Sit start and match on the giant hole. A couple moves will get you a kneebar, and continue up. The rock quality is questionable, go easy on the brushing. As time goes on, this route will likely become easier.

Pollen

Crimp Corner

Pollen Direct

Russian Dictator

Booze Cruise

Dunkin' Donuts Go Nuts

DISCLAIMER: I tried my best to decipher whether this is simply a repeat of Pollen (V2) or a new variation. With the extremely sparse information surrounding Pollen, my best guess is that this is indeed a more difficult variation, and that the original veers off to the left after the start. This could obviously be wrong, but regardless I will document in much more detail this climb, because I think it is simply fantastic and is easily my favorite in the reservation.

 This climb begins with a sit start on the hole in the wall. From there, it progresses through a few easy moves until the right hand leverages a deep three finger sidepull, allowing the left hand to swing up into the crux hold. This hold itself is quite good, comfortably allowing three fingers on the left hand. I, however, found that in order to successfully match this hold I needed to only catch it with two and stack them on the left side. This allowed for the match and top out. The footholds are good the whole way up. Most holds are deep but will only accommodate 2 or 3 fingers, making this climb feel very unique for the rock type.

 Beta video HERE.

Use mainly crimps for holds and two good foot holds halfway up. I'm pretty tall, so if you're short, you may find it harder. 

facebook.com/andrew.livings…

The crux is just pulling off the ground. You start with left hand on a slippery quartz hold and right hand on a good crimp. Heel hook with your left leg around the arête, pull up, and reach up to good but sharp crimp. Then just work you way up the arête using good holds to a good topout.

Do a standing start. Start with your feet inside the large hole, and grab the starting jugs. Continually move up right as you cruise through the great cracks and crimps whilst taking advantage of excellent feet. For me, the crux is probably topping out. This is a great climb for beginners who might have a little more strength than technique. The topout is a bit lower than the other climbs (10-12 feet), so it's great for a gym climber who might be intimidated by an outdoor fall.

Sit start with two decent holds: your right foot on the block and your left foot on a small foot chip close to the ground. Crank on the start holds (compression), and rock up onto your right foot. From here, you can stand up and cruise through the horizontal finger cracks/crimps. This route has a lot of big moves and is super fun! The quality of rock is excellent, and the area has a safe flat landing. It feels like an instant classic to me :)

This is a colonial era lime quarry.  It is open for bouldering.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chelmsford Lime Quarry