This is the bolted line immediately right of Non Dairy Screamer.  A hard, excellent, pumpy route.  Well Bolted.  Chain Anchor.  To top rope it, rappel down from the huge steel rings on top of the wall.

Ashes Ashes All Fall Down

Non-Dairy Screamer

Presidente

Aid Route

Thank God

Stars and Stripes

Debutante

Cerebral Palsy (Barber Route)

Non-Dairy Screamer is the bolted line two to the right of Thank God (11d). It is a wandering route with many crux traverses and littered with good rests. 

  Some of the bolts are spaced on this rig. Some of the bolts are also extremely rusted out and may not want to be fallen on. 

  The original grade of this was 5.11d, but due to broken holds and consensus were proposing 5.12a/- 

  If you get good conditions, and climb it in the shade it feels on point, in the sun however it may feel harder.

Begin at Debutante and follow up to second belay stance.    Pitch 1: Just right of the large right-facing dihedral start by oak trees. Climb thin corner (5.4) to a narrow shelf then traverse left 10' Climb up past a flake and move up a bottoming crack to a belay ledge.   Pitch 2: Climb up right across a slab to the base of a left-facing corner and below a lichen-covered pillar. Climb up the cracks in the corner (5.10a) past a bolt to the summit belay.

Aid Route starts with two bolts going over a small overhanging face into a thin finger and hand crack to the top. Two bolts protect the initial face climbing...which honestly feels way harder than typical 5.11a face climbing. Possibly broken like everything in the dells.

Good route in the middle of the the High Rappel Dell, you start on the obvious pillar 5.8 or 5.9 depending on what side you start on. From the top of the pillar go past three bolts and into some discontinuous cracks to a two bolt anchor.

Shares the first 3 bolts with Non Dairy Screamer, then continues straight up to a chain anchor.  Tom Cecil was one of several great climbers that were putting up hard routes in the Dells in the late 80s.  Their crew included Leo Henson, Paul Peterson, and John Govi.  This thing is hard, and rarely gets climbed.  It can be top roped by rappelling down from the huge steel rings on top of the cliff.  Not sure if all the bolts are currently in place.  Check before leading.

Best High Rappel Beginner Climb-keeps any leader interested. 

  Pitch 1: Just right of the large right-facing dihedral start by oak trees. Climb thin corner (5.4) to a narrow shelf then traverse left 10' Climb up small chimney to tiny ledge, step back onto face (Crux, 5.5) clip old bolt and continue up crack to belay ledge with Fixed/Glued Piton.  

  Pitch 2: Step up slab from belay and follow easy cracks to the summit slabs.  

  EDIT: Follow the EASY crack system that starts above small slab on the upper-left of belay, dihedral to the right is a .10a variation (Presidente).

This is a good trad line on the right side of the main wall. Though it has a couple bolts, don't expect anything less than heads up climbing. Look for a glue-in bolt, climb to that and prepare yourself for some cranking on okay gear. I had a purple BD cam I think sticking straight out, and I also slung the obvious flake... Move up the ramp to 2nd bolt then up a flared hand crack to the belay.

New light has been shed on the history of the bolts (see comments). Given that Hot Henry Barber was known for incredibly bold ascents he may have lead it on gear. The first bolt is an unsanctioned retro bolt. None the less climbing a Barber route is always exciting.

This is the right side of the Main Wall at the High Rappel which starts at Debutante, the large offset chimney and ends at the right side of the cliff. The High Rappel is named after the large steel rings at the top of the highest, steepest wall on this side.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall Right