A cool route up the north face of Vortex dome that finishes on one of the most spectacular ledge systems in the Stronghold. The rock on this route goes between being good to being pretty bad so if you are not into grains and crunchies then probably avoid this route. That being said the climbing is fun and provides a bit of an adventurous feel, a far cry from other SA routes such as Endgame. All belays are bolted and all bolts are bomb.

 P1- Climb into the first crack system to the left of Clean and Wing. It is a left leaning system that deposits you on a long sloping ledge protected by bolts. A 30' traverse across this ledge deposits you at the anchors. P2- Cool steep crack climbing off the belay takes you to a short traverse right at the end of the crack and then slabby face climbing passed 2 bolts and easier climbing to the belay. Steep! P3- Beautiful rock leads to a bolt and a boulder problem off the belay then easy climbing to gain the ledge system. Once you get to the ledge it will be tempting to stay there for the rest of the day! Soak in the views of Whats my Line and take a shady nap.

 Rappel the route in 3 raps.

DNF (Direct North Face aka Does Not Finish)

The Vortex

Beckey Route

A cool route that gains a badass summit. The first pitch is just ok and a bit contrived but the rest of the route features fun climbing with great views. Pitch 2 is awesome with some great bolted slab. Pitch 3 has one bolt off the anchor and then its groove climbing to the top. You'll top out the 3rd pitch and see one more 5.easy pitch to the summit area.

1. Starts on S SW side of the formation.    First pitch goes up some low angle rock to a bolt about 35 ft up.  Clip the bolt and move left to another bolt.  Move up, get the nuts out and cinch em on the 3/8 inch original bolts from the FA.  Bring lots of slings on this pitch as it will zig zag a bit.  Belay on ledge. (.10) 

  2. Move belay up to another ledge about 20 ft up. There is an old anchor bolt that could be backed up. 

  3.  Great technical pitch, the crux is short but a little spicy pulling .11 moves on ancient bolts.  Climb past the bolts and run it out on low angle slab to the summit.  .11 

  There are new rap bolts on the summit.  The route can be aided but it is recommended to free the route. 

  2 rope rap

Free standing formation between WML and Rockfellow group.  The vortex offers an awesome summit with great views of the stronghold.  From the info I gathered, Fred Beckey climbed this many years back and left some historical hardware on the tower.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Vortex Tower