Pitch 1 -  Climb a museum-quality bolt ladder up the face and into a chimney finishing at a semi-hanging belay. This pitch is a bolting history lesson complete with buttonheads, star drive-ins, 30 year old 1/4 inch machine bolts etc... (C1)

Pitch 2 -Continue up the mud chimney past an old ring angle climbing mostly free. When the chimney pinches down, work up to the right onto dirty ledges. From here, the route traverses up and right on the dirty ledges until you are below another obvious chimney. Aid a small bulge using an old fixed pin and continue up the easy chimney to a bolted anchor. (5.4 R, C1)

Pitch 3 -  Scramble along the top of the tower to the gap that separates you from the summit. (4th class)

Pitch 4 -  Rappel 25 feet into the notch and climb out the other side via a chimney which pinches down to offwidth at the top. (5.8 or C1)

Descent:  Reverse the Route.

North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-Merrill)

Rasta Wall

The Flow

P1- Obvious splitter beak crack to tension traverse to another beak crack.  There is a loose flake with some big swing potential.  Go up through two roofs, then up C1/2 crack to two bolt anchor in alcove.  One new bolt added to anchor to replace old POS bolt.  Need small gear to supplement anchor, we used a beak and a small angle. 140'

P2- Head out the TCU roof into mud crack above.  Pitch will likely go all free at some point, potentially hard 5.11.  Definitely will go all clean on next ascent. End at hanging belay, one new 3/8 by 3.5" bolt added to belay to augment dilapidated anchors/leeper hangers. 60'

P3- Stellar beak/ small gear seam up the vertical to slightly overhanging face.  One rivet on pitch, a new rivet was placed adjacent to it.  This was the only rivet mentioned in the original topo so the only one replaced. One 3/8 by 3.5" and one 3/8 by 1.5 bolt added to belay to replace old bolts.

P4- Beak seam to great C1 wideness with wild roof moves, one 3/8 by 1.5" bolt added to anchor.  There were rivets on this pitch not mentioned in the original topo, so none were replaced and are old and moderately suspect.

P5- Easy free climbing leads to summit.

Descent - Rap the route

Hike around the tower from a road 1.9 miles north of the fishers turnoff.  You will head up on a ridge on the south side of the tower and then hike around the prow to the north side where the route starts.

P1-Fun free climbing leads to a series of bolts that intersperse free moves(5.8 C1).

P2-C1 crack to a bolt ladder (13 or so rivet hangers) You will also need some blue aliens, a set o' aliens, and cams up to 3 inches (C1).

P3-Bolt ladder to the left(3bolts)then enters a crack that gets up to 4.5".

P4-C1 or free climbing to the summit.  Our clean ascent went up left up to a couple of roofs and then tensioned left to an offwidth(unprotected).  You can also free climb up and right from the belay.  Aliens(green, yellow, blue) helpful in addition to other cams

Description

Protection

Routes in River Tower