Medulla Oblongata is very similar in nature to 48, some enjoyable, but hard climbing to a good rest, after the rest enjoy some jugs up to a crux run to the chains. I think they are both equally enjoyable and should both see more traffic.

Medulla Oblongata

Kodak Courage

Ivy Mike

An Affair to Remember

The Milkmaid

Princess Di

40 oz to Freedom

Foreplay

Bingo Baby

Three Easy Pieces

Protozoa

No Remorse

Gun in the Mouth Blues

Chockdust Torture

Bringer of Light

The Beckoning Call

Cosmic Imperative

If I Only Had a Brain

Slopbuckets

Gordon's Linkup

The Tuba

This route starts on the ledge next to An Affair to Remember. It heads straight up to finish on chains. It is a good idea to start with the first bolt stick clipped.

The crux on this route is pulling over the roof. It has a jugs at the top and a technical start.

This is a technical route that start on the far right side of the gully.

This route starts on the ledge at the right side of the wall. It is the farthest route to the left and crosses 40 oz to Freedom and pulls the roof to the left.

A really good mid-11 route with a little bit of everything

American Fork

has to offer. Starts out essentially vertical, then the angle eases a bit, and ends up slightly overhanging.

Start with some fun liebacking movement through the first couple of bolts, move a bit higher, notice the feet disappear , so stem to the leaning slab to the right. Get back solely onto the face when able and continue up using pockets of varying usefulness (and sharpness).

Near the top the pockets get smaller and, perversely, someone turned most of them the wrong way. Feet are harder to find (but they're there), and a bit of body positioning flexibility will see it though to the chains.

This is a super classic route with fun movement.

This route shares the first couple of bolts with Protozoa then continues straight up under the roof and pulls the roof to the right and finishes several bolts above the roof. This is a super classic endurance route!

A technical start with good, but tricky holds to the first bolt, then a pumpy bit to get established into the open book above. Once established, cruiser climbing to the chains.

This is a crimpy powerful route that pulls over the roof.

A seemingly impossible start (particularly if you're shorter) leads to a good rest. (One piece)

A delicate move is followed by a bit of pumpy climbing on some large holds, followed by another rest. (Two pieces)

The last section to the chains is pleasingly technical with the occasional I-really-hope-I-can-find-a-hold-soon moment. (Three pieces)

A strenuous, mildly nerve-wracking start (don't fall before the first bolt) through two bolts, then fun almost-corner climbing to a lip.

Tricky, seemingly-committing climbing (you're not going to get hurt) over the lip and then to the chains.

An enjoyable jaunt up less-than-vertical limestone, using some big edges and jugs, a few small pockets, and chert-edged crimps here and there.

The start is mildly intimidating, even though there is a huge jug on which to start because the move to get to and clip the second bolt is a stretch and you're close to the ground. After standing up on the big, starting jug, continue up through some fun movement using sidepulls and balance. Near the middle of the route you'll wonder where the bigger holds went; fortunately, chert comes to the rescue.

The top is a bit of fun; going far left and then cutting back to the chains is probably easier than going straight up, but not as rewarding.

This route has a powerful technical start and then once the roof is pulled it leads to jugs to the top.

Mildly technical climbing to a roof, followed by strenuous moves from poor feet to surmount the roof.

After the roof comes pumpy, slightly overhanging climbing until you traverse left onto the face after the fifth bolt. (If you go right at the fifth bolt you're on

If I Only Had a Brain

.)

Easier climbing to the top with good pockets (and a surprise at the end).

This route is a super classic that is the middle route in the gully. It has some technical sections and you pull the roof in the middle.

Balancy moves on edges and sidepulls lead up to a strenuous roof with big, oddly-cambered holds and poor feet. Fight the pump through the steepness to large holds up top, and then a reachy clip at the chains.

A technical start with crimpy sidepulls and devious feet leads to occasional pockets and chert edges.

Start up the tricky first bit to the second bolt, then gain a brief respite on better feet. Surmount the first of two bulges into pockets, and then the second bulge with reachy moves between good holds. Finally, enjoy chert edges to the chains.

Shares the first five bolts with Bringer of Light and then splits right. Redpoint crux at the very top.

A bouldery start leads to fun technical climbing at the top.

This route begins on Bringer of Light and heads left after the first bolt to join Chockdust Torture at the 5th bolt and finishes on Chockdust Torture.

The crux of this route is pulling the bulge. It is a classic route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bingo Baby