This is really just a variation to

Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers

. The crack is easy, but it gets you up the lowest section quickly. When the crack ends, it is a good idea to clip the 2nd bolt on

Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers

.  The third bolt is more in line with the crack but is higher up. A #2 Camalot fits well at the top of the crack. Continue to the top clipping the bolts on

Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers

. The route is not great, but if you are at the Little Dome, it is easy to do.

Ending Crack

Walking in the Rain

Flakey

Motor Breath

Arching Way

Garden Party

Original Sin

Goofy

Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers

Look for the crack on the right side of the rock (See

of

Flakey

).

P1. Follow the crack up to a sloping ledge with large rock leaning against it and belay, 100'. If only doing P1, walk off/downclimb to the right. There did not seem to be a distinct crux. There may be a second pitch or an extension of the first (I will investigate next time). Upon returning we tried a short crack (30-40 ft, see photo, right of rope) to the right of the belay. This is definitely harder than the first pitch, possibly 5.8. Although short I enjoyed this more than the first pitch.

P2. To be edited in.

The route is easily spotted.  It is the giant flake in the middle of the rock that ends at a tree.  The route starts just to the right of Arching Way in a good size crack.  The crux is a little wide but comes quickly and isn't bad at all.  Soon the flake will be obvious on your right.  Head right and get ready to climb one of the nicer cracks I have experienced.

My two biggest pieces were a #3 Camalot and a #4 Friend so I placed the #3 as high as I could and then started up.  I slid my #4 until the angle lessened up and ran it out to the belay.  The rock isn't steep so it makes for an easy but fun lieback.  You can walk or rap off from the belay.  If you're in the area it's a fun route.

Do you want one more pitch after slab climbing at The Dome/Little Dome?  Look no furthur! This pitch is the perfect way to finish the day.  Clip 3 bolts as you stem, lieback, or use offwidth techniques to surmount this beautiful climb.  This is an old fashioned South Platte 5.9 peppered with a + here and there.

Arching Way is a very nice, long, moderate climb. There is a system of cracks right in the middle of the rock, and this one is on the left side of that system. There is one bolt, just above the crack as it angles to the left. It is very old, and I don't think it's really needed. At least it was there when I climbed it a few years back. Use the bolt, but don't be fooled into starting on the face. Just keep moving along the crack till you get to the rap slings about 130' from the deck. You can finish with easy 5th Class climbing up and left to exit, or do a double rope rappel down if the slings are good.

This route is horrible due to the vegetation you have to climb over and through.  It has a good name except it is no party. There is a good stance above the bush, but the hanger-less bolts above are not appealing. The first bolt has a nut on it that makes it hard to put a wire on it. Bring a small adjustable wrench if you have one, and loosen the nut before you put a wire on it. I wish I had had one.  You move right at the first bolt to a crack that leads up to the slab with the last two bolts. You can place pro in this crack. Two more bolts protect the slab up to the tree, and this area contains the crux. All the slab moves feel thin and difficult. I would not do this route if you are at the rock.

This is the natural line climber's right of

Flakey

& Garden Party - it has a small tree in the flaring, starting crack. Start on flaring finger locks & thin feet (RPs), grab a jug on the lower seam, & pull into a perfect hand crack (is more vertical than it looks from the ground). Exit the handcrack and move up a slab at .8+. It's a fun mix of climbing for 30m.

Start just right of

Flakey

(See beta

of

Flakey

and photo below).  Scramble up and right to a crack.  The first option is to go straight up to a finger crack which will join

Flakey

.  The second option is to follow an overhanging crack to the right, maneuver around a large bush then take an offwidth up to the upper crack of

Flakey

.  Smaller people may be able to squeeze through an avoid the offwidth.  The physical crux for me was the overhanging crack and the bush.  The mental crux was running it out up the easy offwidth with no gear (largest piece #5 Camalot).  I thought the route for me was a little more challenging (exciting) than its neighbor

Flakey

.

Beer Drinkers... starts on the slab to the left of the obvious crack of

Arching Way

.  I gave this an "s" because the first bolt -- an old bolt -- is about 25 feet up, and if you fall you are bound to break something.

This is delicate South Platte slab: balancy, interesting, small.  It felt very sustained up to the 3rd bolt, then eases as you head around the corner to the right.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Little Dome