This is the high start to Mad Bush (V12). Start from the high right facing rail. The route mostly boils down to a reachy lock-off move.

Firebelly

The Rail

Rimjob

Slice of Cake Direct

Grouchies

Alcove Left

Fun House Stairway

Musk

The Hesitator

Ouchies

Slice of Cake

Rubb Dyno

Alcove Right

Slice of Pie

Alcove Center

Alcove Dyno

Frosting

Joel's Jump Start/Sandy Man

The Fin

Alfalfa or Spanky?

Phatness

The Shityourpantsinator

Rainbow

Tree Crack

Start in a crouched position crimping a rail in the small cave created by slice of pie and another small boulder. Traverse left out of the rail and use a small right-handed hand jam for a 10 foot top out. Awesome and funky little boulder problem. V0 if stemming is used with the overhanging roof (i.e. slice of pie boulder face)

A good v0 that follows the arete feature just right of Fun House Stairway. This is often done when the climber realizes that Fun House Stairway is the biggest sandbag in Leavenworth, and generally results in much needed success.

Good rock, safe fall, easy walk off.

The original Slice of Cake was a classic sandbagged V3 that started on a large flake that has since broken off. This route, listed as a project in the guidebook, climbs directly into the original line. Beta I have seen starts with a tiny left hand gaston and a right hand thumb press, then moves to another gaston before hitting the obvious good edge.

Start seated with low right hand sidepull and left on a sloper below the right hand. Climb up, following the seam and optionally some crimps out left, topping out directly above on slopers.

A stand start uses the good high right hand sidepull and left crimp. Pull through the slopers and top out. V3ish. Probably a better climb than the sit.

Start matched on the same jug as alcove center and move left to the arete and up.

So-called "classic" climbs are often hard for the grade. I won't speculate why, but FHS definitely falls in this category. You'll have to earn your single point on this one.

That said, it has cool open-handed holds, tensiony moves, is safe, and climbs exceptionally well. I highly recommend this problem.

Start seated on crimps, and climb straight up through the sloping shelves to the good lip, and rockover at about ten feet.

Demanding face climbing on super thin holds with a big move to better holds and a simple top out.

Ah, another memorable Barney's climb. Start on slab, and feel good about yourself when you reach the sloping, chill out ledge about 8 feet off the ground. Then start feeling kind of uncomfortable. It's easy to stay on the ledge, since it's huge, but there don't seem to be many holds above you. You may hesitate to commit to whatever funked-up sequence you have to use to snag the good lip above.

(Excessively tall people will find this easier. For full value, be under 6 feet tall).

Sit start matched on the chalked sidepull crimp rail thing down and slightly to the left. More side pull crimping takes you to an interesting sloper top out. Exit right. Movement is fun, some (maybe most) of the holds are sharp. A problem with many different options and many different betas.

For the full grade avoid dabbing on the boulder behind you.  Subtract and grade and a star if you stem for the top out.

A great boulder that is characterized by the committing "v3" moves about 15 feet up. It changed significantly in character a few years ago when the easy start holds (formed by a large plate) broke off. Now you have to do v7-ish boulder start to get up to the fun move up high.

The original route without the plate-breakage was a 4 star line. With the breakage below, it's probably worth 3 stars. The lower moves aren't anything to write home about, but the upper section has maintained character, and is worth grimacing through the mini crimps below.

Start crouched with a good hold in the seam at waist height. Climb up and right on crimps. Either dyno off crimps to the flat edge on the arete, or use your thumbs to go static to the arete.

Start martched on the lower rightmost side-pull of the three side-pulls that are to the right of the jug rail. Move up to a gaston or crimp, then drive-by to the jug. Quite a fun move.

The guidebook says to start on the higher rightmost side-pull and crimp. In my opinion, the slightly lower start is more fun because it adds 1-2 moves to an otherwise 3 move problem.

Starts in a large hueco and moves right into a good crack. Commit to crossing with your left hand into the last hold in the crack, hike your right foot way high onto the good hold out right and commit!!

Start on the sloping shelf, either heel hook or burl your way to the jug, hit the crack with your left hand, a crimp with your right then do a high step to top out. The easier variation of Alcove Dyno

Start matched on the flat shelf, dyno up and right to a jug and top out.

An obvious rail that starts easy and stays easy, but gets tall! Probably the least committing and scary of the easy 20 foot tall boulders at BR. I'm a little embarrassed that I never noticed it before the new guidebook came out, since it's so obvious and so good.

Strange but unique one move wonder right next to The Fin. An odd jump start in the middle of the face to a tall sloper. The sloper on the lip in the middle is the target, not the bigger holds in the seam to the left. Running and jumping helped me for this height dependent dyno. Hold the sloper and then head up to the right facing corner on top.

No idea about the grade but felt easier then guidebook listed v8 but probably harder then v6. For its sheer dynamic strangeness v7?

Down on the beach area of Barney's Rubble. This squat little boulder features a curving polished Fin of nice granite. Start as low as possible (sand fluctuates as well as water in the landing area) squeezing with hands and feet on the Fin. A cool knob and more squeezing lead up to cool holds and a fun rock over move to top out. Crux is getting off the ground and up to better holds and footholds that allow you to pop to a good hold below the lip.

Awesome dihedral climbing with 2 distinct beta options. I won't give too much away on this one. Start on a flat hold under the dihedral and figure out your way up with a leftward finish on incut jugs above the corner. Great rock.

The squat slab on the left side of the Hesitator boulder.

Not a lot of moves, but it's one of the easier and least committing things in the area, and actually pretty fun.

Climb straight up the slab and slightly to the right with small crimps and grainy nubbins for feet. Start with a big edge for feet. Climb a cryptic series of crimps and technical high-steps until you reach one final sketchy step-up to reach the jug-lip.

Rainbow vies for the best climb under v4 in Leavenworth. It is so named because it follows an obvious arcing lip that reaches 20 feet above the ground.

It goes from left to right, and starts on some pinches on the arete. The start is kind of tricky, and is insecure enough to get your heart pumping. Once established on the lip, the angle of the holds is better, so it's basically jugs the rest of the way. However, the feet are essentially just smears, and it travels over a deep pit with a rocky ramp below.

Depending on your courage level, you can traverse this for a surprisingly long way. It is not uncommon to turn over the lip as soon as humanly possible, but the lip is good for a long way, and the brave will be rewarded.

A crack climb behind the tree on the Hesitator boulder. Good climbing, great rock, and it's a bit insecure. A good climb, and you won't regret doing it.

Description

Location

Routes in Barney's Rubble