Starting where Fist Crack takes off, go right above the cave to first bolt. Matching hands in the small “coin slot” at eye level, traverse right to the bolt. Finish on the trophy hold to the chains.

Coin Slot

Fist Crack

Swordfish

Unnamed Crack

Face Off

Pointless Wonder

Cave Dweller

The Butt Grab

The obvious fist-sized crack in the corner.

This line is right of Face Off and uses those anchors. Start to the right of the cave and climb up to thin cracks.

Just to the right of the three main routes at 5.8 Sanctuary is Pointless Wonder, and "Unnamed 5.6" is just right of it.

 This is not a route for a new trad leader, as it is on sketchy limestone. It's not really a route for anyone except a trad climber desperate to place gear in an area swarming with bolts. The rock is weak, some of the placements are questionable, and the top-out and belay are a mess. But for some reason, I've done this route twice now, lol. And it provides an opportunity to use a coveted Black Totem if you have one!

 The finish is brushy and dirty, and then you have to fight through brush to set up a belay off trees. Lots of fun. Fortunately, you can lower your second and then crash through a little more brush to reach a trail that takes you back down.

 Although my two ascents in the spring of 2018 are the only two lead ascents of which I know, I'm not claiming an FA on this because someone had probably at least free soloed it already. But if I ever find out I did do the FA, then I might name it "Really Pointless Wonder."

 My 5.6 rating is an estimate; I can see reasonable people calling it either 5.5 or 5.7.

This is the only bolted route on the wall, so you use it to set the anchor for the other lines. You'll find the first bolt just over the lip of the cave which will protect the first hard move. 

  The physical start to get over the cave is the crux.

A few yards right of the other routes here, there is a crack system. The larger crack on the left is, I would say, Class 4 and makes an easy way to get to the top and set topropes for the other routes. The thinner crack on the right is Pointless Wonder. In the guidebook, it is 5.4, but just about everyone who gets on it thinks it is easier.

 Going to the effort to set up a TR for Pointless Wonder probably is pointless; it feels much easier than many other 5.4 routes I have climbed.

 However, it is a rare Greenbelt route that will take trad gear. Stoppers work pretty well on this one, and thus it is decent for learning to place stoppers while having very little chance of falling.

Start on a cheat stone and pull around the large boulder. Traverse right staying low until the first cave bowl. Go up and over to the next cave at 2 o'clock. Span the gap and stay high to the next cave bowl under Face Off. Down climb and continue to the next cave bowl. Stay low and pull the side edge traversing to the start of Pointless Wonder. Continue traversing low to the small Cedar Elm tree (tree is on for V0, off for V1). Continue traversing another 20 feet to the last cave bowl that has choss and the bottom lip is about 24 inches off the ground. 

Start matched on ledge facing the creek bed. Traverse right along the bottom of the ledge and up to a decent hold below the top boulder. Then comes the crux; swimming around the arete of the boulder using the low bulge and possible "butt grab" to free up the hands to move up the crack and to a nice juggy top out.

The 5.8 Sanctuary is an oft-overlooked small wall with just a few routes. The rock quality is excellent. 

  Its proximity to Seismic Wall makes it a good spot to check out if you find Seismic to be too busy.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 5.8 Sanctuary