Up vertical hand-and-finger crack to downward-pointing roof, up and over to rewarding offwidth, veering left at top to bolted rap anchor.

Penguin Cafe

Mandric- direct start

Mandric

Fluoridation

Lock, Stock, and Barrel

Lock Tight

Frogger

Gortlough RA

OW left of Pac-Man

X- Wing

Pac Man

Whips & Chains

Precious Bodily Fluids

Lizard Lips

Clean, left-leaning dihedral.  Direct start (11b) goes up corner on right through a wide section with poor feet and joins the regular route at white ramp.   Continue up corner (10c)

Shared anchors with Mandric Direct and Auto Bond.

Climb the ramp to the left facing corner and move through the roof.  A directional is recommended to reduce swings.

I did not lead this route but you'll need a range of small finger sized gear to a #3.  I suspect doubles at #.75 and #1 will be useful.

This route climbs the left leaning fingers to hands then back to fingers crack with a bouldery sequence up higher.  Expect a little bit of munge if climbing this early season.  The anchor is one rusty 5/16 button with an SMC hanger,  back it up with directionals or bring a bolt kit and slam in a new anchor.

Climb up the outside of a spectacular arete past one bolt (crux) to a big jug. Scamper up easier territory to the summit.

Thin crack up the center of the second tier above the main Murphy Creek wall. Crux on first crack. Second easier crux at the end off a small ledge.

Sustained double fist crack on quailty granite.

The name says it all, its like playing leep frog up the crack.

An OW-sized crack that demands very little actual OW technique, this climb boasts a surprising amount of hand jams and much wide stuff can be circumnavigated with stemming and face holds. Cheating, I know.

Large blocks are split on either side by essentially two cracks, so choose your path according to your strengths, but you should probably wind up by finishing on the crack on the right side because the anchors are located there.

perhaps doable without mandatory OW moves, but the heal-toe jams are decent enough.

Two starts (left one might be 5.7; right maybe 5.6); Righthand start is 20' left of Frogger and follows obvious white protuding dike.  Left is just straight up.  Either way, climb to vertical section in darker rock (crux).

25' left of X-Wing; basically, the vertical double crack system; goes through a wider pod about halfway (it is NOT the left-leaning wide crack just to the left)

This OW crack is in an alcove around the corner from "Coyote's Carelessness" arete. Yes, this is an off-width climb.

Short little seam crack on the far left side of the cliff

Toprope near the left edge of Guppie Wall (just right of a high point in the ramp/ledge)

Reachy face to crack/seam that begins in little roof ~10' off the deck.

Crack is flared and bottoms out

Description

Protection

Routes in Murphy Creek