This is a tiny, but highly entertaining little pitch on the southwest corner of the small buttress that protrudes from the left half of the cliff. It starts just left of the obvious wide crack in the center of the cliff (Dave With His Pants Down). Climb a pair of seams up to a right-arching undercling flake. Load the undercling up with gear then devise a way up and out left around the corner to where you can eventually reach around into a finger and hand crack that angles further around to the left and the top of the buttress. The crux is the thin, thought-provoking face climbing en route to the reacharound. Belay from the top of the buttress, and a scrappy traverse off to the left gets you back to the ground.

This pitch was established yo-yo style from the ground up; it has since been onsighted. Its barely over 40 feet long so if you have a fundamental problem with short pitches, you might want to try something else.

Reacharound

Dave With His Pants Down

Chlamydial Meat Pie

This excellent crack pitch is located in the center of the south face of the crag.  Climb the steep fist crack, stemming off the small buttress forming the corner.  After 25' of fisting, the crack opens up for the crux.  The crux is 2 or 3 body lengths of meat and potatoes arm barring.  At this point the crack changes to hands and thin hands for the last 15'.  Belay on the ledge to the right (natural anchor).

This is the crack pitch on the far right side of the south face. The crack ends just before the top and a single bolt protects the unfinished moves to the summit. For those of us that can't climb 5.13 slab, this pitch is a great 10+ crack to a single bolt anchor. For anyone up to the challenge, the moves past the bolt have yet to be done even on toprope.

The crack provides excellent steep finger and hand jamming on great rock with equally great protection

Description

Protection

Routes in Common Courtesy Crag