The defining moment of this climb is pulling the tricky, bouldery roof that you'll encounter halfway up.  The protection is good for the crux, but the 15 feet of slab afterwards might have you feeling a little nervous.  Starting at a head high block at the base of the crag, mantle up then follow a thin crack and face holds up to a ledge.  Traverse left for 15 feet beneath the roof until you can get into the handcrack with a small tree above.  Use whatever trickery you can to get over the roof and onto the face and low angle slab above.  Follow the slab up to another ledge beneath the 2nd roof, then climb the crack and flakes to the top.

Crack to Nowhere

Overhanging Corner

Seaver's Direct

Double Crutch

Seaver's Folly

Overhanging Corner Direct

Overhanging Corner Right

Finger Lichen Good

Overhanging Coronary

Alive and Kicking

Wanting to work on your footwork?  Do you like climbs with an early crux?  Step on up.  Starting beneath the rusty bolt with a short overhang, surmount the overlap to stand up on the face above.  Climb straight up towards the left end of the first roof and aim for the slab with a left arching crack.  Follow the slab up and slightly right until you're at the second ledge.  Move right to the tree and the crack through the big roof and finish as for Crack to Nowhere.

Use the same start as Seaver's Direct.  Climb face, step off right to a ledge, and traverse right to the overhanging corner.

Ascend face to a break in the roof with a crack in it.

Climb a steep crack to a horizontal crack heading out left to the edge.

Start at base of the thin crack running up the slab and follow the crack to a sloping stance below the roof. Step right and up into the wide crack at the base of the roof. Traverse right until the crack ends at a small shelf jutting out under the roof and mantle up. Finish up the easy slab to a large tree.

Make a long reach over a low bulge and "struggle to get standing" (1995), then top out via O.C.

Head up right of O.C.D. to a block.  Traverse 10 feet left, under Overhanging Coronary, to the corner and the end.  

Ascend Overhanging Corner Direct to an awkward stance under a roof, which is a jutting block split by a crack.  Out this to the summit.

At the right end of the wall and tucked into its own little alcove, this route follows prominent features to tackle a short roof that might prove to be exciting for some.  Start to the right of the corner and traverse left on the large horizontal until a flake diagonals up and right.  Follow the flake out the roof to its end and mantle up onto the somewhat scruffy face above.  Finish up the face slightly left to the trees.

Rising up behind the Trailside boulders beside North Marsh, the Lower Cliff is mostly overlooked and rarely climbed despite having a great collection of cracks and roofs.  The crag catches sun for most of the day along with the boulders, although suffers from seepage and runoff from the hillside above after a rain.  At its highest point on the left side, the cliff is roughly 60'.  Grades range from 5.5 to 5.11 and there is still potential for a few new climbs alongside classics like Seaver's Folly and the Crack to Nowhere.  Chances are you'll have the crag to yourself (or you'll have to share with the spiders).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Cliff