superb sequence to a balancy and crimpy crux on  a blunt arete. Fight to the jug and keep it together on the black rock section.

Start on the boulder and begin climbing the crack. Expect hand jams, off fingers, fingers and crimps. Climb up into the tunnel and place a hand sized piece. Crawl through the chimney to reach a tree with a sling anchor.

A short climb, but some interesting climbing...

Just around the corner right from the approach trail to Left Flank, there is a short climb on some steep rock.  Climb up off-angle pockets for the crux of this one past a total of four bolts to the anchor.

I believe this climb was named after a local preacher in the early 90's.

A bouldery start leads to thin moves to the right of the bolt line.  I thought it felt a bit stiff for a Red River Gorge 11a, but maybe I'm just weak.

Above a black spherical alcove is this thin seam/crack.

A great pocketed route with lots of chalk up a slightly overhanging face.  The technical crux is down low; the enduro crux is up high.

Another good climb on Left Flank, the difficulty of which is inversely proportional to your finger strength, as crux of this climb is on steep rock and smaller pockets. Fire through the steep first half and then cruise the easy second half to the anchors.

This crimpy number combines an intense crux with enduro jugs on some of the best stone in the country.  The business is all about finger strength & pain tolerance with a few tough moves on brutal crimps, though a significant pump, and devious moves keep the outcome in doubt right up to the end.

Begin atop a flat boulder.  Long cranks between incut holds leads to a good ledge & shake below the third bolt.  Strenuous V6-ish cranks lead to another ledge and a great rest on a creaky & somewhat spooky black rail.  Long moves on widening holds lead to a sequential pocket section, followed by more good rests, then a final right-ward traverse to the chains.

A nice climb on nice rock. Locate the next Route right of Third World Lover, perhaps 50 meters by trail. Climb this line up and right past 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Amazingly fun movement on pretty good holds. There are many decent rests with the pump being the main crux.

This is one of the best routes I have climbed at the Red.

Now 20% more free! The "direct" start adds three bolts and maybe 30 moves of awesome moderate bouldering on killer sculpted pockets up to a reachy crimp section before joining the already-classic original route. These moves are not harder than the upper crux (but not much easier either), but certainly add some fatigue to a route that is a solid 13a. The resulting route has three distinct crux sections separated by two OK shakes, requiring a combination of power, technique and stamina.

This fun route ascends a blunt arete.  Start just left of the arete, move up and right to the arete, then up to chains.

A shorter (4 bolt) route on the furthest right side of the gorgeous clifflet past Aquaduck Pocket and Henry.

The aesthetically stunning arete just to the right of To Defy the Laws of Tradition.  Begin standing on the large flat boulder and step across to a bouldery start.  The route is interesting the entire way, requiring many thoughtful moves with the crux just before the anchors.  Superb route.

Follow the bolt line through a short, nice handcrack then more bolts to chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Left Flank