This is a well-protected route with thin and pumpy moves! I would say the crux could be 12a 4-5 bolts up! It has some good moves that require good liebacks up into a solid finish!

A Full Dazed Work (not Coronas and Lime)

Wake of The Red Witch

Citadel

Unknown

Roll the Bones

Rapunzel, Rapunzel

Let Down Your Hair

This is route 2 on the topo (shown for

Rapunzel, Rapunzel

).  It starts up over blocky holds with liebacks, solid edges and a crack up top.  This is a cool, well-bolted route (8 bolts) with good exposure.

Work up easy terrain clipping two bolts below the overhang. Try not to pull off any huge blocks onto your belayer's head, especially before you clip the second bolt. Climb consistent, easy 5.12 through 3 bolts to a no hands rest ledge. Clip the high bolt on the slab, and continue up consistent, 11+/12- slab on crimps and lichen slopers to the chains.

The route has some serious choss at the beginning, even during the crux, and it seems like it never gets climbed. It has very cool moves. This is not a give away 5.12 as you have to try hard all the way til the end. There is one good rest on the slab in a big flake.

This is a good route with fun moves. Start with feet on the broken/crumbly base of the tower (foot holds might break off). If you start closer to

A Dazed Work

, then it's a little easier and the rock seems a bit more solid (make sure you traverse right after). The first clip is somewhat taxing (stick clip isn't a bad idea if this is your limit). The rest of the route is very well bolted. The crux comes about 25 feet off the ground when moving over the obvious bulge using the crack. Generally, the holds are very solid and the moves are big. This route might be a little more difficult for shorter people. Make sure you stay to the right, as the features seem to make you want to move left.

The last 1/3 of the climb (once you get to the big crack system) is easier in comparison. If the rock quality was better (particularly at the base) and the difficulty stayed more consistent, this route would definitely be four stars. This is a great one nonetheless.

This is a long, sustained climb on the backside of the Citadel.  The rock is pretty decent but needs to clean up a a bit.  It seems like it never gets climbed, as there is lichen all over it and no chalk after the start.  The steep beginning is the crux - pull through it and you get a no hands ledge to contemplate the rest of the route.  After that, it's very consistent and sustained 11+ ish to the top.

This is a fine, recreational route on a prominent formation at The Palace. It has big holds and is well-bolted (11 bolts). This is worth the hike.

This is a one move wonder to the left of

Repunzel Repunzel

. It is fun if you are hanging out belaying on the front of the Citadel.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Citadel