Blankish face left of

Bad Boys from Detroit

.

At least a full grade harder.

Has anyone repeated it?

Laker Girls

Elsa's Lieback

Atom Ant

Poison Oak Crack

Eppy Birthday

Double Scoop

Cast of a Thousand Stones

Starving In Stereo

Go With The Flow

High on the Hog

Welcome to Rubidoux

Cool Jerk

Golden Medallion

Skid Row

Elsa's Crack

Deport Jonny Forever

Monkey Business

Big Grunt

Werner's Wish

Hairdo

Monkey Crack

Bad Boys from Detroit

Big Squeak

Slap You Silly

Fade to Black

Airplane Crack

Deport Jonny (aka Jonny Go Home)

Blue Collar

go up the wide crack, then left across the finger traverse.

Lieback the right arête of the large chimney.

This popular and moderate off width is a fun climb. The crux comes toward the bottom of the climb were the off width is a little akward. As you get higher the crack narrows and the angle backs off.

Start under a mini flake/roof (3") and edge, smear and crimp your way up the face.

Start the climb on the obvious cheat stone start.  Try not to knock any blocks off.  Reach up into the underclings and pull on.  Traverse right using strength or trickery, lie back and stand up to an awkward rest.  Next, bust out across the glass face using the seam (crux), use the broken section above the seam to head straight up or continue across the seam to escape out right.

Yet another very good thin right leaning tips crack.  Past the Poison Oak Crack at the left turning switchback on the right facing east, one can see the upper half of this route.  One of first 5.12s at Mt. Woodson

This outstanding route is on the right hand side of the road, past Poison Oak Crack and the large square aid bolder.  Starting via cheatstones, there is a 10+ barndoor entry move to a few slightly easier moves, then a series of hard sequential moves up the orange water streak to finish.  Highly recommended

On the south face of the Big Grunt boulder.  This route traverses up the obvious horizontal ramp.  Clip the first two bolts of Cool Jerk then traverse out right following the bolt line.  Crux comes at the third bolt which is hard to clip.  IMO, PG-13 for the awkward clips with potential for a swinging falls.  Pull powerful, then thin moves to the rings.

This is a longer route than most on Woodson so make sure you have a rope that is long enough.  Not your "Woodson rope."

Technical crimping/edging on superb, bullet hard rock, followed by a brilliant 90 degree arete.

The bottomless left arete is the obvious objective, and therein lies the problem, getting to the arete.  Start a couple feet left of Slap You Silly.  A hard pull on sharp crimps gives access to a left traverse across the face on patina edges.  From the large foot edge at the end of the traverse move up, then left to the obvious stance at the base of the arete.  From here one can finally do the stellar arete.

Long problem with sustained moves, feels more like a route than a bouldering problem.  The real problem isn't so much individual move difficulty as much as linking everything together.  The sharp holds have a tendancy to chew one up after a few tries.

The arete is superb.  To just do it by itself (maybe 12a), it's well worth pulling up past the edging to the stance at the base of it and going from there.

You kind of had to have been involved in the Woodson/Rubidoux skirmishes during the late 70's - early 90's to understand the name.

On the left side of the road across from the Poison Oak Crack, one will see a giant boulder with a couple of steep sport routes on the face. The boulder itself is split into two via a superwide crack known as Big Grunt.  This sport route runs up the center of this steep and super thin south face.

Stand start with right hand on crimp and left on low sidepull/undercling, climb up to the dish then to crimps above it, dyno or reach to the top, easy mantel.

Stay right for the left hand/foot match.  Easier problems exhist staying/starting left.

Perfect tight hand crack on not too steep rock.  The crux is the start as it's the narrowest jamming / steepest.  Still a very moderate climb.  Beautiful intro to hand jamming.

Do the opening moves of the standard Deport Jonny problem.  Instead of moving a little left from the flake, go right a couple of moves and proceed more or less straight up from there.  Sharp crimps and a couple of cool side-pull moves. At the top, refrain from joining the regular problem (not forced to do so) for a problem that is completely independent except for the opening couple of moves.   Good problem.

It is also possible to go straight up from the top of the opening flake.  This is almost like a third problem, and just like where it lies it is also rating wise (11+) between the other two.

A nice boulder on excellent rock. Start in the jug layback flake, move up to the horizontal edge and mantle.

Big Grunt starts at the bottom of the obvious split in this large boulder (foreground) which sits atop Lunch Rock. A squeeze chimney start leads you to easier chimneying and eventually to the top.

Facing the POC go around right and down to see the start of this route.  A fingers traverse leads right, around the corner and up a steep crack.

On the left side of the road across from the Poison Oak Crack, one will see a giant boulder with a couple of steep sport routes on the face.  The boulder itself is split into two via a superwide crack known as Big Grunt.   This route uses the the first two bolts of Cool Jerk and swings right then up.

Short crack with a very overhanging start and a big reach.  Tape gloves are helpful with the upper off-hands section.  You will have a lot of weight on your arms on this one.

Overhung start/offwidth! similar to big grunt, but shorter and has an awkward constriction, which mixes it up, requires some different techniques. Fun and worth a burn. Sit start for more of a challenge.

Desperate smearing and slapping your way up the blunt arete.  Use tricky smears and slopers to "bear hug" your way up.  Feels like an OW to climb.

Overhanging seam. It climbs better than appearances suggest.

A rare moderate finger crack/flake on the Starving in Stereo boulder, opposite side facing north.  Good TR for beginner/novice.

This face route is on the righthand side of the road immediately past the Poison Oak Crack behind the oak trees.     The route faces south and starts with a right leaning rail.  Crux comes near the top.

Stand start at undercling, move more or less directly up face on sidepulls and crimps. Mantle

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Poison Oak Boulder Area