Some really thin and devious knob pulling, but quite fun!

Shiner

You Asked For It

Mercury Falling

Bachar-Yerian

Dude Looks Like a Lady

Shipoopi!

Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1

Shady Rest

15 Minutes of Fame

Pretty in Pinkpoint, P2

Lead Doll

Ciebola

Shard

Dress Rehearsal

Big Time

Peace

Hill Crest Drive

Really fun knobs lead to, yet again, another high (and tricky) crux.

The appropriately named "You Asked For It" ascends the largest black streak on the right end of Medlicott. It features enormous runouts over sustained and difficult climbing; another bold statement route from Bachar.

There are two options for the approach pitch. Both end on a broad ledge below the steep, imposing headwall.

1) Wander directly up the black streak on grainy rock with funky climbing and poor protection. 5.10

2) Start further right and climb a giant left rising flake at 5.7. This is likely the better option.

Pitch 1

After the approach pitch, set a belay to the left behind a good flake with 3/4" to 1.25" cams. Work up and right on balancy, cranker moves to the first bolt at 15 feet. Carry on with more of the same to the second bolt at 45 feet. Continue right to better holds then back left and eventually the belay. This is a very serious pitch with ledge fall potential for a good portion of it. "5.10c" X, 75 feet

Pitch 2

Head straight up off the belay wondering where the holds went to the only bolt at 30 feet. Continue up on smeary, difficult slab climbing to a stance ten feet from the belay. Compose yourself and make one last hard move to the ledge and belay. Again, a very serious pitch. "5.10c" X, 115 feet

Pitch 3

Head up and right off the belay to an out of sight bolt 40 feet out. Continue up another 40 feet or so to a bizarre hole that takes a #3 camalot. Run it out another 50 feet to the belay. 5.10 X, 130 feet

Join "One Toke Over the Line" to the top and walk off or rap the route with two ropes.

Climbs some white rock to a black streak. Starting just below a flake that can be underclinged once established on the slab the first bolt can be reached from there. A few different ways to do a little mantle move past the flake will reward you with edges and knobs to the second bolt. A few moves to a sloping ledge and a third bolt. The crux is moving above that bolt to another sloping ledge. A fall here could result in hitting the sloping ledge. Much bigger knobs and edges from that sloping ledge up and then left to the anchor of "Dude Looks Like a Lady"

P1-5.11c/.12a

Head up the ramp at the left end of the B-Y ledge for a ways, then climb easy knobs up to the base of the prominent black streak, reach from the horizontal to clip a bolt. V3/V4 boulder problem, and all that that implies about the grade, gets you established above the bulge, clip another bolt. continuous 5.11- climbing gets you to a left facing flake that would take a .75 camalot, I believe. Follow the flake to the anchor. Relatively well protected, though pounding into the slab would not be pleasant.

P2-5.11a

Steep right off the belay and clip a bolt, no factor 2 falls. Look up, compose yourself and set off on through the slightly overhanging sea of knobs passing 3 bolts in 120' on the way to the next anchor. One of the BEST pitches ANYWHERE, if this was on East Cottage and had 6 bolts you would have to wait in line all day just to get on it.

P3-5.10d

Less steep that the previous 2 pitches with hard moves right off the belay and again the last 10' before getting to the horizontal. Traverse right about 30' to the next anchor, using stoppers and thin cams to protect the traverse.

P4-5.8/9

Climb the flared, knobby, lichen covered (doesn't pro real well) crack to its end and a 1/4" bolt. If you have the luxury of an old, old Tuolumne guide book then you will see that it says to traverse right into a left facing corner, I instead headed straight up from the 1/4" bolt on terrifying flaky way more runout slab climbing to the top. Needless to say I don't have a very good description for the end of the route.

Thoughts:

I would recommend rapping after the first 3 pitches as it did not seem that the top got done very often and it saves you from having to carry shoes for the descent.

I really felt that the first pitch involved a V3/4 boulder problem and one other person I talked to that had lead the pitch agreed, perhaps the first pitch is actually 5.12a, but for now I'll leave it at 5.11c since that is so much better than the original 5.10+ rating.

If you can get through the first pitch the second should be doable.

The bolts are beefy, not 1/4"ers (until the 4th pitch) and the 2nd and 3rd pitches have bolts pretty much right off the belays, so perhaps R/X or even R is more appropriate or maybe E5 6a. . . I think?

The second pitch is a true standout

Climb edges of golden polish for the first 2 bolts to a rest on good knobs. Continue straight up for another 2 bolts on slab and knobs. After the fouth bolt and a good rest at a small left leaning ramp, go up and right on small knobs until it eases after the 6th bolt. Two open cold shuts and one bolt for and anchor.

This is a great route that offers awesome, well-bolted knob climbing, some fun roof-pulling, and a great view of the Bachar-Yerian. All anchors are bolted.

P1: 5.11a

Start in the plant filled dihedral and climb out right following the blocky dike band (first bolt in the middle) until reaching the small the roof. Pull the roof where there is an obvious jug/point and a possible fixed nut. Continue up and right on some slabby face knobs to the anchor. (4 Bolts, Smallish gear below roof)

P2: 5.11d

This is the money pitch. Sustained, thin knob climbing that wanders up and around a straight line of bolts. The crux comes at the top. (11 Bolts)

P3/4: 5.10d /5.12a

It is possible to link these pitches since the fourth is about 15ft long. The anchors at the top of the 4th are questionable. Begin the 3rd with with the crux right off the belay (4 Bolts). On the 4th, pull the roof via a lond reach to a jug. Continue straight up through crimpy seams (2 Bolts).

A good warmup. Like the other sport routes in the area, this one starts of the Bachar-Yerian ledge. A low crux on a mini-roof with lots of fun, moderate knob climbing above.

Another fun face route with lots of moderate (yet stimulating) knob climbing to a high crux.

Begin pitch two by clipping the first bolt and climbing out right to good holds. traversing back left to angled rail is the crux. Hold on to the top, using the flake and other small crimps. Clipping the anchors may be a second crux if you are small.

Crux is at the sixth bolt.

Vertical, technical, crimpy, somewhat continuous, good footwork required.

Ciebola has two excellent, but very different pitches.

Pitch 1 follows a thin crack past a pin and a bolt.  Good thin cams/stoppers here.  I think getting to the bolt is the crux of the pitch.  Face traverse left around the roof 5.9+ and easy face leads past 2 bolts on a knobby face.  Run it out on stimulating climbing 20 feet to the bolted belay, exciting 5.9+ here.  25 meters.

Pitch 2 head out right and up a ways on easy climbing to the first bolt.  Up and right a ways again on exciting 5.9+ climbing to the second bolt then the bolts seem to come much more often for well protected, sustained knob climbing.  At the eighth bolt climb up then right to 3 more bolts and a long traverse to the bolted belay.  This traverse can be hairy for the second.  30 meters.

Rappel straight to the ground 60 meters or 30 meters (one rope) to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of Alien with a second 30 meter rappel to the ground.

Delicate knobby flake that leads to cool but a bit vegetated corner which thins and disappears (at the anchor). The climbing is not hard, but with a combination of potentially fragile knobs plus thin cams behind a not-super-bomber flake, this is a somewhat serious lead with an "alpine" feel.

Devious climbing that is alternately bouldery and slabby.  I thought there were a number of tricky cruxes, with perhaps the hardest around bolts two and three.

Peace is one of the greatest face climbs in Yosemite. Maybe the greatest. The second pitch climbs a gold and black ocean of crazy knobs with a bolt every ten feet or so. It's technical face climbing at its finest. There's an 11d p.1start that begins on vertical dark rock with mega thin holds. If you're looking for an easier warm up I would recommend the 5.10 start 20 feet to the right. You need two ropes to rap (even with an 80m)

Nice face climbing.  The first bolt is up aways but there are some little ledgey features to help you approach it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Face, Right