This is cool arete climbing on massive chickenheads. This is the only warm-up on Devil's Gate proper, and I must say, it serves its purpose well. It is an excellent introduction to the nature of Devil's Head rock. This is a little chilly in the fall and spring for a morning warm-up due to its location in a small slot which acts like a funnel for cool air.

Shout at the Devil

Demon Seed

The Devil Went Down on Georgia

Runnin' With the Devil

Demons & Wizards

Devil's Vista

Heads Up

The Devil Wears Prana

Surfing with the Devil

Devil's Corner

Devil's Cupcake

The Devil's Own Stone

Deviled Eggs

Devil Dog

Demon Semen

Hell's Heartbreaker

The Burning Cauldon

Dammit Samet

The Devil's Duodenum

Clip the first two bolts of

Devil's Gate 2

or don't - the pro is good. At the ledge, move into the corner a few feet left of

DG2

. Stem and jam up to a slight roof formed by a protruding chockstone. Pull over this, and continue stemming up to easier terrain. Top out via a wide scraper chimney with pro in the back.

Demon Seed is a short but good climb past 2 bolts to a crack, then jam and layback your way past the crack to a nice finish and the anchor. This climb is right of Deviled Ham on the main wall. Crack gloves were nice on this one if you hand jam the crack verses laybacking it.

This route is directly behind

Devil's Gate 2

. Climb up the bolt line just left of a prominent crack on a small rock fin/tower. The route stays shady most of the day.

Start up

Demons & Wizards

for two bolts, then crux your way to the right past small crimps and crystals for 3 bolts.  Clip the 3rd "right" bolt (fifth overall) with a sling, and traverse right again to gain another line of bolts. The upper half of the route hosts 3 crux bulges separated by great rests that might be easier for taller folks.

Start with some fierce crimping for the first four bolts. This is the crux section of the route and flows really well if you get the right sequence. From the fourth bolt, do a fun, slam-dunk move to the downward pointing flake. The moves from the fourth to seventh bolts are steep and fun! The second half of the route essentially climbs the arete of the 5.10a route to the left, but you'll clip separate bolts. I'm sure you could stay on the face and follow the bolt line directly.... Regardless, the first half of this route is quite fun, but I feel it loses stars because of the contrived nature of the upper section.

Man, does this puppy pack a punch. Short and pumpy characterizes this bulldog. It has great stone all the way up following discontinuous cracks and edges. This gets late morning sun, making this climb a good warm-up. It is a great route and is not to be missed.

This is the left sport route on the prow of the rock fin that is directly behind

Devils Gate 2

.

Climb the left bolt line up an interesting crack to face climbing to the anchor. The crux is between the first and second bolt. It shares an anchor with

The Devil Wears Prana

.

This is the right sport route on the prow of the rock fin that is directly behind

Devils Gate 2

.

Climb up to a bench (easy), clip the first bolt, and then climb chickenheads to the anchor. This shares an anchor with

Heads Up

.

Follow a couple of bolts on edges and patina to a crack system. It is a worthy and enjoyable route, reminiscent of the Solarium routes in the Lower West Side.

Climb on jams, chickenheads, and jugs, but this is not very long. There are two bolts on a sport route on the right side of the arete for descent or TR with a directional.

The Devil's Own Stone is an great route on great stone that involves a good deal of stamina. Begin on some solid feeling, kitty litter type rock to the first bolt. I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt or climb slightly better rock on

Devil Dog

to the left, reaching over, clipping, then trending right to the second bolt and the goodness.

A word of advice: be careful when leading this if there is another party on

Devil Dog

, they share or come close to sharing some holds around the fifth bolt.

This route is rather atypical for the area. Instead of the normal crimp ladders seen on most of the climbs, Deviled Eggs has quite a few large moves on big, flat ledges.

Begin by climbing threw a beach ball-size hole on the slab to reach the overhanging, red face. Execute a reachy move getting to the second bolt, continuing up on easy terrain until reaching a mini-bulge around the fifth bolt. Get a good rest, crank the crux, and hold on to the anchor. This is a great route.

I cannot express how amazing this route is. For the grade, it has to be one of the better routes in the Front Range.

Start by clipping the first bolt from a great chickenhead to a break before the spectacular red face. Charge up the face on seemingly identical crimps for about 40 feet until the rock changes a bit, lending itself to more interesting but just as good holds. Don't miss this one.

Scramble to the belay platform that is located at the base of

The Burning Cauldon

and

Devil's Vista

. Locate the obvious, thin, parallel crack on the right wall, and climb the crack to a bush. Climb over the bush to a two bolt anchor.

This route start near a tree and climbs up some amazing 5.11 edges and patinas for about 65 feet to an okay rest before tackling a somewhat baffling upper crux to the chains.

With a little more traffic, this route could clean up real nice. Per usual, climb four or five bolts on great edges and flakes to the arete proper and, higher up, to a small corner. Surmount the small overhang on sloping, slightly mossy holds to the anchor. This gets great morning sun and is one of the first section on the wall to get sunshine.

Dammit Samet is an awesome route right up the center of Devil's Gate. It is the line that makes you say to yourself, "I gotta rock climb that rock climb!" The route starts with a finger crack and has several cruxes mixed in with decent rests.

The Rakkup app lists it as 12d, my partner and I agreed on 12b. Get on it and decide for yourself!

Scramble to the belay platform that is located at the base of

The Burning Cauldon

and

Devil's Vista

. Locate the obvious, somewhat wide crack on the right side of the right wall. Climb the hand crack as it widens to an easy OW. Finish back on good sized hands to a two bolt anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Devil's Gate