Unknown 5.9 right of Phlegmfoot

Unknown 2

Overhang

Unknown 3

Unknown 1

Unknown Huecoed 5.6

Jesus Dashboard aka Dashboard Saint

Evil Barbecue

Easy Witch

Dashboard Variation

Lunge for Jesus

Unknown 4

Squidbelly Phlegmfoot

Black Magic Draino

Squidbelly Phlegmfoot has pumpy hueco and layback climbing.

Line of bolts up rib/arete feature.  Might bring a little thin gear for the start.  Listed as 5.9 in guide.  I'm the last to inflate grades, but that is just plain innaccurate.

Worth doing if you are in the area.

Start on an undercling rail while smearing your feet, traverse to another rail, use an omg hold under the roof, then climb a very thin top out over the edge of the roof.

A fun outing and worth doing if you are in the area.  Listed as 5.9 in the guide, this route is at least as hard as the 5.10c on the left of the tombstone feature in the first group of climbs.  You will enjoy this route more if you place a nut or cam enroute to the first bolt.  The route gets steep here with fun moves on steep pockets.

This is a fun, little thing to set up for folks who have never climbed before and located close to some nice 9s, 10s, and an 11, so a group can camp out here for a while with folks of all abilities.

Climb the low angled, huecoed face past an old homemade hanger (now 3 bolts) and up to chains.  Make sure you put gear in the horizontal before stepping right and going up to chain anchor.

Excellent, low angle, hueco climbing a small, steep headwall.

Climb up crack feature on right of blank wall beside nice juniper shade tree and then go straight up the rounded arete above.  The climb is listed in the guide as an 11 and it is if the bolt line is followed.  The natural line trends right of the bolts and is 5.10.  Both ways are worth a go.  As with most Mullins' routes, the bolt placement is less than ideal.

This is on the right side of the canyon as the road/trail dips and crosses a dry streambed.

It is protected by 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The 1st bolt is low. The 2nd bolt is at about 20 feet, but it is easier to get to than it looks. There are fun moves with the crux passing the 3rd bolt.

It looks a bit loose but is not.  This has decent, easy climbing with good pro.

This is a fun variation to the 5."11"

Jesus Dashboard

. Start is the same but after the initial steep, crack feature work left on the ramp and up a gently overhanging, pocketed face.

NOTE: a few years ago the anchors had been vandalized but have since been replaced.

Do a boulder problem start to a shelf. I went up the middle off of a decent hold. It looks like others have gone up left of that. Clip the 1st bolt, move up, and get the 2nd. Then pull fun moves with huge holds over the roof. Clip the 3rd bolt (scary), and then make crux moves past the 4th bolt. This is a great climb with a lot of different types of moves.

Per

Jesse Morehouse

: a stickclip may be nice.

This is a combination of 2 submissions' information on the 1st submission's page...done to avoid confusion/duplication.

A fun little route worth doing if you happened to bring a rack to a sport climbing area.  Climb obvious crack to shuts.  There are two shuts on the route at the crux which are unnecessary if you know how to place thin gear.

This ascends the obvious crack of the formation. Climb directly up with fun stemming and pocketed moves protected on gear. When all the features disappear, jump into the crack, and finish on good jams. You can get a gear anchor to the left or use the tree to the right!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Canyon Road Cliffs