Climb from a low start into the northeast arete, trending back to the east face along the diagonal.  Topout off the deck.  

 From the starting jug/lip-crimp, make move on crimps to reach the incredible shelf/jug.  Move left along the diagonal on the east face.  

Northeast Arete

Northeast Arete Stand

Halcyon Nights

A Colorful Little Orgy

East Face

Start the Northeast arete from the large shelf jug.  Head left as for that route.  

Starting the same as A Colorful Little Orgy on a left crescent jug low on the east face and right on an undercling pinch brick just under the roof adjacent to the jug, make the same hard sequence into the crimps on the lip of the north face arete and climb upwards into the jug shelf. From here, bust right onto the north face through a bizarre V6 or 7 face climb involving tenuous, delicate and extremely reachy movement on poor-to-non-holds with decent feet to the positive lip above an undercling arch feature. 

 Highly morpho and will feel easier with good conditions–the FA was done late night by floodlights for the best temperatures.

Start left hand on obvious crescent jug at the bottom of the east face and right on an undercling pinch just under the roof below the jug. Make a hard move(s) (long arms helpful) into a crimp on the arete on lip of the north face and finish on "Northeast Arete Sit". 

 AKA the Jake Croft Memorial Boulder Problem and formerly The Summit Project. Found and tried by Raines, then handed off to Jake, who tried it extensively before moving to Sweden and handing it off to me. Psyched to finish the duo's hard work on this one in a night sesh with our homie Jefe.

From the high center rail on the east face, make a big move out right to the diagonal rail.  Follow this feature to topout the same as the Northeast Arete.  

 A beautiful sheer overhanging face, visible from the piped Quartzite spring. This boulder looks small from the trail, but will look intimidatingly tall when your standing under it, as the landing slopes away.

 I highly recommend bringing singles BD 0.3-0.5 or equivalent and two sections of ~8ft cord to fix your pads, as some of the landing is on angling slab.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Quartzite Spring Boulder