Free Picnic Lunch Wall

Bubbas In Bondage

Black Friday

Voyage of the Cowdog

Breathe

Coleslaw and Chemicals

Teddy Bear's Picnic

Touch

The Big R

The Veteran

Sharing is Caring

Free Lunch

La Siesta

The Way Life Goes

Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch)

Driveway Gravel

Appian Way

Five Easy Pieces (start)

Snack Attack

Honey Pot

Sharing is (open project)

Starvation Fruit

Five Easy Pieces

Suicidal Tendencies

Picnic Lunch Wall

The Great Gig in the Sky

High Noon

Spartacus

Although this route garners a single star in the Watts guidebook, I found the climbing to be sustained and mentally scintillating on good to excellent rock. The crux entails unorthodox moves over a small roof half way to the top but there are many difficult sections beginning off the ground. Reaching the anchors requires climbing over a second small roof (10+) about 10' above the last bolt. A fall would be undesirable at this point.

An easier variation start to the original pinic lunch wall route. Very Steep! 

  P1 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11c? - Retro Bolted into a sport route this pitch is now MUCH easier once A3+ and very heads up, now it can go free semi easily. Follow bolts to a clean low angle diheadral. Move up diheadral on gear make a short free move to bomber belay.    P2 - A2 - Mostly all original bolts with the occasional sawed off pin placement. Very steep. Ends at belay 2 on original Picnic Lunch Wall route. 

  P3-P5 Follow original Picnic Lunch Wall route to the top.

Very strange, bouldery route. The crux has a very hard v9ish sequence on tiny crimps. Has funky, cool movement up to a jug right before the crux. And a heartbreaker right before the finish. I probably sandbagged this one.... it's pretty hard for 5.13d.

Pitch one starts at the top of the gully separating the table scraps wall from ship rock.  Climb an easy slab that wanders right into a steepening water groove and exit onto the ridge through a shallow chimney (5.8).  Pitch two consists of basically moving the belay 60' up the scenic ridge to the base of the final pitch (5.5).  Pitch three is the money pitch that justifies the mediocre 1st and 2nd pitch.  Climb the airy slab through several steep bulges to a crux high step with entire height of the Picnic lunch wall beneath you (5.8).

This second pitch line is the access route leading up to The Great Gig in the Sky. From the ground, start out climbing the first pitch of Sharing is Caring. When you reach the first pitch anchors, mantel the easy ledge and traverse right on the big ledge system leading to the start of Breathe. 

 Enjoy the tight bolt spacing while working up this friction slab. Crimps and bigger holds seem to appear when needed. The crux of the route seems to come about 3/4 of the way up, followed by the redpoint crux immediately after.  

 Rappel down to the ground from the belay station at the start of Breathe. 60m gets you down.

This route is really fun and unique for Smith, featuring both slopers and xenoliths.  The first three bolts feature some surprisingly long moves between sloping holds.  The whole middle part of the route travels through relatively easy juggy terrain.  The first six bolts probably rate in around 11d. 

  Immediately after clipping the sixth bolt the climbing gets increasingly harder.  The last nubbiny crux is probably around V6/7.  The difficulty continues all the way to the very last move.  Hope you're good at pinching/underclinging/mantling nubbins.

Maybe three stars...This fine route just keeps getting better as you go.Pitch 1:Climb through huge huecos to a bolt just left of the 1st bolt on Honey Pot. Follow the thin slabby face above on little knobs. to an anchor.5.10c 100'Pitch 2: Move up and right through some choss to a clean face above. Follow bolts to a cruxy move just below a ledge with an anchor.5.10 55'Pitch 3: Move right on beautiful red stone and follow the edge with a lot of air below your feet until you hit the arete and go straight following bolts to a ledge. The anchors at this ledge are NOT for TBP - look up and to the left to see two more bolts following the arete to chain anchors above a smaller ledge (more in line with a rappel down to the first pitch anchors). 5.10b 60' (can easily be combined with pitch 2)Rap the route in two single rope rappels.

This route climbs clean, vertical rock on shallow pockets and edges for the first few bolts, culminating in a technical crux around the fourth bolt. Once you've pulled through the hard moves, the route continues for another 25 feet on enjoyable, 5.10 terrain.

Super awesome route. Starts on 5.12 up until a no hands rest. Pull through some big moves on flat edges to gain a left facing plate. Pull through a burly v8 sequence to get a left facing arête. More 5.12 to the top slab (vertical). From here, navigate through a minefield of tiny edges on perfect rock. High in the grade.

Very technical, difficult slab climbing. Has very bad footholds and bad handholds. Hard from the start to the finish, with a crux section from bolt 4-6

Sharing is Caring is located on the far right side of the Picnic Lunch Wall at Smith Rock State Park.

 P1: 5.10b, 13 bolts. Classic Smith slab nubbin climbing. Climb through a bomber flake section down low leading to perfect Smith nubbin climbing up high . Fun stuff! The route gets easier the higher you go. Fixed steel anchors have been added to the first pitch.

 P2: 5.11c 13 bolts. Work up the arete and slab until the route busts right and climbs through the overhang on jugs. Pulling the lip is probably the hardest move.

P3: 5.11a 11 bolts. Fixed anchors. Start on out the flake that is shared with Teddy Bear’s Picnic. Once established onto the slab, keep working up and right staying on course of Sharing is Caring. Work up the insecure slab to the fun dihedral section. The rock is slick up there!! 

 Belay both climbers up to the 2nd pitch anchors and belay for the 3rd pitch in single pitch fashion. Both climbers get to lead the 3rd pitch and won’t end up crammed up in that small corner at the 3rd pitch anchors. 3 raps to get down.

This route is super classic, some bolted face, long free climbing, some loose junk, a sweet finish and big ledges. Start as for Teddy Bear's picnic.    P1 - move up the huecos and step up into a shallow right-facing corner and then move up and left past a few bolts (10a) on small knobs and belay in a corner.    P2 - climb up and left over a small pinnacle and step down left to a nice ledge (this is a little funky but straight-forward and not hard).    P3 - get your head on and move up, passing on the left side of a huge hollow-sounding flake and into the overhanging section, move right past this (5.9) to belay on a small ledge.    P4 - jam up right in the clean, solid crack for the money pitch of the route (5.8), then follow the chimney to a big ledge.    P5 - two options a) climb straight up the face past bolts and join the wide crack at about mid-pitch b) get right into the big stuff and grunt your way through (both 5.9)  

  Walk off the back side. Beware there is a HUGE white owl living in the top of the chimney next to the P4 belay. If you choose to do the wide start to P5 you'll probably make friend or foe with this spooky avian creature! His pellets are all over the P4 chimney and you could mistake them for bear crap or some other large carnivore...sweet!

Presumably named after the well known Terrebonne restaurant, La Siesta is a worthwhile sport pitch that can provide an alternate start to the multipitch Highway 97 to its right.  The crux comes low and the pitch finishes out with some typical Smith Rock knob pulling.

A separate 5 bolt intro that joins into Coleslaw and Chemicals for the cruxy final 3 bolts. Whereas Coleslaw has a moderate intro to the hard climbing above, The Way Life Goes has difficulties that begin from the first move. Expect fun (subjective) bouldery moves between generally decent holds and insecure feet around the 4th/5th bolt crux. The start checks in around 12+ with the tricky red point crux still waiting above at the last bolt.

This excellent crack at the base of the sweeping Picnic Lunch Wall was at one time the hardest free route at Smith Rock.  Twelve days later, Unfinished Symphony was usurped by the arching Midnight Snack (only a few hundred feet to the left) at 12b/c, but the line remains an enjoyable testpiece for tradsters & history buffs alike. 

  Begin with easy moves up big, incut flakes, and continue with easy stemming.  The difficulty increases with height, as the stems become more awkward and the footholds less secure.  After clipping a fixed angle, an awkward rest is possible in the shallow corner.  The crux hits as the angle kicks back and the offset switches from left-facing to right-facing.  A few key faceholds will prove useful, or jam the flaring pinscars to reach a good ledge at the anchor.

This fine 3 pitch route tops out on the right side of the Picnic Lunch Wall. Most people stop after the first pitch but the increasingly difficult 2nd and 3rd pitches make for a very enjoyable outing.

 Start as for Highway 97:

P1: 5.11b Pockets and knobs up a bolted face. Alternatively, you can start on La Siesta (5.11d) for a slightly more challenging first pitch.

P2: 5.11d More edging and pockets lead up to a final runout traverse.

 Now you're into the actual D.G. pitch:

P3: 5.12c The crux pitch-- climb up the steep final face on a series of very thin pockets.

Appian Way has been described as a "cheap 5.12", as the crux of this route is before the first bolt and can be "toproped" as a part of the lead by stick-clipping the first bolt.  The crux involves a series of strenuous overhung layback moves, moving through 3 separate "layback formations" before reaching easier ground.  Knob and pocket moves in the 5.10 range finish the route but may feel harder than this if you have a pump from the crux moves.

The whole line is pretty sustained the whole way through. The physical crux comes low with a throw to a huge bucket. Technical demands remain high though as the top half turns to balancey, crimpy moves. Anchors seem hard to clip for shorter folk, but if you made it to the top you'll figure it out.

Start up a layback on jugs with bad feet. Then, thug up a severe 20' long boulder problem. Very technical and balancey. Bad footholds, and sideways handholds. Very crimpy.

Start out in the huge honey hued huecos to the right of Teddy Bear. Follow closely spaced bolts up a less than vertical slab on knobs and edges to a bolted anchor.

This is a route that got bolted years ago and has been sitting there untouched since being developed. A very strong, very tall local went up and sussed out the route but ultimately was uninspired to go back to work it. At the time he said he felt the crux was in the double digit range (v10-12 is what i remember him recommending). The route is a 2 pitch route, climbing the first pitch of Sharing is Caring and then into the open project. The second pitch of Sharing is Caring and this route start pretty squeezed together. A few bolts into the start of the open project cut right onto welded tuff holds. Bomber rock. That solidified tuff that's slick to the touch.. Climb through the rad corner/traverse section moving up and right, do a mantel move and enter into the meat of the route. An overhung wide arete with sparse holds. The vision was for the climber to slap and claw up and over this chunk finishing on 5.10-5.11 slab terrain. Sort of a one move wonder working with Really bad holds and a hard mantel over the lip is the feedback I got originally. Not the sustained 100' 5.14 masterpiece I remember my buddy wanting to invest time into. This thing is definitely not that. It is a cool punchy route though that climbs on near perfect rock (Not counting the 1st pitch). There was hardly any cleaning on the whole thing from what I remember, excluding the final lip over moves near the anchors on the softer rock. The hard climbing is on perfect rock. 

Hard and very sustained! This route is a power endurance nightmare. Start on The Big R, but move right after the no hands rest about 40' up. From here, pull through a gnarly v8 to another v8 to get an ok rest crimp. Pull through sustained v7 movement and throw to a gastundercling at the mini roof. Sketch through 5.12+ climbimg to get to the same anchor as The Big R. Very high in the grade, especially after feet have broked.

Five Easy Pieces is a worthwhile adventure on mostly good rock.  With four pitches at 5.12 or harder, it's no gimme, but is generally well protected and is characterized by excellent moves on mostly impeccable rock.  It's worth noting that this route has a lot of drilled holds, (like many routes at Smith) but is super fun to climb anyway. 

  Pitch 1: 13 bolts. Climb the heavily chalked and popular sport pitch.  Instead of stopping where the chalk ends, climb past anchor onto a friable slab and take it to a different anchor at a great ledge. 5.12a 

  Pitch 2: 14 bolts. The crux.  Step left on the ledge and make thin, but generally easy moves up the slab above.  Increasingly difficult sequences interspersed with good rests end in a wild sequence on an overhanging shield of perfect rock.  After clipping the intermediate anchor, commit to the funky crux above. (sadly on the worst rock on the pitch) A yellow-purple TCU sized piece would be handy for dogging this pitch.  If rappelling, descend here. 5.13a 

  Pitch 3: Watts says 9 bolts.  We found more. 10?  It's easy to back clean higher and you'd be psyched to have some long runners on many of the bolts.  Climb directly up off the belay and get established underneath a small overhang.  A crux move getting over the bulge spits you out on a thin slab on beautiful rock.  Traverse left into the obvious weakness. (scary for the follower) Just as the moves ease, the rock turns to total crap for 10' until you get established in the (bolted) hand crack which has surprisingly good rock.  Follow this to an anchor. (Marginal.  5 historical 1/4 inch bolts) 5.12a 

  Pitch 4: 4 bolts.  A short pitch. Watts says it's not any good, but despite a little choss at the start, it's good rock and fun to climb. Follow the bolts up and left to a large ledge. 5.10 

  Pitch 5: 7 bolts.  If this were on the ground, it would get lapped constantly.  There's nothing else at Smith like it.  Steep, bouldery moves off the ledge lead to a thin crux moving through obviously drilled pockets.  As the holds improve, the angle kicks even further back for a couple more bolts of steep, athletic movement and wild positions. 

  Walk down Misery Ridge Trail.

ADMIN NOTE: This line has been freed as of October 2015 at 5.12d. Please do not nail on this pitch anymore. Clean aid, or free climbing only out of respect to those that have now free'd this intense line. 

  Classic steep aid route at Smith, up a proud section of the Picnic Lunch Wall. Still pretty heads up, though there are lots of new bolts. This route has seen many bail probably more than have topped out.   P1 - A2+ - Start below a roof with a hook move. Follow pin scared crack past 3 bolts to botled anchor. I heard this pitch went clean, I still placed 2 beaks and a LA and thought it was heads up.    P2 - 5.6 A2 - Traverse under roof with the ocasional free move. Belay at anchor with tat, and many additional bolts.   P3 - 5.7 A3 - Head up on above the belay on bolts to diheadral, occasinal free move, belay at first set of new anchors.    P4 - A3 - Tricky aid with some bad bolts through the roof. Pass intermidate belay. And belay at brand new beley with rap rings just below edge of the roof.    P5 - 5.6 A2+ - More aid and bolts in diheadral to bolt ladder traverse on ancient bolts. Belay from 3 big new bolts on ledge. 

  Scramble up and off to the right. One tricky move to get off on slab above soft shoe balet. A rope might be nice here if youve got heavy loads, as there are 2 nice new bolts above this section.

The Great Gig in the Sky is the 3rd pitch route sitting above the 2nd pitch route Breathe.This amazing route climbs through bullet-hard tuff. There are 3 crux sections with the hardest one resting a little past midway on the route. Enjoy this thought provoking technical slab, dancing up and around a distinct column feature that hangs down the route. Work into a shallow corner above the large column. Make the hard exit out of the corner moving left to jug flakes. From the rest, work back right. The route finishes on crimps and is full value climbing up until clipping the chains.It’s suggested to belay in single pitch fashion from the anchors of Breathe. This route does NOT top out the Picnic Lunch wall.(The line left of The Great Gig in the Sky is still a closed project. Please do not climb on the fixed draws!)

Start to the right of the bolt line and climb up big holds to the first bolt. At the first bolt traverse left through a somewhat tricky second clip to the base of the half-moon feature where you can get a good rest. From here the climbing gradually increases in difficulty through the next three bolts culminating in a very cool, very thin, crimper crux. Dope!

Spartacus is a quality route, with sustained difficulty and mostly excellent rock.  Begin with an unusual move to a large fang.  Undercling the fang and move left to a good sloper.  Mantle the subtle ledge, then up to killer knobs under the shallow roof.  Moving past this roof & the third bolt is the crux.  A pair of good edges up & left lead to a vertical slot in a shallow seam, and a few more tenous moves to get established above the roof.   

  Once above the roof, continue up rounded flakes & quintessential Smith knobs, past a few large pockets towards the top of the wall.  The rock deteriorates substantially near the top.  Several fractured blocks guard the finishing mantle.

The 700ft. tall Picnic Lunch Wall strikes a commanding pose over the Crooked River as one descends the trail down from the parking lot.  The Picnic Lunch Wall is flanked by the Red Wall on the right and the Shiprock on the left. 

  Despite its height and presence, the rock quality is generally sub-par compared to other areas.  Nonetheless, there are some quality climbs to be found.  There are a handful of worthy multipitch routes although many are loose fright-fests.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall