Jump start. Slap onto some terrible, but sharp, slopers. Campus to another slightly better right hand. Then mantel? Good luck. Keep your body tension as you get your feet placed. Then keep climbing straight up and over the bulge on some extremely small grains. Maybe practice this on a rope first, it's pretty tall.

Fight Club

Tall Edgy

Saigon Direct

Saigon

Monkey Dihedral

Unnamed V0

Climb the decent face in the middle of the Monkey boulder.

Though not quite as classic as Saigon, this worthy line avoids the punchy Saigon crux via a direct line of holds to the left that lead to a traverse back right into the Saigon finish. In some way it seems easier than Saigon but maybe it's because I'm short. In any case, start as for Saigon. Instead of getting the left hand pinch/sidepull and heading right, move straight up from here via a couple of possible sequences to a high pinch/edge. This is where you start to feel the air beneath you a bit. Move right from this hold with difficulty and rejoin Saigon for the finish.

This awesome singular prow problem on perfect rock is a 3 move wonder in between easier sections, but man, those are 3 killer moves.

Teasingly easy entry moves lead to two height-dependent crux sequences. For most taller people like myself, its a wild lean out right with the right hand to a sloper-type thingy utilizing a left heel hook. A left hand power up to a bulbous crimp sets you up for the big, flying move to a killer jug! Match and crank off a few knobs and small but positive plates up off the deck, to the blunt top out.

Other people may have to match hands on the bulbous crimp (YIKES!!) and continue.

IMO this is a height-dependent rating...

This boulder problem is sooo good, it got me psyched to get my pads out of storage!!

Stem your way up the shallow scoop into the "dihedral" using good sidepulls, gastons and other edges.  Exit right at the top of the dihedral or continue straight up for full value.

Start 10 feet to the right of the arrete with two large flakes. Go straight up even more flakes and hang a left before the top. A slightly more challenging variation goes direct.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Saigon Boulder