This is the third crack from the left on the north face of Castle Rock.  It is a secure jam and chimney.

Two Point Crack

Music Box

Bella Lugosi

Half Crack

Chimney Sweep

Belly Dancer

Count Dracula

Diagnostics

That Old Soft Shoe

Junction Chimney

Love at First Bite

Ground Finale

Diabetics

Bride of Frankenstein

Transylvania Twist

One Point Crack

This is the second crack from the left on the north face of Castle Rock.  A tricky chimney move at the start leads to hand jamming, and then a few face moves at the top.

This is the crack left of

Bella Lugosi

. An easy start leads to some wide and flaring jams with some helpful features on the face to the left.

It feels a bit strenuous for a few moves.

Thin crimping right off the ground gains a crack where the difficulty eases and good protection can be found; higher the crack peters out and a bolt is found to protect increasingly easier slab moves to the top.

The name is a play on Bela Lugosi - the star of the classic 1931 horror movie "Dracula".

This is the leftmost crack on the north face of Castle Rock.  It is a strenuous offwidth.

This is a secure chimney with easy moves.

This was the first route up the large boulder at the west end of Castle Rock.   Start out by climbing up an easy crack, then head out onto the steep face and go up (crux) to the top.  Steep and exciting.  Rappel to descend.

Boulder up fairly high past some stiff moves to a bolt and continue up past two more to the top. Gear needed for anchor and walk off right (climber's).

An interesting bit of trivia - On the first ascent the resourceful climbers dragged a picnic table over to the base of the wall, stood it on end, and finished drilled the first bolt standing atop it.

On the right side of the Northwest face just right of Count Dracula lies this climb up a left-facing corner with plates and jugs.

A short climb that features good rock and steep, fun moves. A good choice on a warm day as it gets plenty of shade.

In the center of the Northwest face there are two slanting chimney/cracks that join  at the top forming a sort of inverted vee. This climb lies roughly 25' left of the left chimney/crack and climbs a section of smooth face protected by six bolts [4 of which were replaced 4/00 - ed.].

Due to it's well protected nature and and quality stone this is a popular climb of this area, one that should not be missed.

This is a fun, secure, low angle chimney.

This is a pleasant, unprotected steep face on solid, knobby holds.  It's really more of a boulder problem than a roped climb.  The hard moves are in the first 15' - 20', with a good landing below.

A few hard face moves at the start lead to easy 5th class climbing above.  There is no protection, but you have a good landing if you come off on the hard part.

This route ascends the lower angle section of the Northwest Face, just visible from the picnic table there. This is right of Count Dracula and just right of Diagnostics.  The climb goes up a few face moves to reach a juggy wide crack (hands to OW) that appears to protect well with hexes or large cams. The crack stops before the climb tops out, leaving the leader with a little space between them and their last piece to finish on the top of the big flake.  Belay on gear at the big flake before climbing up and to the right, then down the standard downclimb.I do not feel that this is that great of a climb for ultra-beginners.  Despite the easy grade, the anchor situation is not straight forward, being in a lateral crack above the flake, running side-to-side and opening up downward... A down-climb is the standard descent which may be mellow for most, but not a 5.4 climber.

This is a toprope problem climbing the thin face between That Old Soft Shoe and Transylvania Twist.

This climb is the bolted route just to the right of Old Soft Shoe. This is a pure crimpfest and it helps to be able to high step - it seems pretty sustained. This route also seems harder than Old Soft Shoe.

Two Point Crack

Description

Protection

Routes in Castle Rock - North Side